Stihl 026 Fuel Line Problems?

[CrystalRiver1]

You know the handle needs to come apart to get the linkage off the carb. That is, unless, I'm not aware of another method.

That's where my mitts and brains failed me...how to get that back on the handle..."I'm as lost as a goose in high wind!"

 

[drf256]

That's where my mitts and brains failed me...how to get that back on the handle..."I'm as lost as a goose in high wind!"

Huh?

There's a screw under the back of the handle. It's torx and flare head at the same time. NOT the standard Stihl torx of course, it's the only screw on a Stihl that has to be different.

Unscrew it and the black handle top will pop off. Don't lose the screw.

The annoying spring is on the lock lever. There's a little slit it catches under. Make sure the lock doesn't go flying.

Then disconnect the linkage rod and have your way with the carb. Should come right off after you remove the nuts.

When you reassemble, it helps to put the saw in the choke position when the rod is in place. You have to put the lock on the spring and put it in position first, then put the rod in, then put the lever to choked. It will preload the area and keep it together while you put the black top handle back in place. Again, watch that the lock doesn't go flying.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Huh?

There's a screw under the back of the handle. It's torx and flare head at the same time. NOT the standard Stihl torx of course, it's the only screw on a Stihl that has to be different.

Unscrew it and the black handle top will pop off. Don't lose the screw.

The annoying spring is on the lock lever. There's a little slit it catches under. Make sure the lock doesn't go flying.

Then disconnect the linkage rod and have your way with the carb. Should come right off after you remove the nuts.

When you reassemble, it helps to put the saw in the choke position when the rod is in place. You have to put the lock on the spring and put it in position first, then put the rod in, then put the lever to choked. It will preload the area and keep it together while you put the black top handle back in place. Again, watch that the lock doesn't go flying.

Haha, i'm gonna have to try that. I'm always trying to hold everything in place while I put that black cover back on...

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Do enough of em, you figure out the easy way.
Sounds like Al & I do them the same.

The other thing I do while working in the carb box area with the handle cover removed, is take a piece of masking tape and tape down the operator presence spring so it don't poke ya 87 times

 

[drf256]

Do enough of em, you figure out the easy way.
Sounds like Al & I do them the same.

The other thing I do while working in the carb box area with the handle cover removed, is take a piece of masking tape and tape down the operator presence spring so it don't poke ya 87 times

LOL

Gotta do that. I just curse and bleed Jeremy...

 

[Adirondackstihl]

LOL

Gotta do that. I just curse and bleed Jeremy...

I prefer the tape method Al
Took me long enough to think of it tho.....
Always seems to poke ya in the web of the hand between thumb & pointer finger.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That's a fricken rip off. I charge 15 minutes plus the parts for a repair like that.

Same here. It might set one of my customers back a sawbuck and a Bud Light at the local bar and grill.

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

TJ, I have a card for our regional Stihl Rep...one hella va nice guy.
I met him a few months back while getting my wife's car serviced at a local dealership.
I sent him a rather detailed text concerning the matter...he had recommended these guys as 2nd best...so now I'll ferret out his #1 dealer!
In the meantime...I'm getting somewhat handy at minor repairs!!

At those prices I would be to! I understand the expenses of owning a business, but a small job like that doesn't take much time unless you are working with your eyes closed. lol

 

[Wood Doctor]

At those prices I would be to! I understand the expenses of owning a business, but a small job like that doesn't take much time unless you are working with your eyes closed. lol

We have dealers here who won't even look at a saw for less than $50. If you bring in any saw and leave it, you have spent $50 before you go out the door, regardless of what repair, if any, is required. And, if they cannot fix it, the $50 is still gone.

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

We have dealers here who won't even look at a saw for less than $50. If you bring in any saw and leave it, you have spent $50 before you go out the door, regardless of what repair, if any, is required. And, if they cannot fix it, the $50 is still gone.

That's stupid, we don't charge until work is actually performed. Like if a customer brings in a blown up saw...we'll confirm it's blown up as a customer service....if he wants an estimate for a rebuild...we'll get the estimate...to much money then we charge an estimate fee to cover time for work performed...usually $15-40 depending on how much labor was involved and we send the customer on their way. But...if they decide to purchase a new saw from us...we waive all fee's. Issue is when shops charge $50 to LOOK at a saw.....lotta times they don't even Look. We will show proof if needed to any customer. I guess that's why we have people doing business with us from over a 100 mile span! I've had to work on saws already worked on at other shops. We have a dealer here who seems to hire brainless beings. lol I've received saws from customer's who just picked them up from that shop...and the saw still had problems. One was they kitted the carb and the saw had an air leak....no one checked for that...carb kit fixes everything. Luckily they brought it to us and we were able to fix it before the saw blew up.

 

[CrystalRiver1]

That's stupid, we don't charge until work is actually performed. Like if a customer brings in a blown up saw...we'll confirm it's blown up as a customer service....if he wants an estimate for a rebuild...we'll get the estimate...to much money then we charge an estimate fee to cover time for work performed...usually $15-40 depending on how much labor was involved and we send the customer on their way. But...if they decide to purchase a new saw from us...we waive all fee's. Issue is when shops charge $50 to LOOK at a saw.....lotta times they don't even Look. We will show proof if needed to any customer. I guess that's why we have people doing business with us from over a 100 mile span! I've had to work on saws already worked on at other shops. We have a dealer here who seems to hire brainless beings. lol I've received saws from customer's who just picked them up from that shop...and the saw still had problems. One was they kitted the carb and the saw had an air leak....no one checked for that...carb kit fixes everything. Luckily they brought it to us and we were able to fix it before the saw blew up.

Sure wish you guys were within my range!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yep
I do the same thing

A little bit of soap does the same thing..

 

[Onan18]

That's stupid, we don't charge until work is actually performed. Like if a customer brings in a blown up saw...we'll confirm it's blown up as a customer service....if he wants an estimate for a rebuild...we'll get the estimate...to much money then we charge an estimate fee to cover time for work performed...usually $15-40 depending on how much labor was involved and we send the customer on their way. But...if they decide to purchase a new saw from us...we waive all fee's. Issue is when shops charge $50 to LOOK at a saw.....lotta times they don't even Look. We will show proof if needed to any customer. I guess that's why we have people doing business with us from over a 100 mile span! I've had to work on saws already worked on at other shops. We have a dealer here who seems to hire brainless beings. lol I've received saws from customer's who just picked them up from that shop...and the saw still had problems. One was they kitted the carb and the saw had an air leak....no one checked for that...carb kit fixes everything. Luckily they brought it to us and we were able to fix it before the saw blew up.

I pretty much do the same thing TJ, except they don't look at anything at customer service, they just tag it and send it back to me. I work up a full estimate and call before anything is done (unless it is a very minor repair, clean carb, stripped bolt, fuel line, etc...) We have a standard $35.00 fee for ALL estimates (everything from a string trimmer to a commercial zero turn) and if the customer approves the repair then that is applied to the first hour of labor. Now if it is just a quickie (fuel line, carb tune, plugged air filter) I only charge 15 minutes, that is our bare minimum. If the unit is beyond repair but the customer buys a new unit from us we wave all fees.

Joe

 

[TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic]

I pretty much do the same thing TJ, except they don't look at anything at customer service, they just tag it and send it back to me. I work up a full estimate and call before anything is done (unless it is a very minor repair, clean carb, stripped bolt, fuel line, etc...) We have a standard $35.00 fee for ALL estimates (everything from a string trimmer to a commercial zero turn) and if the customer approves the repair then that is applied to the first hour of labor. Now if it is just a quickie (fuel line, carb tune, plugged air filter) I only charge 15 minutes, that is our bare minimum. If the unit is beyond repair but the customer buys a new unit from us we wave all fees.

Joe

My bad, I didn't specify...we don't actually Look at anything at customer service either, though Counter repairs are pretty common. Small things like a rope repair many times we'll do on the counter and send them on their way. What I meant by a "customer service" is that if it only takes us 5 or even 10 minutes we'll do it for free....mainly popping the muffler off a blown up saw....we won't charge for that, but we'll charge an estimate fee for the work performed diagnosing the problem and getting an estimate for repair. We have a 15 minute minimum as well, though many times we bend that rule. haha