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Good call @Funky sawman
One thing I would suggest Jake
New frt. main crank seal and the front tin timing gear cover. Use sealant on the gasket and definitely loctite hardware. Cover bolts tend to loosen with engine vibrations and looks as if some are loose now. No better time than present. As you are now aware work space is limited in chassis. Also is that a rubber ear type pump coupling?? Hard to tell from pics. Good thing is no sign of rear main seal leakage or hyd pump input shaft seal leakage. Good deal on a safe removal sir
 

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Yup little 4BT Cummins with the best injection pump. ;)

I like these little engines
You got something against rotary or common rails @Dieselshawn?? LOL!
Hardest thing about that inline Bosch pump is changing the fuel cut solenoid between the pump and block.
 

Funky sawman

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You got something against rotary or common rails @Dieselshawn?? LOL!
Hardest thing about that inline Bosch pump is changing the fuel cut solenoid between the pump and block.
I like the P7100 inline pumps, but I really like the common rails, especially after I figured out how they tic and how to write custom tunes
 

ktmtigger

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Yeah believe you’re correct.

nothing wrong with it. Hydraulic lines are under there and they need to all be replaced
Been dealing with the same exact situation but the owner wouldn't ok the time to pull the engine so I'm having hoses made and cutting out the bad ones. One by one

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No room. Hanging upside down with a grinder cutting blind. I made an adapter to put air pressure to the hydraulic tank to find the leaks. Probably have 70hrs and 3k into over the past year but that's what he wants

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93ecd12f6c8612954aa2409b15fb4b9f.jpg

We just pull ours up on the hoist for under carriage work.


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