I put a new one on it when I built the engine. Someone had installed a 302 balancer on it.
If you want to work on something all the timeI put a new one on it when I built the engine. Someone had installed a 302 balancer on it.
Good deal! At least now you know where to begin.I checked timing like you suggested. Found the problem too. Mechanical advance is practically nonexistent until 4500 rpm....so to make it run even close to how it should going down the road, initial timing ends up about 21°. When I get home from vacation (which starts Wednesday morning), I'll recurve this distributor.
Errr….. we do the C-ing thing not the F-ing thingLooks pretty cold to me Sean. Those temps are all below freezing.
I felt lucky Having a friend with a distributor machine to quickly find an issue..I checked timing like you suggested. Found the problem too. Mechanical advance is practically nonexistent until 4500 rpm....so to make it run even close to how it should going down the road, initial timing ends up about 21°. When I get home from vacation (which starts Wednesday morning), I'll recurve this distributor.
I believe that is correct.I forget now, is the 302 balancer neutral and the other one weighted?
LOL I'll pass.If you want to work on something all the time
Just put a 318 in it with a original 60s/70s electrical system.
I got a Mac Tool timing light from Ed awhile back. It is an adjustable light, and a tach in one tool.I felt lucky Having a friend with a distributor machine to quickly find an issue..
A timing light and RPM gauge can get you there too.
I am glad it worked out for you@3browns I owe you a word of thanks on the paint advice several months ago. Finally got around to some Vaca time on this Ole Gal. It's 75% better for sure. Think I'm gonna let her go like this and give a new buyer barter fodder. Hood paint is $750, nose wrap would be close to $350. Anyhow I used one of these new synthetic clay tools from Griots garage, it seemed to work well. Here is what I used left to right. I'm sure you remember the adhesive mess I had on my hands for sure. Anyhow thanks again sir! TimgView attachment 423794View attachment 423795View attachment 423796View attachment 423797
Pre 81 302 is 28oz and all 351 are 28oz 82 up 302 is 50ozI believe that is correct.
LOL I'll pass.
I got a Mac Tool timing light from Ed awhile back. It is an adjustable light, and a tach in one tool.
The wizards has a great aluminum polish, but all I can speak on. Haven’t used any of the other products.I am glad it worked out for you
I have and use the Griots synthetic clay and really think highly of it and it looks like you followed up with some well thought out products
I have never used the Wizard's line but I have heard others say good things about it
That last picture of the hood looks great!!!
Glad I could help a bit
That's right !!!!!Pre 81 302 is 28oz and all 351 are 28oz 82 up 302 is 50oz
Did you advance or retard the cam any?That's right !!!!!
It's been a few days since I built this 351 now.
Good question..Did you advance or retard the cam any?
No. Installed it straight up.Did you advance or retard the cam any?
Pretty much has to be a distributor problem then.No. Installed it straight up.
Didn’t you do a build thread on here of the 351?Pretty sure I used a 1.7 rocker. I wanted more lift than the cam specs indicated.
I posted about it.....but I don't believe I did a thread.Didn’t you do a build thread on here of the 351?
Maybe was just here in this thread.I posted about it.....but I don't believe I did a thread.