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Powerstroke Cowboy

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You use a diamond ball burr

Ball hones are great for 4-stroke engines…not so good for a cylinder with ports in the walls like a 2-stroke.

Thats what I use to put the beval on the ports.

I understand I am not as knowledgeable or experienced as you all here. I appreciate the feedback. I do know why some say they are no good in engines with ports in the walls. I have as far as I know, never had a problem doing it. Maybe it's because I don't spend much time in it. Less then 10 seconds and with lots of oil, plus in nikasil or chrome bores I use a finner grit. I not there to remove material just clean up what's there.


honing will erase much more plating all around the ports than just putting a little bevel on port edges.
I have not had a problem with losing material around the ports using a ball hone. I might be wrong, but before a ball hone removed the coating in the bore it would be ate up. In order to actually hone or put a new cross hatch in nikasil you need a diamond hone.


Not trying to be a noob that's a jerk . Sorry if I'm coming across that way. I would like to see some information on those who have done it and had problems.

I am here to learn. And of that means changing how I have always done it, so be it.

EDIT: The only thing I can see with the ball hone is if you get carried away and spin to fast you might chip the nikasil coating on the side of the port in the direction the hone is spinning. If that's the case, and if it truly chips the coating on the port edge. ( I have not seen it yet, but have never used a magnifieing glass to look) Then it's not a good idea at all no matter how "careful" I am.
 
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Mastermind

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Thats what I use to put the beval on the ports.

I understand I am not as knowledgeable or experienced as you all here. I appreciate the feedback. I do know why some say they are no good in engines with ports in the walls. I have as far as I know, never had a problem doing it. Maybe it's because I don't spend much time in it. Less then 10 seconds and with lots of oil, plus in nikasil or chrome bores I use a finner grit. I not there to remove material just clean up what's there.



I have not had a problem with losing material around the ports using a ball hone. I might be wrong, but before a ball hone removed the coating in the bore it would be ate up. In order to actually hone or put a new cross hatch in nikasil you need a diamond hone.


Not trying to be a noob that's a jerk . Sorry if I'm coming across that way. I would like to see some information on those who have done it and had problems.

I am here to learn. And of that means changing how I have always done it, so be it.

EDIT: The only thing I can see with the ball hone is if you get carried away and spin to fast you might chip the nikasil coating on the side of the port in the direction the hone is spinning. If that's the case, and if it truly chips the coating on the port edge. ( I have not seen it yet, but have never used a magnifieing glass to look) Then it's not a good idea at all no matter how "careful" I am.

Ball hole in a plated bore with ports. Bad idea. But you do it however you like. I rarely weigh in on these things cause I've seen too much drama over the years.
 

farminkarman

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Thats what I use to put the beval on the ports.

I understand I am not as knowledgeable or experienced as you all here. I appreciate the feedback. I do know why some say they are no good in engines with ports in the walls. I have as far as I know, never had a problem doing it. Maybe it's because I don't spend much time in it. Less then 10 seconds and with lots of oil, plus in nikasil or chrome bores I use a finner grit. I not there to remove material just clean up what's there.



I have not had a problem with losing material around the ports using a ball hone. I might be wrong, but before a ball hone removed the coating in the bore it would be ate up. In order to actually hone or put a new cross hatch in nikasil you need a diamond hone.


Not trying to be a noob that's a jerk . Sorry if I'm coming across that way. I would like to see some information on those who have done it and had problems.

I am here to learn. And of that means changing how I have always done it, so be it.

EDIT: The only thing I can see with the ball hone is if you get carried away and spin to fast you might chip the nikasil coating on the side of the port in the direction the hone is spinning. If that's the case, and if it truly chips the coating on the port edge. ( I have not seen it yet, but have never used a magnifieing glass to look) Then it's not a good idea at all no matter how "careful" I am.
I really don’t understand the point of honing a plated bore 2-stroke cylinder. If there is transfer, then remove the transfer. A ball bone is useful in a cast bore 4-stroke cylinder where you need to re-establish cross-hatch for proper ring seating & rotation. In a 2-stroke with pinned rings, cross-hatch isn’t needed.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I really don’t understand the point of honing a plated bore 2-stroke cylinder. If there is transfer, then remove the transfer. A ball bone is useful in a cast bore 4-stroke cylinder where you need to re-establish cross-hatch for proper ring seating & rotation. In a 2-stroke with pinned rings, cross-hatch isn’t needed.
Hmm now you got me thinking. I always thought all bore needed a cross hatch. I use it just to take the glazing off the bore. But sounds like it would be simpler and cleaner to wash the glazing off by hand.

I did hone a plated bore one time that was scratched up for a friend, it started with bad compression and came out with good compression. He did not want to spend the money on a new or re-plated jug. It was more of an experiment. It worked. Was it the proper way? Nope, not by a long shot. Was it the right way? Again, the awnser is no. He was happy though.

Thanks for your thought on the subject.

It sounds like a tradition of mine needs to.be changed.
Ball hole in a plated bore with ports. Bad idea. But you do it however you like. I rarely weigh in on these things cause I've seen too much drama over the years.

Thanks for you advice and thoughts on the subject. If you feel the need to call me out, go for it. I will not take offense. Like stated before, I am here to learn. Most of yall here, have forgotten more than I'll ever know.

I always avoid drama if I can help it. Life's to short for all that junk.



Lay it to me strait guys, I can take it. After all, that why I am here, to learn.

Have a good night all.
 

dall

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Hmm now you got me thinking. I always thought all bore needed a cross hatch. I use it just to take the glazing off the bore. But sounds like it would be simpler and cleaner to wash the glazing off by hand.

I did hone a plated bore one time that was scratched up for a friend, it started with bad compression and came out with good compression. He did not want to spend the money on a new or re-plated jug. It was more of an experiment. It worked. Was it the proper way? Nope, not by a long shot. Was it the right way? Again, the awnser is no. He was happy though.

Thanks for your thought on the subject.

It sounds like a tradition of mine needs to.be changed.


Thanks for you advice and thoughts on the subject. If you feel the need to call me out, go for it. I will not take offense. Like stated before, I am here to learn. Most of yall here, have forgotten more than I'll ever know.

I always avoid drama if I can help it. Life's to short for all that junk.



Lay it to me strait guys, I can take it. After all, that why I am here, to learn.

Have a good night all.
just dont bend over in front of jason and you will be ok
 
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