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Stihl MS 261 rebuild questions

drf256

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I agree that meteors are quality pistons. In fact, there are few models where I prefer them over oem for various reasons.

But, in this case, try to get an oem slug. They happen to be really cheap, like under $40.
 

heavy_oil_saw

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I agree that meteors are quality pistons. In fact, there are few models where I prefer them over oem for various reasons.

But, in this case, try to get an oem slug. They happen to be really cheap, like under $40.

How the? In the UK, a new Stihl MS261 piston alone is £87, 98 US dollars at current exchange rate, and Germany is right next door to The UK? Hence why I got a Meteor for £40.


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drf256

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Was speaking of prices here. IDK, that’s around what they go for. I was shocked as well.

Most Stihl oem slugs were super cheap here a few years ago, then the price doubled in most cases. They didn’t seem to get the memo on the 261 pistons. A new 462 piston costs $100, but 261 were $40 at the same time.

No problem going meteor though. I would also at those prices.
 

FederalQ

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Has there been any explanation of the failures on this 261? I know of someone that currently has a similar issue. A less than year old mtronic 261 with 105 hours on it. Bought the Stihl ultra to extend warranty. 40:1 E-free 91 octane gas. Piston scoring on exhaust port side of piston. Doesn’t currently run. Passes pressure/vacuum test at dealer. Dealer may fix under warranty but wants to charge for the labor? I guess it’s just like insurance, you don’t know how good it is until you need to make a claim.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Has there been any explanation of the failures on this 261? I know of someone that currently has a similar issue. A less than year old mtronic 261 with 105 hours on it. Bought the Stihl ultra to extend warranty. 40:1 E-free 91 octane gas. Piston scoring on exhaust port side of piston. Doesn’t currently run. Passes pressure/vacuum test at dealer. Dealer may fix under warranty but wants to charge for the labor? I guess it’s just like insurance, you don’t know how good it is until you need to make a claim.
Warranty is parts and labor period, if he got the 2 year warranty with the ultra and it’s under the 2 years it should be 100% covered. Stihl pays time to dealership to repair warranty stuff. Sounds like he’s looking to double dip talk to another shop. Could be a bad solenoid on carb or few other things but they overall are a very good and reliable saw.
 

Duane(Pa)

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Has there been any explanation of the failures on this 261? I know of someone that currently has a similar issue. A less than year old mtronic 261 with 105 hours on it. Bought the Stihl ultra to extend warranty. 40:1 E-free 91 octane gas. Piston scoring on exhaust port side of piston. Doesn’t currently run. Passes pressure/vacuum test at dealer. Dealer may fix under warranty but wants to charge for the labor? I guess it’s just like insurance, you don’t know how good it is until you need to make a claim.
I really hesitate to open this can of worms, but Stihl Ultra is absolute sh1t oil. (even at 40:1) They ought to double the warranty if you Don’t Use it.
 

MustangMike

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I agree with you totally. I run AMSOIL Saber at 40:1 in all my 2-cycle stuff.

I think when you run the Stihl oil at richer than 50:1 it builds up carbon.

The Saber lubricates well and runs clean.
 

lehman live edge slab

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I really hesitate to open this can of worms, but Stihl Ultra is absolute sh1t oil. (even at 40:1) They ought to double the warranty if you Don’t Use it.
I’m not saying it’s great but Stihl did have it blended for their equipment and gives the double warranty if you buy it. I’m not saying I haven’t seen some carbon in some saws but the one tree guy ran ultra for the last 20 years in the tree service saws and none died from any oil related failures. They just wore out the one 046 quit when a piece of skirt broke off the completely wore out piston. Stihl actually tested ultra to 80:1 and some saws carbon up more than others with it depending on size and use. And no I don’t run it but don’t think it would ruin my saw just cost wise you can get better. The tree guy has since switch back to Stihl orange bottle.
 

MustangMike

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So, the piston wore out ... but the oil is working just fine ... OK.

IMO, the Asian clones are not as durable as OEM saws. I know of a guy who killed two Asian clones (that I built) in a matter of months running Stihl oil at 50:1. I had run both saws a good deal with Saber W/O any problems.

I built a 3rd saw for the guy (all the same) and told him to run Saber at 40:1. I also built one for his Dad and told him the same thing. They have both run their saws for years w/o any problems. (The Son uses his a lot, the Dad not so much.)

I'm not saying you cannot run a stock saw on Stihl oil for a good amount of time, but I'm pretty sure there are better options out there that will prolong the life of your saws. I also believe running better oil is very important if running ported or AM saws, and especially if it is a ported AM saw. One of my clone 660s makes 8.6 Hp., so I'll stick with the Saber at 40:1.

I think running good oil is especially important since they got rid of leaded gas in many areas. Lead acted as a lubricant. FYI my 10mm 044 still runs great. I purchased a new piston and rings for it, but when I ripped it down (to delete the gasket) I decided to leave the original piston and rings in it. There was nothing wrong with the original piston, and the replacement was not quite the same. The original KS piston has stabilizers and a slightly longer skirt.
 

FederalQ

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Where do you find the orange bottles? Everything around here is silver.
 

lehman live edge slab

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I really hesitate to open this can of worms, but Stihl Ultra is absolute sh1t oil. (even at 40:1) They ought to double the warranty if you Don’t Use it.
I’m not saying it’s great but Stihl did have it blended for their equipment and gives the double warranty if you buy it. I’m not saying I haven’t seen some carbon in some saws but the one tree guy ran ultra for the last 20 years in the tree service saws and none died from any oil related failures. They just wore out the one 046 quit when a piece of skirt broke off the completely wore out piston. Stihl actually tested ultra to 80:1 and some saws carbon up more than others with it depending on size and use
Where do you find the orange bottles? Everything around here is silver.
dealer still sells it
 

lehman live edge slab

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So, the piston wore out ... but the oil is working just fine ... OK.

IMO, the Asian clones are not as durable as OEM saws. I know of a guy who killed two Asian clones (that I built) in a matter of months running Stihl oil at 50:1. I had run both saws a good deal with Saber W/O any problems.

I built a 3rd saw for the guy (all the same) and told him to run Saber at 40:1. I also built one for his Dad and told him the same thing. They have both run their saws for years w/o any problems. (The Son uses his a lot, the Dad not so much.)

I'm not saying you cannot run a stock saw on Stihl oil for a good amount of time, but I'm pretty sure there are better options out there that will prolong the life of your saws. I also believe running better oil is very important if running ported or AM saws, and especially if it is a ported AM saw. One of my clone 660s makes 8.6 Hp., so I'll stick with the Saber at 40:1.

I think running good oil is especially important since they got rid of leaded gas in many areas. Lead acted as a lubricant. FYI my 10mm 044 still runs great. I purchased a new piston and rings for it, but when I ripped it down (to delete the gasket) I decided to leave the original piston and rings in it. There was nothing wrong with the original piston, and the replacement was not quite the same. The original KS piston has stabilizers and a slightly longer skirt.
Yes piston wore out after over 20 years as a tree service saw your clones wouldn’t have made it half that with other oils. This was a never opened up saw he bought new he’s ok with the money he made with it and it finally giving up after over 20 years. By the way lead has very little purpose in a 2-stroke and it poisons the operator and lead fouls plugs.It’s lube property for valve seats doesn’t really transfer over to lubing a piston very much.
 
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