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Rounded nut? Seized nut or bolt?

00wyk

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This guy has a lot of answers. Some of which have certainly helped me a few times. Have you guys got any other tricks to share?

 

00wyk

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This is how I came across that youtube link above, btw. I was trying to remove a loctited bolt from a cylinder. The bolt head sheared off of it. I am a horse of a man, I know. So, I take it down to my local mechanic thinking he's gonna punch the center and then use a threaded removal bolt. I left it with him for a week.
He didn't use a threaded remover. What he did do was this - he drilled it then gave it back to me. No charge...:

170440538.7bh9LhjH.420cylinderseizedbolt.jpg


So WTF can I do to remove this thing now?! Chisel? It's tiny! It's just a 43cc cylinder. Is this a thing? Is this how some folks remove bolts?
 

Car wash guy

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Now you are set up to use an easy out. Tractor supply sells them along with most auto supply stores. The tricky part may be the locktite. You may need to use some heat to get it to turn loose.


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tree monkey

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Now you are set up to use an easy out. Tractor supply sells them along with most auto supply stores. The tricky part may be the locktite. You may need to use some heat to get it to turn loose.


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it's drilled way off center, that won't work
 

tree monkey

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and stop using locktite on saws
 

00wyk

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The most common method I use in the car world to remove bolts snapped off in aluminium engine components is to weld a flat washer to the bolt. Then a nut to the washer. And turn it out.

I told the mechanic it prolly has loctite in it seeing as how the other nut had gunk in the threads and was so tough to remove(it's for a coil mount). I suggested a map torch to loosen it up(which is what he has). They go for 100€+ here btw. So, I didn't bother buying one just for this one instance. Since he is a mechanic, I assumed he's had to do this a few times already. Apparently, he hasn't. I mean, the hole isn't even drilled square. It's at an angle, so prolly has damaged the threads, too. I'm not too pleased, but the man is a friend of my wife, so I haven't said anything yet...
 

redline4

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I told the mechanic it prolly has loctite in it seeing as how the other nut had gunk in the threads and was so tough to remove(it's for a coil mount). I suggested a map torch to loosen it up(which is what he has). They go for 100€+ here btw. So, I didn't bother buying one just for this one instance. Since he is a mechanic, I assumed he's had to do this a few times already. Apparently, he hasn't. I mean, the hole isn't even drilled square. It's at an angle, so prolly has damaged the threads, too. I'm not too pleased, but the man is a friend of my wife, so I haven't said anything yet...

GM's exhaust manifold bolts have loctite and are prone to breaking.

You would be amazed how many "mechanics" have never extracted a broken bolt.
We had a guy here try to sell brand new cylinder heads to a customer on a truck with broken exhaust bolts.
 

Dustin4185

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GM's exhaust manifold bolts have loctite and are prone to breaking.

You would be amazed how many "mechanics" have never extracted a broken bolt.
We had a guy here try to sell brand new cylinder heads to a customer on a truck with broken exhaust bolts.
I’ve done mine twice now on my 2500HD, 6.0L. They can be a SOB to get out! MIG welder to the rescue! We had to pull some ball joint sockets in a tractor MFWD axle. The factory didn’t machine the pocket deep enough to get the slide hammer jaws behind it, so I built it up with weld, then the thing just fell out! Heat helps on many things.
 

ucm931

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The most common method I use in the car world to remove bolts snapped off in aluminium engine components is to weld a flat washer to the bolt. Then a nut to the washer. And turn it out.
99 1500 5.3, about half the maifold bolts were broken off. A couple snapped a little deep. Same thing...mig welder, washer, nut. The splatter won't, and didn't, stick to the aluminum, so I wasn't worried. Funny thing is, after I welded them up, they pretty much turned out by hand. lol

edited to dix my spellimg. :(
 

Wilhelm

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What @tree monkey said.

Though 1/4" is 6.35mm, that threat is most likely M5x0.8.

If it is an M5 mill it out with an 4.0mm end mill and the remaining bolt material may actually come out without further damaging the thread in the cylinder.
If it is a M6 use a 5.0mm end mill, same deal.

I rarely remove snapped bolts out of aluminum, but I have removed a fair amount of bolts snapped within steel.
I also remove snapped HSS taps out of steel with the above mentioned method but in that case I use a Solid-Carbide drill bit, firm clamping and cooling are mandatory.

In case You have no access to a mill or drill press and time is of no importance and You are patient enough You could slowly grind the bolt out with a small carbide or diamond burr.
Once the bolts core is ground away the remaining treads may come out on their own or with a little help.
 

PissRev

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The biggest thing you can do to avoid stripped nuts and bolts is to not shower down on it with a 12 point always use a six point.
 

redline4

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These sockets are blue point.
I'm guessing there are others that are similar.
20200302_085636.jpg 20200302_085645.jpg

They come in real handy when that 15mm nut has reduced itself to a 12.64mm nut due to rust..
 
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