Stihl MS 461 Rev limiting

[Fitz]

Does anyone know or have advice on a device or way to limit the 461's full throttle RPM via the throttle vs the Rev limiter?

For example: for brushing, it would be nice to have the saw max out its RPMS around 9500-10000 instead of hitting the rev limiter constantly.

 

[huskihl]

Just don’t pull the trigger as far

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Set your H needle 1 turn out? From were its at now.

 

[Michpatriot]

I went a little different way on the same problem..Man I like my 461s without the limited coil..that's where unlimited really shines when limbing. Ill never go back to limited. Give my high speed adjustment knob a twist and run it at 14k for limbing then give the knob a twist back and buck with it four strokin nice.

 

[Fitz]

Thanks guys for the advice. Michpatriot, that's a solid setup. I think I'm going to give that route a shot. I might also somehow add/rig-up a limiting screw for the butterfly valve. I know it sounds trivial, but at times we are running our saws screaming for hours at max RPM just cutting brush. I want to experiment with a saw that is tuned for best performance on the H but limit the max RPM on the fly. That way I can make quick changes going from brush to timber. This is all just for testing purposes. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Michpatriot]

So if your interested shoot me a pm..using one of my kits makes it pretty easy to set the upper rpm on the fly. The kit is $25 and is pretty straightforward, and if you decide to get a coil there's at least two different ones that are available unlimited, one being from a 460, once your unlimited the high speed tune is easy to hear.

 

[qurotro]

RPM limiter is there for reasons...

 

[Fitz]

So if your interested shoot me a pm..using one of my kits makes it pretty easy to set the upper rpm on the fly. The kit is $25 and is pretty straightforward, and if you decide to get a coil there's at least two different ones that are available unlimited, one being from a 460, once your unlimited the high speed tune is easy to hear.

Thanks, I sent you a pm....

 

[Fitz]

Just don’t pull the trigger as far

I know that sounds like an easy solution and is what I do at times, but I'm trying to test a more efficient solution to feathering the throttle for hours on end. Again, just for testing purposes to see if I can increase production, longevity, and fuel cycles.

 

[Michpatriot]

Since you have a saw that I have I went ahead and assembled it to the right length, tried it in my 461 and you should be good to just pop it in and go..

 

[Fitz]

Since you have a saw that I have I went ahead and assembled it to the right length and you should be good to just pop it in and go..

Awesome.... thank you my friend!

 

[Michpatriot]

I think your gonna really like it..I grew up flying model airplanes so I got used to tuning with a high speed knob by ear..later in life running saws I pondered the idea for a long time, every time I needed to adjust..fiddling with a screwdriver, I really like to have my saw tune perfect for the task at hand and the task is constantly changing. So a few months back I finally started with a few prototypes and after a couple revisions and a lot of use to prove it works, I finally have a easy to install solution. I know they ain't cheap but the knob and shaft had to be adjustable for different saws so this is what it ended up being..Ill say this after running a saw with a knob Ill never go back.. When you first install the knob spit on the shaft where the shrink tube is covering the threads to lube it so it goes in the rubber hole easier. When I test fit yours in my saw it went in perfect, but mine has had one in it for months and the rubber relaxed a tiny bit, when I first put it in it was tight the first time..
Happy cutting
Joel

 

[davidwyby]

I think your gonna really like it..I grew up flying model airplanes so I got used to tuning with a high speed knob by ear..later in life running saws I pondered the idea for a long time, every time I needed to adjust..fiddling with a screwdriver, I really like to have my saw tune perfect for the task at hand and the task is constantly changing. So a few months back I finally started with a few prototypes and after a couple revisions and a lot of use to prove it works, I finally have a easy to install solution. I know they ain't cheap but the knob and shaft had to be adjustable for different saws so this is what it ended up being..Ill say this after running a saw with a knob Ill never go back.. When you first install the knob spit on the shaft where the shrink tube is covering the threads to lube it so it goes in the rubber hole easier. When I test fit yours in my saw it went in perfect, but mine has had one in it for months and the rubber relaxed a tiny bit, when I first put it in it was tight the first time..
Happy cutting
Joel

Still doing these?

 

[Michpatriot]

Naah..look up model airplane fingertip prop ballancer...cut the shaft to the proper length..slip some heat shrink tubing over the threaded portion after sanding the end into a screwdriver point.. Basically the device is held in position by the tension of a interference fit in the hole that it fits in..the heat shrink tubing layered up just right is the ticket..I love the system..both of my current saws have the lil blue knob and I use them to keep the saws running just how I want..long cuts are rich with a 1\4 twist..moving on to limbing?? Just a twist gets the RPMs that would be crazy lean for bucking...DONT run lean on big cuts!!! But I love limbing with a saw tweaked for RPMs!!!The little threaded rod that comes with the finger tip prop balancer is pointed at each end. You can file, or sand it flat, then hammer it into shape or file it into a flat blade..I like mine to fit the carb screw perfect..kinda like a good gunsmith screwdriver..the initial tries fitting the tension with shrink tube..just leave the little blue knob loose on the threaded shaft..it helps to have your saw near a tune you use currently..so the taper on the blue knob fits close to the hole its entering..( I actually taper counter sink the entrance of the hole for a nice fit) the key here is to then pick the proper in\out distance from this seat you are working against so that when you go to the leanest setting you don't force\slide the flat screwdriver end off the adjustment screw..get it? You need a little distance from the taper on the knob to the plastic\rubber hole so that you can tune leaner.. Once you have the knob where you want it on the threaded shaft, mark it, then superglue to keep it fom spinning on the shaft and cut off the excess shaft..in essence you are creating a precise very short screwdriver that is held in place by tension from the heat shrink tube..once its made you can pluck it out..or leave it in. (mine live in the saw) and I've never lost tune or had one fall out..many saws I've had and sold are still using them and they still work perfect. Its one of those things you just have to experience to really appreciate.. Ill never run a saw for work without one again.

Joel
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[Michpatriot]

My 200T and 036\034..