Cerberus
Cerberus the aardvark, not the hell-hound!!
- Local time
- 9:55 PM
- User ID
- 11523
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2020
- Messages
- 292
- Reaction score
- 121
- Location
- Florida (tampa area)
tl;dr -- Going-up to 8t sprockets worked, but I found the chain-tensioner's range was significantly limited when using my 25" Roll-o bar (but not so bad on the other unit w/ the 32" Oregon) so I'm kinda worried about getting the (9/10)tooth unit only to find it doesn't work/fit!! I should be clear that, if the sole thing one needs to do is grind/carve the rear of the bar itself, to make it fit, I'm plenty OK with that
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Is there any "most-common" worksaw gearing for 660's? Or "ported/built 660's"? I found the 8-pin to work better on both of my units:
#1: 99cc big bore, built for torque, 25" setup and:
#2: 91cc pop-up 32" built for chainspeed,
my 'felling & bucking' units, respectively....both benefitted, w/o doubt, from going-up to the 8pin....I lost the other 8-pin I'd ordered so right now only the 25" big bore has an 8T and I'm about to order, at minimimum, 1 more 8T...but I cannot stop thinking that 9t, maybe even 10t, would be better -- and I'm happy to experiment myself but hate relying-upon that as 'final word' -- so am just gonna be honest that I'm not even sure, if I'm holding an 8t & 9t sprocket, am not even sure which of my 2 units would be 'more appropriate' (for instance, sure, 'bucking saw' is built for higher speed, but is pushing 50% more DL's....and sure, 'felling saw' is built for torque, but on both units I can't help thinking "They're similar-enough output, similar-enough dimensions&orientation of the total units, they're likely to be optimized at the same tooth-count" because, sure, finer gearing would see them wanting different optimums but when the options are simply 7t, 8t and 9t then I'm betting there is a 'best', so am here hoping for insight )
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Thanks a ton for any insight, don't wanna order more random parts I won't use (like a 10t sprocket if it's dumb ) so yeah please be gentle I promise I thought a lot about this before posting, read about it, even keep trying to think of gearing relative-to bikes & vehicles, and -for my saws- keep coming to conclusion that it's likely a specific tooth-count is gonna be the optimum for both of my worksaws despite "different build intents"!
~~~~~~~~~~~
Is there any "most-common" worksaw gearing for 660's? Or "ported/built 660's"? I found the 8-pin to work better on both of my units:
#1: 99cc big bore, built for torque, 25" setup and:
#2: 91cc pop-up 32" built for chainspeed,
my 'felling & bucking' units, respectively....both benefitted, w/o doubt, from going-up to the 8pin....I lost the other 8-pin I'd ordered so right now only the 25" big bore has an 8T and I'm about to order, at minimimum, 1 more 8T...but I cannot stop thinking that 9t, maybe even 10t, would be better -- and I'm happy to experiment myself but hate relying-upon that as 'final word' -- so am just gonna be honest that I'm not even sure, if I'm holding an 8t & 9t sprocket, am not even sure which of my 2 units would be 'more appropriate' (for instance, sure, 'bucking saw' is built for higher speed, but is pushing 50% more DL's....and sure, 'felling saw' is built for torque, but on both units I can't help thinking "They're similar-enough output, similar-enough dimensions&orientation of the total units, they're likely to be optimized at the same tooth-count" because, sure, finer gearing would see them wanting different optimums but when the options are simply 7t, 8t and 9t then I'm betting there is a 'best', so am here hoping for insight )
~~~~~~~~~~
Thanks a ton for any insight, don't wanna order more random parts I won't use (like a 10t sprocket if it's dumb ) so yeah please be gentle I promise I thought a lot about this before posting, read about it, even keep trying to think of gearing relative-to bikes & vehicles, and -for my saws- keep coming to conclusion that it's likely a specific tooth-count is gonna be the optimum for both of my worksaws despite "different build intents"!