Saw builds

[hseII]

A Husky filter........

Yes,
Because those never get dirty.

They sit on the saw that sits on the shelf.

I said worksaw; ain't nobody said nothing bout cutting cookies.

I'll call you if you need me.

 

[Sty57]

Yes,
Because those never get dirty.

They sit on the saw that sits on the shelf.

I said worksaw; ain't nobody said nothing bout cutting cookies.

I'll call you if you need me.

I can't believe it took this long to get a rise out of ya............[emoji57]

 

[hseII]

I can't believe it took this long to get a rise out of ya............[emoji57]

I didn't even blink.

It took you that long to find your Husky approved Jumper Cables. [emoji41]

How Y'all Doing?

 

[Sty57]

[emoji4]

Doing great, just had a mystery meat samitch. And kicking back with the dog and cat on my lap.

How's things shaking with you?

 

[hseII]

In Charleston again...

SOS.

 

[jmssaws]

@trooney here's your saw, this is the first time it's ran so it's sloppin fat at 14k and strong. The best sounding one I've done in a long time.

 

[jmssaws]

Here's a 046 I'm gonna sell,stumpy ported it originally then hung a ring and that's how I got it so I fixed the problem and had to make a 066 piston work in it,changed a couple minor things mostly in the transfers. Very strong,best running big bore I've ran.

 

[RI Chevy]

They both sound like real strong saws! Nice for sure.

 

[trooney]

 

[Stump Shot]

@Mastemind and any other builders
Have a special(to me) 254XP saw build that I wanted to share some numbers with to see if I'm in the ball park so to speak. Before I get started let me say that this is the first time I've ever put a degree wheel to anything that didn't have 8 cylinders, so please bear with and correct me if I fubar. My only goal here is to meet or beat the original XP performance, not one step backward. This saw is my cousins that just beat cancer, so I'm trying to go the extra mile here and make him a good one, that said he does not want a ported saw, he made that clear as he has bigger ones if needed. I just don't want him stuck with a pooch. He's owned the saw since new in the late eighty's. So I'm pretty sure with six re-rings on it he knows how it ran.
So the first thing I checked was the worn out OEM cylinder. With a .030" gasket squish is .035", intake begins to open at 70 deg, exhaust opens at 103 deg, transfer at 122 deg, just for a refernce. Replacement cylinder "A" has same .035" squish with same gasket. Intake opens at 71 deg, exhaust 97 deg. and transfer at 121 deg. Then replacement cylinder "B" has a .040" squish with same gasket. Intake began to open at 73 deg., exhaust 105 deg. and transfer at 124 deg. Just to see what would happen with a .020" gasket in cylinder "B" which I'll call "B1". Squish at .030". Intake open at 75deg., exhaust 100 deg. and transfer 118deg. So it's between A,B orB1.
If any one has any good ideas with this mess let me know. I do have a cable drive and could take a little off the intake or exhaust if need be, I do not have a 90 degree to work on transfer ports. I suppose I could sand a few thousandths off the squish band with the old piston if it came to it, that would be about the extent of it as not a machine shop. I do plan on polishing the ports on whatever I end up using.

 

[beaglebriar]

Couple of strong running saws there Jason!

 

[Redfin]

@Mastemind and any other builders
Have a special(to me) 254XP saw build that I wanted to share some numbers with to see if I'm in the ball park so to speak. Before I get started let me say that this is the first time I've ever put a degree wheel to anything that didn't have 8 cylinders, so please bear with and correct me if I fubar. My only goal here is to meet or beat the original XP performance, not one step backward. This saw is my cousins that just beat cancer, so I'm trying to go the extra mile here and make him a good one, that said he does not want a ported saw, he made that clear as he has bigger ones if needed. I just don't want him stuck with a pooch. He's owned the saw since new in the late eighty's. So I'm pretty sure with six re-rings on it he knows how it ran.
So the first thing I checked was the worn out OEM cylinder. With a .030" gasket squish is .035", intake begins to open at 70 deg, exhaust opens at 103 deg, transfer at 122 deg, just for a refernce. Replacement cylinder "A" has same .035" squish with same gasket. Intake opens at 71 deg, exhaust 97 deg. and transfer at 121 deg. Then replacement cylinder "B" has a .040" squish with same gasket. Intake began to open at 73 deg., exhaust 105 deg. and transfer at 124 deg. Just to see what would happen with a .020" gasket in cylinder "B" which I'll call "B1". Squish at .030". Intake open at 75deg., exhaust 100 deg. and transfer 118deg. So it's between A,B orB1.
If any one has any good ideas with this mess let me know. I do have a cable drive and could take a little off the intake or exhaust if need be, I do not have a 90 degree to work on transfer ports. I suppose I could sand a few thousandths off the squish band with the old piston if it came to it, that would be about the extent of it as not a machine shop. I do plan on polishing the ports on whatever I end up using.

View attachment 30980

Something is a tad off with your timing. If your dropping the jug with a thinner base gasket on B1 cylinder all your numbers should be numerically higher which the intake reflects but the trans and ex do not.

Typo?

 

[Stump Shot]

No, guess I'll go re-recheck it. Thanks Redfin

 

[Stump Shot]

Well I double checked with a fresh cup of coffee and glasses on and came up with the same numbers on all. Maybe I'm not doing something properly. I'm spinning the motor in its rightful direction, the numbers I did were for everything are as they are opening so the piston is going up on the intake and down for exhaust and transfer, being zeroed at TDC. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong on my degree wheel, would "A" at 289, "B" at 287 and "B1" at 285 be the right way of looking at it instead?

 

[mdavlee]

Do you get the same reading going both directions on the crank? Could be off a degree or 2. I use the intake and set it where it reads the same no matter what direction instead of trying to find TDC and set it at 0

 

[drf256]

B1, but with a .010 gasket sounds really good to me.

Roof step flashing is about .010. It's thin enough to cut with a razor too.

I'd have no problem at 108/122/76.

Is the B jug OEM or AM?

 

[Stump Shot]

Do you get the same reading going both directions on the crank? Could be off a degree or 2. I use the intake and set it where it reads the same no matter what direction instead of trying to find TDC and set it at 0

No, I did not try that but I can.

B1, but with a .010 gasket sounds really good to me.

Roof step flashing is about .010. It's thin enough to cut with a razor too.

I'd have no problem at 108/122/76.

Is the B jug OEM or AM?

Both A and B are aftermarket.

 

[mdavlee]

No, I did not try that but I can.



Both A and B are aftermarket.

If it doesn't read the same you're off a degree or two.

 

[Stump Shot]

If it doesn't read the same you're off a degree or two.

You called it. I was a quag bubble off my first go all away around. Decided to redo the entire process. The newly improved results with the help from mdavlee are as follows:

Worn out OEM as a baseline 101/118/71 with same .030" gasket and .035" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "A" 97/121/71 same .030" gasket and .035" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "B" 103/119/71 same .030" gasket and .040" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "B1" 105/121/73 different .020" gasket and .030" squish

Thank you mdavlee for showing me the error of my ways, I was starting to feel like Curly with the Raw Oyster Stew!

 

[mdavlee]

You called it. I was a quag bubble off my first go all away around. Decided to redo the entire process. The newly improved results with the help from mdavlee are as follows:

Worn out OEM as a baseline 101/118/71 with same .030" gasket and .035" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "A" 97/121/71 same .030" gasket and .035" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "B" 103/119/71 same .030" gasket and .040" squish

Replacement AM cylinder "B1" 105/121/73 different .020" gasket and .030" squish

Thank you mdavlee for showing me the error of my ways, I was starting to feel like Curly with the Raw Oyster Stew!

Glad you figured it out. I get it close by eye on TDC when I set my wheel on the crank and then check the intake like that til it's the same.