Ordered LGX, received LPX

[kingOFgEEEks]

I just ordered a loop of LGX chain for my new to me 5100, and received LPX instead. I contacted the seller, and he would let me return it if I want to, but I'm wondering how big of a deal this is.

I have used LGX in the past on other saws, and liked the performance. Are the bumper links on the LPX something that will slow me down, or will they add smoothness to the cut and help me out?

I will be using this for limbing and small bucking, since I'll use my 2188 for the heavy work and falling that I do.

Thanks for the input.

 

[jakethesnake]

Honestly there's not a ton of diffrence I just went through trying to distinguish what one I have one has a bumper the other has a slight ramp I don't think either will matter much I guess if you plunge cut a ton you may find a preference to me it wouldn't much matter they both offer a sort of kickback protection

 

[darkimpulse]

Only difference when I was using the two is LPX has a bumper on the drive link, on LGX it is not there as was stated above. Attached pics for reference.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Thanks guys. I thought the cutters looked the same when looking at Oregon's site. So based on your opinions, should this cut just as quickly/aggressively as LGX? And the only downside is a little more work in filing the depth gauges because of the bumpers?

 

[darkimpulse]

From my experience, if there was a difference between the two it was that the LPX was smoother in the cut and wanted to kick and grab less than my LGX loop. Cutting difference time wise for me was unnoticeable, but I was not timing them.

 

[KenJax Tree]

I agree with darkimpulse i prefer LPX because its smoother cutting, everything else is equal. The bump isn't a factor because it's shorter than the raker anyways.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

I use LPX in .325 and LGX in 3/8ths.

For skip, JPX is da bomb.

 

[J.w Younger]

I just ordered a loop of LGX chain for my new to me 5100, and received LPX instead. I contacted the seller, and he would let me return it if I want to, but I'm wondering how big of a deal this is.

I have used LGX in the past on other saws, and liked the performance. Are the bumper links on the LPX something that will slow me down, or will they add smoothness to the cut and help me out?

I will be using this for limbing and small bucking, since I'll use my 2188 for the heavy work and falling that I do.

Thanks for the input.

Honestly i don't think there's any difference in the cutters to speak of, just the drive link in front of the cutter has a ramp.
With a spring sprung saw they are both okay or i can't tell any difference.
With a rubber dampened saw the lp is smoother, cuts and bores ok too, nothing like the stihl bumper link chisel crapola.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

I think that decides it then. Thanks guys for your thoughts.

This weekend I cut some black locust with the slightly used LGX chain that came on the saw when I bought it. It was rough, grabby, and wants to kick back something fierce. Hopefully some time re-adjusting the LGX will make it more user friendly, but in the meantime, I'll just hang onto the LPX and use it as well.

 

[jakethesnake]

ThAt grabby *s-word usually shapens out of em

 

[J.w Younger]

I think that decides it then. Thanks guys for your thoughts.

This weekend I cut some black locust with the slightly used LGX chain that came on the saw when I bought it. It was rough, grabby, and wants to kick back something fierce. Hopefully some time re-adjusting the LGX will make it more user friendly, but in the meantime, I'll just hang onto the LPX and use it as well.

If you want to run a smooth cutting chain run that lg until the rakers need taking down real bad and put you a good sharp square profile on it.
You'll need a tall raker so you can set em all .025. The thing you can't do is put any back, so you need em tall to begin with.
On factory chain rakers are all over the place to begin with, which is understandable since they are assembled after grinding the cutters.
Also, on round you need to keep dropping them below .025 as the cutter gets filed or ground back, where square seems to work with a taller depth gauge.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

If you want to run a smooth cutting chain run that lg until the rakers need taking down real bad and put you a good sharp square profile on it.
You'll need a tall raker so you can set em all .025. The thing you can't do is put any back, so you need em tall to begin with.
On factory chain rakers are all over the place to begin with, which is understandable since they are assembled after grinding the cutters.
Also, on round you need to keep dropping them below .025 as the cutter gets filed or ground back, where square seems to work with a taller depth gauge.

That's kind of what I'm hoping. I plan on touching up in my grinder, then setting the depth gauges with my file-o-plate, and hopefully getting the teeth and gauges more consistent, to see if that helps.

 

[J.w Younger]

That's kind of what I'm hoping. I plan on touching up in my grinder, then setting the depth gauges with my file-o-plate, and hopefully getting the teeth and gauges more consistent, to see if that helps.

The husky tool would maybe be a better choice for oregon chain, unless they make one for oregon now and I don't know about it.
The cutter angle on oregon chain is different than carlton.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

The husky tool would maybe be a better choice for oregon chain, unless they make one for oregon now and I don't know about it.
The cutter angle on oregon chain is different than carlton.

I've been using the FOP just for depth gauges for about a year now, and I like what it's done for my chains. This is on LGX, Woodland Pro, and Stihl RS.

 

[J.w Younger]

I've been using the FOP just for depth gauges for about a year now, and I like what it's done for my chains. This is on LGX, Woodland Pro, and Stihl RS.

I've used em on those chains to, they work and shape the raker at the same time as taking it down. Woodland pro is carlton and stihl has the same top plate angle as carlton.. 30 deg where oregon is 25.
The angle i was referring to was the top plate from the toe to the heel viewed from the side. Carlton has less angle than the oregon or stihl and the geometry may be a tad different, probably not enough you would notice thou. Since the husky chain is actually oregon, the husky tool would maybe be more suited to the LG, but using the FOP won't be that far off and will give you a consistant setting.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

I've used em on those chains to, they work and shape the raker at the same time as taking it down. Woodland pro is carlton and stihl has the same top plate angle as carlton.. 30 deg where oregon is 25.
The angle i was referring to was the top plate from the toe to the heel viewed from the side. Carlton has less angle than the oregon or stihl and the geometry may be a tad different, probably not enough you would notice thou. Since the husky chain is actually oregon, the husky tool would maybe be more suited to the LG, but using the FOP won't be that far off and will give you a consistant setting.

I see what you're saying. Yeah, it's probably a little bit out of optimum for the Oregon, but as long as I file consistently for all cutters, theoretically it works.

 

[SawTroll]

I just ordered a loop of LGX chain for my new to me 5100, and received LPX instead. I contacted the seller, and he would let me return it if I want to, but I'm wondering how big of a deal this is.

I have used LGX in the past on other saws, and liked the performance. Are the bumper links on the LPX something that will slow me down, or will they add smoothness to the cut and help me out?

I will be using this for limbing and small bucking, since I'll use my 2188 for the heavy work and falling that I do.

Thanks for the input.

Just hang on to the LPX, it definitely is smoother than LGX and RS, and it also seems a bit faster based on the few comparisons I have made (with relatively short bars).

It does of course have those small ramps that some scoff at, but on the flip side it has much smaller and less ramped rakers than LGX (and RSC/RS). It is "yellow" chain, just like those.

The RS3 may look about the same as LPX at first glance - but that one is "green" chain, with much larger rakers and ramps. To put it another way, it combines the kickback reducing features of the LPX and the RS/LGX.

 

[SawTroll]

Honestly i don't think there's any difference in the cutters to speak of, just the drive link in front of the cutter has a ramp.
With a spring sprung saw they are both okay or i can't tell any difference.
With a rubber dampened saw the lp is smoother, cuts and bores ok too, nothing like the stihl bumper link chisel crapola.

Hello ol' friend!

Frank Crofter and Oregon have claimed that LP bore cuts better than LG, and as far as I can tell they were right.

This was before the "X" chain, but that hardly matters.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Just hang on to the LPX, it definitely is smoother than LGX and RS, and it also seems a bit faster based on the few comparisons I have made (with relatively short bars).

It does of course have those small ramps that some scoff at, but on the flip side it has much smaller and less ramped rakers than LGX (and RSC/RS). It is "yellow" chain, just like those.

The RS3 may look about the same as LPX at first glance - but that one is "green" chain, with much larger rakers and ramps. To put it another way, it combines the kickback reducing features of the LPX and the RS/LGX.

I think I will get a couple of loops and try it out on a couple of different bars
Thanks

 

[SawTroll]

I've been using the FOP just for depth gauges for about a year now, and I like what it's done for my chains. This is on LGX, Woodland Pro, and Stihl RS.

You may want to try the Husky raker guide. It works the same way as the FOP, being progressive, but has the added benefit of the choice of a "soft" and a "hard" setting. I haven't measured, but as far as I know "hard" starts out at .025 and "soft" at .030.
The 3/8" one is made for LP/LPX and LG/LGX, but ime also works well on RSC/RS.