Setting up a Stihl MS880 for milling

[RedFir Down]

I'm setting up an MS 880 for milling and had a few questions.
I'm going to do a muffler mod and wondering what is a good way to do that? (Just open up the existing outlet? I haven't taken the muffler off yet.)
Also when I tune it should I stick to the factory 12,000 RPM spec?

Thanks guys!

 

[Lightning Performance]

Yes

 

[RedFir Down]

Here's what I ended up doing.


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Moparmyway]

Early 880’s have the cast muffler, like yours has, but I thought the 880’s had the newer 2 bolt coil, limited to under 10k ?

Either way, if you’re interested in milling, then tune for max power in the cut, and open the exhaust as much as possible. You’re going to be a little on the rich side, and that’s right where you are going to want to be, especially for milling. Big saws need more oil, especially if you are milling with them. 5oz per gallon is what I run when milling, you aint no stranger, it’s been a while, but you know what you’re doing.

Too bad you don’t have the newer style muffler, nostrils work out great with them

 

[RedFir Down]

Early 880’s have the cast muffler, like yours has, but I thought the 880’s had the newer 2 bolt coil, limited to under 10k ?

Either way, if you’re interested in milling, then tune for max power in the cut, and open the exhaust as much as possible. You’re going to be a little on the rich side, and that’s right where you are going to want to be, especially for milling. Big saws need more oil, especially if you are milling with them. 5oz per gallon is what I run when milling, you aint no stranger, it’s been a while, but you know what you’re doing.

Too bad you don’t have the newer style muffler, nostrils work out great with themView attachment 270736

Thanks for the pointers. I'm not sure what the coil is limited to, we'll find out soon. I need a fuel line and filter.

 

[Ketchup]

If your coil is a 1309 it’s unlimited. Anything to reduce heat is what you want for milling.

Edit: a wider mesh spark arrestor will help with your muffler mod. I would open the hole to the full height of the deflector. More opening = less heat.

 

[mikerudder]

Early 880’s have the cast muffler, like yours has, but I thought the 880’s had the newer 2 bolt coil, limited to under 10k ?

Either way, if you’re interested in milling, then tune for max power in the cut, and open the exhaust as much as possible. You’re going to be a little on the rich side, and that’s right where you are going to want to be, especially for milling. Big saws need more oil, especially if you are milling with them. 5oz per gallon is what I run when milling, you aint no stranger, it’s been a while, but you know what you’re doing.

Too bad you don’t have the newer style muffler, nostrils work out great with themView attachment 270736

I need this on my twin 880 setup!

 

[Cooper264]

I need this on my twin 880 setup!

Just saying i really want to see a dual 880 setup. Thats like bad ass...Times two

 

[BlackCoffin]

Been awhile since OP posted but keeping heat out and a good mix ratio is key. When running your saw you’ll be able to tell it’s sweet spot when you start milling. I go by ear with mine, also you can watch what the chain does and how it affects cut smoothness. I’ll notice if mine bites hard and really starts lugging down the chain sometimes will be jumping off the bar a bit in the backside and will put some grooves in the slab. Usually time to tighten up the chain a bit by that point but I have seen it even with a tight chain on a shorter bar. If you aren’t physically able to keep a good consistent pressure on the saw if needed to keep it in its wheelhouse then I would recommend investing in a wench setup to keep the wanted load on it. Keeping the rpms too high while milling will shorten its life greatly. If you or anybody else you trust doing a light woods port and a maxflow filtration setup will also be a great addition not only for a power increase but also help it run cooler with a larger charge of fuel mix running through the cylinder. I’ve been milling with mine for a few years now and seems to be in good working order still with minimal wear. I have been known in the past to push a dull chain to finish up a job, but since have learned to walk away and finish later or sharpen the chain. You’ll gain experience with it as you go, I could pull a chain I consider dull for milling and go buck a cord or two of firewood with it. Milling needs that razor edge to do well with, that’s when the saw does the work for you. You’ll notice slightly larger chunks of wood coming out that will gradually turn into fines as it dulls. Also effort needed to get the saw through the cut will be an indicator as well, so if you’re winching it through learn to pickup on rpm and sawdust signs for a dulling chain.
Not sure if you’ve milled before this 880 or not but there is a learning curve but once it’s down it’s all second nature. For these big saws heat is the enemy, keep an eye on that and she’ll cut through a lot of wood for you!
Pics or video of the setup too

 

[Lightning Performance]

Been awhile since OP posted but keeping heat out and a good mix ratio is key. When running your saw you’ll be able to tell it’s sweet spot when you start milling. I go by ear with mine, also you can watch what the chain does and how it affects cut smoothness. I’ll notice if mine bites hard and really starts lugging down the chain sometimes will be jumping off the bar a bit in the backside and will put some grooves in the slab. Usually time to tighten up the chain a bit by that point but I have seen it even with a tight chain on a shorter bar. If you aren’t physically able to keep a good consistent pressure on the saw if needed to keep it in its wheelhouse then I would recommend investing in a wench setup to keep the wanted load on it. Keeping the rpms too high while milling will shorten its life greatly. If you or anybody else you trust doing a light woods port and a maxflow filtration setup will also be a great addition not only for a power increase but also help it run cooler with a larger charge of fuel mix running through the cylinder. I’ve been milling with mine for a few years now and seems to be in good working order still with minimal wear. I have been known in the past to push a dull chain to finish up a job, but since have learned to walk away and finish later or sharpen the chain. You’ll gain experience with it as you go, I could pull a chain I consider dull for milling and go buck a cord or two of firewood with it. Milling needs that razor edge to do well with, that’s when the saw does the work for you. You’ll notice slightly larger chunks of wood coming out that will gradually turn into fines as it dulls. Also effort needed to get the saw through the cut will be an indicator as well, so if you’re winching it through learn to pickup on rpm and sawdust signs for a dulling chain.
Not sure if you’ve milled before this 880 or not but there is a learning curve but once it’s down it’s all second nature. For these big saws heat is the enemy, keep an eye on that and she’ll cut through a lot of wood for you!
Pics or video of the setup too

Get two wenches they come in handy

 

[mikerudder]

 

[Cooper264]

View attachment 281909

That just looks like WAY too much fun