Small 2 stroke engine seal and bearing puller

[Elton001]

Anyone know if this lisle 58430 seal puller will work on weedeater and chainsaw crankshaft seals? Also what is a good ball bearing puller for these type of engines? I’m rebuilding a echo weedeater that needs new bearings and seals. I already have a new piston and cylinder.

 

[jmester]

Some guys will use a drywall screw to pull the seals. Heat is your friend when removing and installing bearings. If you have the case split to replace the bearings you can use a small punch or screw driver to drive the seals from the inside out. This works well for saws. Maybe a bit different for trimmers.

 

[Elton001]

Some guys will use a drywall screw to pull the seals. Heat is your friend when removing and installing bearings. If you have the case split to replace the bearings you can use a small punch or screw driver to drive the seals from the inside out. This works well for saws. Maybe a bit different for trimmers.

Can you explain on how to remove the bearings, so after being heated up with a torch then pound them out with a socket and hammer?

 

[Al Smith]

As a suggestion try freezing the rotating assembly .Many time just a hard tap on a piece of hard wood will knock them right off .To install again freeze the crankshaft then use a soldering iron to heat the inner race of the bearing and they slide right on .BTW this method is exactly the way both Stihl and Partner recommend .

 

[jmester]

I guess i should of asked if the trimmer a clam shell design. If the bearings are on the crankshaft try the method above. I was thinking more of the bearings that are in the case halves.

Most have a interference fit. Heat and freezing is enough to get them moving. You do have to move quickly as they will bind as the heat makes expansion and cooling contraction

 

[jmester]

Maybe a picture or two would help us to see exactly what you are working with.

 

[Al Smith]

I could mention several other methods if fitting heat shrink bearings .One is heating the entire bearing in hot oil which will cause the entire inner and outer races to grow some .Install on the crankshaft first then use a freeze the crank assembly again and heat the bearing pockets . If you are good with a turbo torch go for it .If not use a heat gun .
If you "spin " a bearing often times raising the metal inside the pocket with a prick punch and using Loctite "press fit " compound will secure it in place . I did this on the first Stihl chainsaw I ever owned which is an 048 that still after nearly 20 years has not failed .Again that goes back to the oil ratio in the gasoline if you want it to last a long time .----and with that I'll say no more .

 

[Al Smith]

Okay one more method I thought of . Depending on the design you can often use the tapered wedges used for Jacobs taper drill chuck adapters to drive the bearings off the crank shaft . I have them from JT #1 to JT #4 .Exactly where they might be at the moment I really can't say except most likely in one of the 26 tool boxes in my shop .It's seldom if more so where is it .

 

[Elton001]

I’m Working on a Echo Srm-280T weedeater engine and it needs new crank bearings as it is loud down there and might as well change the crank seals while I have it apart. I got it used (had a scored piston no compression) some time ago but now im getting around to start rebuilding it. Already have new Piston and cylinder but it’s just the harder parts that are more challenging to do like removing the flywheel and changing the bearings, seals, and re-installing the flywheel etc.. I’m semi competent there. Also this is a split case designed engine so two crankcase halves and a jug (cylinder) that bolts to the crankcase