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Porting question

Boomer 87

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Just curious, if i were to buy a piston and cylinder kit, could i send it to a reputable porter and have him do the grind work, then i can install the parts myself? Or does he have to have the machine to check timing and other things. Itd be aftermarket parts bc thats all i can afford oem parts are high for an 084.
 

CR888

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Depends on the builder I suppose, some won't port AM P/C's but some will. They all usually prefer the whole saw to get precise squish/port no's. But also I know Randy has helped some Aussie guys where it makes no sense to spend $300 shipping a saw across the globe twice and ported cylinders for them. He was good to me when I bought a minty MS660 in the States and at the time his book schedule was full and was not taking new work. I asked nicely and he did my saw as it was in the US saving me a bunch in shipping. I'd just get a conversation going with your builder and they will answer questions better than I.
 

jb-chainsaws

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if you're going with 084 id recommend starting with a cross performance top end, at least you've got a good base. id probably say just run it like that and if you're really hungry for more let randy work his magic on it, or any of the other awesome builders on here for that matter.
 

Boomer 87

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I think the cylinder is fine, it does have some piston wear, no scoring just some hazing i guess youd call it. I could probly get by with a meteor piston and make sure the jugs clean.

Im not gonna change it right now, but i think at some point i want to change the piston before it does something to the cylinder. Its going on a mill, it wont be worked alot, but it will be worked hard.
 

Boomer 87

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Ive seen those cross performance kits are they anything special over stock stuff?
 

mdavlee

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Cross is about the best looking plating on any of the kits. If I remember right Andrew Wellman sent a ported jug for them to copy.
 

Boomer 87

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So if i got a cross 084 jug it would already have the enlarged ports, i could slam it in and go?
 

drf256

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A saw needs to be built for its intended purpose.

A milling saw vs. a cant saw are likely the two ends of the spectrum as far as enhancements go.

I'd tighten the stock squish, open the muffler, and leave the ports and ignition timing alone myself.

More power = more fuel = more energy = more heat

Heat is your enemy milling.
 
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Boomer 87

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Thats true milling is as hard as youll ever be on a saw. Nothing wrong with mine right now, just looking into the future and aquiring things just to have on hand whenever i need them. I figure it cant hurt to have a piston kit, gaskets, even crank bearings on hand.

The 084 is going to live on my granberg. So i want to be prepared. I need to open the muffler up some for sure, give it a boost.
 

Mastermind

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Thats true milling is as hard as youll ever be on a saw. Nothing wrong with mine right now, just looking into the future and aquiring things just to have on hand whenever i need them. I figure it cant hurt to have a piston kit, gaskets, even crank bearings on hand.

The 084 is going to live on my granberg. So i want to be prepared. I need to open the muffler up some for sure, give it a boost.

Just keep it tuned sorta fat. And for milling I'd be using Belray H1R at 32:1
 

mdavlee

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Just keep it tuned sorta fat. And for milling I'd be using Belray H1R at 32:1
Only with a respirator. That stuff and R50 choked me out horrible. Maxima K2 and Honda HP2 are about the least offensive I've used at thick ratios milling.
 

Mastermind

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Only with a respirator. That stuff and R50 choked me out horrible. Maxima K2 and Honda HP2 are about the least offensive I've used at thick ratios milling.

I will defer to you here Mike. I was not thinking of the smell.......only the protection.
 

mdavlee

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I will defer to you here Mike. I was not thinking of the smell.......only the protection.
It protects but man it's rough to breath unless there's a good breeze behind you. Motul 800 is the same way but will burn into a hard carbon when milling.
 
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