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RapidMicro or RapidMicro3

stelario

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hello i am from Greece and i have ms260 chainsaw. I want to change the chain and the guide from 18'' to 16''. when i bought it from canada they gave it to me with RapidSuper chain .325 /0.05gauge 18'' RollomaticE bar. Here in Greece we cut (Abies cephalonica) and someone from stihl.gr company told to use Rapid Micro chain because RS used for more harder trees. I want ask if this is correct and what is the difference between RM and RM3 chain. thanks a lot.
 

Nutball

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So has anyone used a Dremel to cut off the bumpers that prevent bore cutting? It would be nice to have a yellow pro chain in .043
 

Ford3000

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So has anyone used a Dremel to cut off the bumpers that prevent bore cutting? It would be nice to have a yellow pro chain in .043
Is 91 VXL chain in 3/8 lp, .43, no bumper links, it sure bore cuts.
 

Nutball

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I checked my 91 last night and it had them. I'd prefer Stihl chain anyway, but I've noticed it isn't as easy as it should be to bury a bar in a cross cut with that chain likely from the anti kick bumpers.
 

Ford3000

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I checked my 91 last night and it had them. I'd prefer Stihl chain anyway, but I've noticed it isn't as easy as it should be to bury a bar in a cross cut with that chain likely from the anti kick bumpers.
That’s odd, I had a small Echo 352 with a 91 chain, it bored like
a dozer, never noted any bumpers on it, had it sharpened at the saw shop
though, maybe I got back something else.
 

Philbert

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. . .they gave it to me with RapidSuper chain . . . someone from stihl.gr company told to use Rapid Micro chain because RS used for more harder trees.
Welcome to the forum!

'RM' (Rapid Micro) is STIHL's term for semi-chisel chain. Semi-chisel chain has a rounded corner, and cuts a little slower, but keeps cutting longer, especially in dirty wood.

'RS' (Rapid Super) is STIHL's term for full-chisel chain. Full-chisel chain has a sharp, pointed corner, and cuts faster, but that corner is susceptible to damage, even by dirt, which slows it down a lot.

Here is a list from STIHL USA that describes how they name their chains:
Screen shot 2020-08-27 at 4.45.14 PM.png

Since you have the RS chain, why not buy a loop of RM chain to fit your current bar, try them side-by-side, and see which one you like better? A good dealer can shorten a 18" loop of chain to fit a 16" bar later on, if you do decide to go with the shorter guide bar.

Philbert
 

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Ford3000

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hello i am from Greece and i have ms260 chainsaw. I want to change the chain and the guide from 18'' to 16''. when i bought it from canada they gave it to me with RapidSuper chain .325 /0.05gauge 18'' RollomaticE bar. Here in Greece we cut (Abies cephalonica) and someone from stihl.gr company told to use Rapid Micro chain because RS used for more harder trees. I want ask if this is correct and what is the difference between RM and RM3 chain. thanks a lot.
If the wood you want to cut is real hard, 3/8 chain would pull out
bigger chunks with the right rakers, and RM will stay sharp longer,
RS is a good chain, but the corner goes especially in hard wood, you
can of course use it, but you will need to sharpen more often.

A 261 will need a short bar if you go 3/8, I would get a bigger saw
if your wood is really hard.

For softer wood 261 with either chain in .325.
 

Philbert

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I have run MS260 / MS261 saws with 16", 18", and 20" bars. All with .325 pitch, .063 gauge chains, both RM and RS, in a wide variety of wood.

I am certain that in side-by-side comparisons I could identify differences, but as a practical matter . . . if I had the 18" bar, and was in good condition, I would keep it until it wears out.

I like to have at least 3 chains per saw, so I might have different kinds.

A 20" bar is pretty big for that saw, IF fully buried in 20" or larger wood, but not a big deal if cutting smaller diameter wood. JMHO

Philbert
 
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