Something interesting with a new light weight bar.

[jake wells]

You can have anything I have. You're ok in my book.
I mite even have a snackie or two for ya

20'' 72 drive link 3/8 pitch 0.50 gauge D009 mount for husqvarn

 

[Icepick69]

I have pleanty of them..... call in only.... 33.99

 

[CoreyB]

Here is the veracut in action dropping a 28" shagbark hickory. Well almost dropping. Had to pop her off the stump and processed the trunk. So every cut was a bore cut and I got it picked real good once on this one. Not in the video though.

 

[hseII]

34 for a 20" powermatch. Guess I need to lower my prices. Wanna see how low we can go?

No, that's a fair price.

 

[fordf150]

34 for a 20" powermatch. Guess I need to lower my prices. Wanna see how low we can go?

$30 for commercial guys

 

[Icepick69]

$30 for commercial guys

Now that's a good deal, free shipping also?

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

So you buy a $55 lightweight "laminate" bar and when you wear it out you buy another for $55... or you buy a $100 lightweight solid bar with RSN and when you wear out the tip you can replace it for $20 (plus labor if you don't replace the tip yourself).

Seems you'd have to wear out three tips to be ahead with the Tsumura RW. And at that point your rails would be heavily worn. I haven't yet worn out a bar, although I'm also not a logger. For firewood hacks and homeowners doesn't this seem like something interesting? Your post of "apples to oranges" seems quite dismissive. We don't all need pro grade saws, or RSN bars to cut wood.

Assuming the laminate bar doesn't spread or pretzel easier than the solid. I've only used a few laminate bars, including Tsumura (branded as Total) and I refuse to use them again unless there is some sort of breakthrough that means they an handle my abuse as well or close to as well, as my solid Tsumura bars.

 

[CoreyB]

Assuming the laminate bar doesn't spread or preztle easier than the solid. I've only used a few laminate bars, including Tsumura (branded as Total) and i refuse to use them again unless there is some sort of breakthrough that means they an handle my abuse as well or close to as well, as my solid Tsumura bars.

Well I plan on using these. I don't know if I can work them as hard as you could but I will try. Lol if they fall apart on me trust me I will let you know.

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

Well I plan on using these. I don't know if I can work them as hard as you could but I will try. Lol if they fall apart on me trust me I will let you know.

To be clear, I'm not saying I worked them harder than anyone else, rather they were abused. Pinched in the cut (say, like at the critical time of a sizwheel when you are trying get the tree started and can't help but cut a wee bit of compression wood to get it going and the tree bites back), or a tree sits back when you didn't have a wedge in and flattens the rail. That sort of thing. Laminated bars/bar tips just don't seem to handle it and equally the bars don't seem to want to be bent back into near pre-abuse condition, like my solid Tsumuras. I hope your mileage varies.

 

[Derf]

To be clear, I'm not saying I worked them harder than anyone else, rather they were abused. Pinched in the cut (say, like at the critical time of a sizwheel when you are trying get the tree started and can't help but cut a wee bit of compression wood to get it going and the tree bites back), or a tree sits back when you didn't have a wedge in and flattens the rail. That sort of thing. Laminated bars/bar tips just don't seem to handle it and equally the bars don't seem to want to be bent back into near pre-abuse condition, like my solid Tsumuras. I hope your mileage varies.

Ok. That clarifies things. But I'm not sure this argument is a shortcoming of the bar, or of your intended use of the tool. I've heard similar arguments against RW bars due to the cutouts in RW bars causing too much bar flex--which isn't as noticeable when the bar is vertical (as in bucking) but is when it is horizontal (as in felling). There are limits and trade offs to a design innovation.

Your statement reads as though you (or your employees) are very hard on your equipment, perhaps you are better served by solid bars, forget RW RSN or laminate bars.

It also almost sounds as if you're paying premium prices on equipment for the fact that you (or your employees) don't know how to fell trees properly. If you (or your employees) technique/skill/experience improved you likely wouldn't be pinching/abusing your equipment to an early death.

Also, these 20" bars pair well with 60cc saws, a common farm/rancher size. For those who are mostly bucking logs into firewood, this becomes a mute point.

 

[jakethesnake]

You guys really blow laminate bars out? When I had 1 favorite Saw and was cutting all winter I could get over a winter with the same bar. That was 6 days a week. I still keep laminates around because of the wieght. Those were husqvarna branded on a 50cc Saw
They'll last 5 plus years for an average wood hack I'd be interested in one of these if I could get it cheap enough. I'm set on bars for a bit but sounds to me like a fair option at least

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

forget RW RSN

Can only really go on my experience with the Tsumura reduced weight bars as they are the only RW I have used. I still consider them solid bars, as opposed to laminated. Perhaps I should be calling them reduced weight solid, rather than just solid? The Tsumura RW solid ones have held up well for me. As well as the standard solid Tsumuras. Have only ever had problems with either cheap solid bars (come to think of it, was soft rails, not the bars bending or not bending back easily) or laminated bars (never lasted long enough to accurately gauge rail wear).

If it were just one laminated bar rather than quite a few (I should probably point out also none of them have been stihl laminated bars) then I might have considered not piping up. But after three, I gave up and returned to solid or RW solid. But I'm probably a fringe case and the majority may not notice any difference between their laminated and solid bars.

The main reason why i keep searching for 18-24" solid picco bars is because the laminated haven't held up for me and while I like the cannon picco bar, I still haven't put enough time on it to feel anything but uneasy about the nose. Just a gut feeling it won't hold up over time. Hope I'm wrong.

 

[mdavlee]

There's barely any flex on bars under 32". If I'm buying a lightweight I want it to be light like the stihl or oregon ones

 

[Icepick69]

Can only really go on my experience with the Tsumura reduced weight bars as they are the only RW I have used. I still consider them solid bars, as opposed to laminated. Perhaps I should be calling them reduced weight solid, rather than just solid? The Tsumura RW solid ones have held up well for me. As well as the standard solid Tsumuras. Have only ever had problems with either cheap solid bars (come to think of it, was soft rails, not the bars bending or not bending back easily) or laminated bars (never lasted long enough to accurate gauge rail wear).

If it were just one laminated bar rather than quite a few (I should probably point out also none of them have been stihl laminated bars) then I might have considered not piping up. But after three, I gave up and returned to solid or RW solid. But I'm probably a fringe case and the majority may not notice any difference between their laminated and solid bars.

The main reason why i keep searching for 18-24" solid picco bars is because the laminated haven't held up for me and while I like the cannon picco bar, I still haven't put enough time on it to feel anything but uneasy about the nose. Just a gut feeling it won't hold up over time. Hope I'm wrong.

I have some picco bars. What mount do you need

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

In for info.

Looking at a LW 18" for my 026.

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

I have some picco bars. What mount do you need

Thanks. Good ones are like hens teeth here.
3003 and 3005 mount, 18-24", replaceable nose are what I'm needing please.
What brands, bars, and pricing please?
Ta.

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

Talk about a small world. I've got signatures turned off in my preferences and it wasn't until trading a few PM's with Icepick69 that I realised it was Anthony from Apsbarshop. I've bought a few super-mini Cannon bars from Anthony in the past and have had no problem with the bars or noses and the service was great. I do need to put plenty more hours on the picco noses in particular before I'll feel 100% confident in them though. It's not that I've had any probs, but I just get a feeling they're not quite as bulletproof as the bar body. Would be stoked to be proven wrong.
I did confirm the noses are Taiwanese, which I think is the same origin as Oregon's noses.

Simply on the basis of an incredible run with Tsumura bars (only one failed nose and that was my fault for kissing the dirt), and because I like a challenge, I think I'll keep trying to sort a good Tsumura picco bar option first and if no luck then Cannon will be the best option in my opinion. Haven't seen anything suitable from Sugi Hara in the picco.

That brings up another point though. There's a limit to the lengths Tsumura will go. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a market for longer bars for milling. I've got GB titanium bars for milling. If Tsumura did them, then I'd be keen to try one.

 

[KenJax Tree]

Talk about a small world. I've got signatures turned off in my preferences and it wasn't until trading a few PM's with Icepick69 that I realised it was Anthony from Apsbarshop. I've bought a few super-mini Cannon bars from Anthony in the past and have had no problem with the bars or noses and the service was great. I do need to put plenty more hours on the picco noses in particular before I'll feel 100% confident in them though. It's not that I've had any probs, but I just get a feeling they're not quite as bulletproof as the bar body. Would be stoked to be proven wrong.
I did confirm the noses are Taiwanese, which I think is the same origin as Oregon's noses.

Simply on the basis of an incredible run with Tsumura bars (only one failed nose and that was my fault for kissing the dirt), and because I like a challenge, I think I'll keep trying to sort a good Tsumura picco bar option first and if no luck then Cannon will be the best option in my opinion. Haven't seen anything suitable from Sugi Hara in the picco.

That brings up another point though. There's a limit to the lengths Tsumura will go. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a market for longer bars for milling. I've got GB titanium bars for milling. If Tsumura did them, then I'd be keen to try one.

Not sure what picco bar you're looking for but Sugi makes a 3005 bar for the 200T/201T etc..

 

[KiwiBro (deleted)]

Not sure what picco bar you're looking for but Sugi makes a 3005 bar for the 200T/201T etc..

Thanks. I thought they stopped at about 16"?

 

[Dub11]

Here are a couple more photos.
The Oregon versacut is slightly fatter in the back but the same length. I will have to throw it on a saw with a new chain and see how snug it is.View attachment 55152 View attachment 55153 View attachment 55154 View attachment 55155

I like fatter in the back