How do you like the Hitachi saw vs the echo n stihl balance power?
I found the Hitachi/Tanaka saws to be heavy and a little under-powered, compared to the Stihl and Echo tophandle saws. They start and run fine, are well built and reliable, and are not expensive. I was using them for cutting up brush on the ground, and a guy that I had helping me out on a big job this past summer liked them so much that he bought them both off of me. I cut everything up into firewood on the jobsite (and even split it there, most of the time) and the brush gets cut up into kindling. Only stuff that is under 1.5" goes into my small chipper (it's a 3.5" chipper, but I don't usually put anything that big into it, as I'd rather burn wood than make mulch/chips). For this reason, I have a few small saws that I use on the ground, and I happen to prefer tophandle ones.
In the tree, I prefer the MS-150T, MS-201T and the Echo CS-271T saws. I also like the little Echo on the ground, so I'm going to buy another one of those. I will mention something I've said before... the Echo is by far and away the most reliable of those when it is hot outside. It will cut for hours on end and if you shut it off, it will start right back up, even when it is 100+ degrees F outside. None of the other tophandle saws do that. They want to die when you let off the throttle, not start back up, etc. when it's hot out. If you retune them, then you have to do it again if the temperature is only in the 80's the next day. The Echo seems to have better torque than the MS-150T and it's really noticeable when delimbing and cutting brush up on the ground for a couple of hours or so.
The MS-150T, when it's not hot out, runs great. It is easily the most snappy one and just a joy to operate. Weight and balance are wonderful, and it fits places where the Echo gets a little unwieldly and awkward. The carving bar/chain are perfect for it, especially when you have to whack off small stuff that is in tight crotches. Some folks seem to think this little pruning saw must be gimpy on stuff over 3" but it certainly is not. I don't switch to the 201 until I get into stuff over 8" and on a number of occasions I've dropped stuff where the tip of the little 12" bar was barely visible. Mine has muffler mod and timing advance, which really makes them more zippy.
The hot weather problem affects all of my saws, to varying degrees, except for two Echo saws and the M-tronic Stihl saws. I have two Mtronic MS-261C-MQ saws that I have always thought were the best all around midsize saws, since the day I bought the first one. Perfect for in the tree, with its slim profile and light weight, and plenty of power. And, none of that *B-S.... with it not running right when the weather changes. I've heard so much of that
"I prefer not to use them thar newfangled, electronical type, cornpooterized saws!" crap that I'm convinced these people have no idea what tree work is like. You need saws that cut, and to do that they need to be running. A jobsite isn't a beer-guzzling, hillbilly session for turning fact into fiction, and fiction into fact. There's no extra time during the day allocated for screwing with carburator adjustments and exhausting yourself trying to get stubborn saws started. The only time I've had a MS-261C-MQ saw disappoint me was when I forgot to bring it with me.
An M-tronic version of the MS-150T and MS-201T would be really nice. I've started putting money away. In the meantime, it's another CS-271T saw I'll pick up this week. Not expensive, very reliable.... and they run when it's very hot outside.
The Hitachi/Tanaka saws, by the way, can't be run for more than about 30 minutes before they overheat and quit. No matter what the temperature is. Not usually a big problem, because most people don't run a tophandle saw for half an hour straight. I do that cutting up brush, though, so it's something to consider. This problem is well documented in dozens of online reviews of the saws.