Seeking HVA 562XP expert advice

[newguy#2]

So I bought a Husqvarna 562XP today and I'm having a minor issue with it.

I've got bar oil leaking all over, dripping out from under the clutch cover. I've installed & re-installed the bar a half-dozen times and it seems to have helped somewhat, but there is still an issue with oil 'leaking' instead of getting into the bar groove. The bar gets pretty warm during a one-minute test run, although there is finally a 'stripe' present that's flying off the bar. No visible oil from the groove appearing on the side of the bar near the tip though, unlike my other saws.

I finally got the saw to create an oil 'stripe' during acceleration, but there are still plenty of oil spots appearing and dripping from the clutch cover area. I'm wondering if the dealer supplied me with a 'non-compatible' bar so I've attached some pics for expert opinions. The bar is an HT-380 'Pro RSN' .050 gauge 3/8" 20"; it is not an 'X-Tough' bar and this bar is not listed in the online HVA compatibility chart for the 562XP. The bar's oil holes were inspected and found to be unrestricted, appearing normal & functional; they also 'line up' with the oil supply rubber boot. Chain is 3/8" C83 X-Cut. Did the dealer give me the wrong (or incompatible) bar? The saw was purchased new in a sealed box and the bar & chain were added to the 'basket' (saw assembled by me at home).

Thanks in advance for any opinions; hoping that I can move on with this setup and get some time in with this saw, it's running strong out of the box. If I have to get another bar I can do that also.

One last thing; the dealer attempted to supply me with an .058 gauge bar initially, but I requested the .050 gauge for the saw. Was that the source of this issue?



Moderator: I thought this thread was going to the Husqvarna section, my bad - move it if you get the chance! TIA

 

[srcarr52]

I’d pull the clutch and metal shield to take a look at the oiler to rubber hose connection.

 

[newguy#2]

Thanks for the reply; there is oil coming from the rubber oiler hose where it meets up with the bar so Im thinking that the hose to that junction is OK. I am hoping that someone will reply with info on the bar b/c I feel that's the origin of the problem.

 

[Woodslasher]

If I'm reading the bar right, it's a Husky Large Mount 20" 0.050 bar, which should be correct for your saw.

 

[Bryan Newton]

I know on mine I hold up on the end of the bar when I'm tightening the bar nuts and that works for me

 

[newguy#2]

I know on mine I hold up on the end of the bar when I'm tightening the bar nuts and that works for me

Same here!

 

[full chizel]

Pissing revving it in your garage is gonna make it drip oil. Quit that.

 

[newguy#2]

Pissing revving it in your garage is gonna make it drip oil. Quit that.

Just a couple of 1-minute 'test runs' to ensure it's running OK; on first start, it seemed to be idling strange (autotune 'tuning'?) but it settled out and I was trying to get an 'oil stripe' to diagnose the dripping bar oil, no abuse!

 

[full chizel]

Just a couple of 1-minute 'test runs' to ensure it's running OK; on first start, it seemed to be idling strange (autotune 'tuning'?) but it settled out and I was trying to get an 'oil stripe' to diagnose the dripping bar oil, no abuse!

Don’t or the autotune won’t work right either and it’ll run like chit.

 

[Funky sawman]

I usually drill out those angle drilled oiler holes in those oregon bars, I think two drill sizes bigger helps alot. The stihl bars ain't as bad, but I still drill those too

 

[fdhamlin]

I had the same problem with mine from new.
Turns out the oil tank vent was missing.
Cost me a pair of $250 dollar leather boots.
Took it to the dealer and he accused me of removing it.
That's the last he saw of me!

(537403502 SINTERED BRONZE FILTER)

 

[Catman]

I had the same problem with mine from new.
Turns out the oil tank vent was missing.
Cost me a pair of $250 dollar leather boots.
Took it to the dealer and he accused me of removing it.
That's the last he saw of me!

(537403502 SINTERED BRONZE FILTER)

That’s F**ked Up!

 

[Funky sawman]

Whatttttttt? Acid bar oil??????

 

[Woodslasher]

Whatttttttt? Acid bar oil??????

I'm curious too, any excess oil that hits my boots is freebie waterproofing!

 

[Moparmyway]

I'm curious too, any excess oil that hits my boots is freebie waterproofing!

I treat my boots to some liquefied sno-seal, and a few heat cycles and heavy brushing with a coated buffing brush. Here’s before and after (before are the last two pictures)


Only hot lava will ruin the leather now, just have to avoid cutting them on sharp stuff

 

[bradb123]

Don’t or the autotune won’t work right either and it’ll run like chit.

I agree . Don't start up the saw just to piss rev it . The auto tune doesn't know what to do .

 

[quattro.pilot]

I usually drill out those angle drilled oiler holes in those oregon bars, I think two drill sizes bigger helps alot. The stihl bars ain't as bad, but I still drill those too

I felt the need to do this on a Tsumura 20" K095 bar too.

To the OP: i suppose if the bar oil hole is too small the output quantity will back up in the fluid channel and pool/leak down between the plate and the bar? I dunno it's a working hypothesis

 

[newguy#2]

Good hypothesis! I also consider that it might be 'over oiling' and built-up oil (not dispersed in sawdust or wiped off on cut wood) on the inside of the clutch cover eventually drips out. If properly installed (and engineered) the bar/oil port should be relatively sealed and oil delivery should normally go from rubber boot into oil hole and chain groove.

I've ordered a 20" Oregon Versacut bar and EXL chain which I'm installing on Wednesday and I'll see what the leak situation is after that.

Another contributor on a different forum suggested that since I wasn't 'cutting wood' the oil wasn't being dispersed properly and that created the drops coming from the clutch cover, made a lot of sense to me!

Very thankful to the great suggestions here, thanks to all respondents.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

So I bought a Husqvarna 562XP today and I'm having a minor issue with it.

I've got bar oil leaking all over, dripping out from under the clutch cover. I've installed & re-installed the bar a half-dozen times and it seems to have helped somewhat, but there is still an issue with oil 'leaking' instead of getting into the bar groove. The bar gets pretty warm during a one-minute test run, although there is finally a 'stripe' present that's flying off the bar. No visible oil from the groove appearing on the side of the bar near the tip though, unlike my other saws.

I finally got the saw to create an oil 'stripe' during acceleration, but there are still plenty of oil spots appearing and dripping from the clutch cover area. I'm wondering if the dealer supplied me with a 'non-compatible' bar so I've attached some pics for expert opinions. The bar is an HT-380 'Pro RSN' .050 gauge 3/8" 20"; it is not an 'X-Tough' bar and this bar is not listed in the online HVA compatibility chart for the 562XP. The bar's oil holes were inspected and found to be unrestricted, appearing normal & functional; they also 'line up' with the oil supply rubber boot. Chain is 3/8" C83 X-Cut. Did the dealer give me the wrong (or incompatible) bar? The saw was purchased new in a sealed box and the bar & chain were added to the 'basket' (saw assembled by me at home).

Thanks in advance for any opinions; hoping that I can move on with this setup and get some time in with this saw, it's running strong out of the box. If I have to get another bar I can do that also.

One last thing; the dealer attempted to supply me with an .058 gauge bar initially, but I requested the .050 gauge for the saw. Was that the source of this issue?

View attachment 353879 View attachment 353880 View attachment 353881 View attachment 353882

Moderator: I thought this thread was going to the Husqvarna section, my bad - move it if you get the chance! TIA

Mine started leaking, never had before, seems it was coming from the adjuster screw. Anyway, bought new pump and rubber hose, was white unit not black but told its oem and a better updated unit. Leaked on its third use, and intermittently thereafter, cant leave oil in the tank and put it away without a large pool of oil, frustrating and expensive exercise for no gain. I asked the dealer if it was genuine or an aftermarket replacement? The newbie parts guy said if i have replaced it with aftermarket then there’d be no warranty!! Dopey twit i bought it from them, he ordered it his boss won’t be happy when i return and throw that email comment on the desk, twit.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

We got a shipment of 6 562s and one had a muffler bolt hole drilled too deep into the oil tank , the case was replaced under warranty.
It leaked oil, to say the least.