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Dream

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That's basically all I'm doing. I'm gonna start with 3/4" and see how that works then I'll add another plate if need be. I'm glad to hear yours worked out well. Gives me hope... LoL
Not sure how that one is set up. YJs have a full frame. Trans crossmember is bolted to the bottom. Easy to just let down and add spacers.
I can get a pic tomorrow if yours is similar. Maybe bolted into the unibody?
 

beaglebriar

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Not sure how that one is set up. YJs have a full frame. Trans crossmember is bolted to the bottom. Easy to just let down and add spacers.
I can get a pic tomorrow if yours is similar. Maybe bolted into the unibody?
Yeah two bolts on either side. Shouldn't take long to slap in and test. Get rid of those vibes then I gotta play with the caster angle some.
 

Dream

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I believe positive but this chits all new to me. My understanding is the pinion and the transfer case should be at or near the same plane??
As close as possible at ride height. Cant really achieve that, but stock universal joints can take SOME misalignment.
You can go to a 1430(hope I got that right) series joint, and it handles more angle.
There are probably guys on here that know the math better than I do.
 

Dream

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Yeah two bolts on either side. Shouldn't take long to slap in and test. Get rid of those vibes then I gotta play with the caster angle some.
Did the kit come with a dropped Pittman arm? If not, getting one will help with that.
 

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I believe positive but this chits all new to me. My understanding is the pinion and the transfer case should be at or near the same plane??
Negative is down and positive is up so being a leaf spring suspension I'd probably say you're 8° negative right now meaning the pinion points downward a little to deal with axle wrap. If that's the case I'd try 4° shims
 
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beaglebriar

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Negative is down and positive is up so being a leaf spring suspension I'd probably say you're 8° negative right now meaning the pinion points down to deal with axle wrap. If that's the case I'd try 4° shims
I'll have to check that tomorrow. I threw my angle finder on it real quick tonight. Correcting the angles with shims does make the most sense.
 

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Negative. I'm gonna shim the lower control arms to push the bottom of the axle forward some.
Ok. Lower link arms. I just had to go back and look. Your front suspension is similar to a TJ/JK setup. The YJ uses leaves all the way around.
You want to keep the front axle as close to vertical as you can. Whats happened is youve got tue steering control arm from the box pulling everything to the left. If its adjustable, you can straighten it that way. It probably isn't, so lowering the Pittman arm or lengthening the control arm is what needs to happen. I dont think you can push the front axle forward enough to correct that without getting the axle over or under center. That Will cause a lot of steering issues. Rear axle can tilt. Front really shouldn't.
 

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Dream

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Negative is down and positive is up so being a leaf spring suspension I'd probably say you're 8° negative right now meaning the pinion points downward a little to deal with axle wrap. If that's the case I'd try 4° shims
Did the kit come with wedge blocks for the rear? If so, the "fat" part goes to the rear. You want that pinion pointing up, not down, just like Smith is telling you.
 

Dream

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I'll have to check that tomorrow. I threw my angle finder on it real quick tonight. Correcting the angles with shims does make the most sense.
Make sure you check angles with it on a flat surface and OFF any jacks, Jack stands, (cinder blocks for us rednecks), etc. At ride height. Doesnt hurt to let it down, then back it up and pull back forward a couple of feet to set everything.
 

dall

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So what you are saying is, if duradink's man toy put an ear to his rear, he'd hear the ocean. Like a big ole conch shell.
exactly

Happy Birthday @dall hope you had a gooder one brother!
thank you slacker
HBD @dall you dirty ol bastid!![emoji324][emoji512][emoji510]
thank you slacker
You slacking on your birthday you old dog? Happy birthday @dall
i didnt get to do it all day was out in my building working on @beaglebriar favorite saw
thank you slacker
Prolly out to dinner with his boyfriend.
then you kick me in the nuts

@dall hope you and Maddie enjoyed your birthday
she was good until it stormed
what a kick in the balls

ouch dammit
 

beaglebriar

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Did the kit come with wedge blocks for the rear? If so, the "fat" part goes to the rear. You want that pinion pointing up, not down, just like Smith is telling you.
No wedge blocks. My understanding is that I'll need longer center pins to go with the wedges. My only concern is that during my internet sleuthing a bunch of guys have tried going with wedges and end up going with a double cardan shaft anyway. For whatever reason these are tuff to eliminate all the vibes after lifting. Not to say that it can't be fixed with wedges, just have to find the right combo.
 
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