New builder Husqvarna 42 Black top..

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Looking good neighbor! I wish I had a dog I could send you but I don't. I just have a stupid toothless bumper dog kicking around somewhere.

 

[Adamski]

Looking good neighbor! I wish I had a dog I could send you but I don't. I just have a stupid toothless bumper dog kicking around somewhere.

Cheers for the kindness but the postage would not be worth the hassle to the uk [emoji23]. I’ll get round to making one or finding one.

 

[Adamski]

So I've had it running, compression is good. But... It will run and then starve of fuel. Removing the fuel cap does nothing. I retuned the carb back to spec or a little rich. Then I checked the carb inside. The diaphragms seem good. What level do I set the metering lever to? Flush with the carb body? I have a feeling the fuel line is a bit dodgy. The impulse is clear and the seals are good. Any more ideas? I'm thinking the fuel line..

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[RIDE-RED 350r]

Alot of the Walbros call for the metering lever to be even with the housing. How is the fuel inlet screen? I've seen more than a few stopped up with debris.

Could also be a weak pump diaphragm

 

[Adamski]

Cheers guys. What other saws use this carb. I think it's the carb as it behaves perfect (a little hard to start) but it idles and revs nicely and hits wot, then after a second or so leans out, starves bogs and stalls if you don't idle it back down. All seals and bolts are good. Fuel hose and fuel filter are good. The lever is set to the carb body. Maybe the diaphragm is a tad rippled. Fuel inlet screen looked clean.

Struggling over hear to get quotes on a carb kit for a 42.

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[Simondo]

Cheers guys. What other saws use this carb. I think it's the carb as it behaves perfect (a little hard to start) but it idles and revs nicely and hits wot, then after a second or so leans out, starves bogs and stalls if you don't idle it back down. All seals and bolts are good. Fuel hose and fuel filter are good. The lever is set to the carb body. Maybe the diaphragm is a tad rippled. Fuel inlet screen looked clean.

Struggling over hear to get quotes on a carb kit for a 42.

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Your carb should be a Walbro HDA .98 most likely. You need a kit that is listed as K22-HDA (repair kit)...there are plenty of good aftermarket kits from UK on ebay.
Ps: be sure you have a free flowing tank filter , even if its the Husqvarna white sort... They can restrict .

 

[Adamski]

Cheers Simon. I have found a genuine kit for £12.99. I also hav a few spare filters. I shall try another sort and a new kit and report back!

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[Tor R]

Sorry I've not seen your thread before Adam, let me know if there is any special parts you need for your build, I may have some stuff that can fly over the pond fast for you.

Managed to take it to pieces. Well down to the short engine. It’s surprisingly clean and the paint is still shiny. I mean it looks like it has been used until it was dirty as and then shelved for the rest of its life.

View attachment 195648View attachment 195649View attachment 195651View attachment 195652View attachment 195653

I’ll be cleaning it and looking into it come more in the next few weeks [emoji122][emoji106]

She looks to have alot time left Adam.
When you get her up running, there is a few things I would checked/swapped.
The trottle linkage, some of them has to short rod. Don't buy a new one, most of the times we can modd a couple parts.
Later, the two shoe clutch should be swapped out for a three shoe clutch.

242/42 felling spike.. discontinued..

what other parts fit, or is it a case of me laser cutting a new one?

Cheer in advance for any advice!

either ebay or laser cutting one.
They've been NLA for years.

Timing advance or no timing advance? That is the question...

All mine has, 42, 242, 246's, they seems to like advanced timings very well.

 

[Adamski]

Don't be sorry at all. It's nice to hear from you. At the moment I have modded a felling spike to fit. I'll check that throttle linkage this week. How much to file off the keyway for a timing advance? It has cleaned up real nice to be honest. One thing I noticed the other evening was that I can hear a slight knock on rotating the crank. It's not play in the crank assembly it self as that was all checked upon assembly. I can only think that the piston bearing has loosened after running it or it has slight piston slap. Neither make sense to me as the piston was spotless and the bearing was in good condition.

Another question is are the carb settings 1 1/2 on both as a base line? It's a long time since I've touched a small old husky. I've had numerous 365/2's 346/7's and a few 281/8's but it's been 7 years since I had a 254xp and never touched one of these so I'm fairly rusty with these.

And on a last note, why change out the 2 shoe clutch? Surely it's along the same route as the 3 series style?

But I like.. a lot

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[Tor R]

Don't be sorry at all. It's nice to hear from you. At the moment I have modded a felling spike to fit. I'll check that throttle linkage this week. How much to file off the keyway for a timing advance? It has cleaned up real nice to be honest. One thing I noticed the other evening was that I can hear a slight knock on rotating the crank. It's not play in the crank assembly it self as that was all checked upon assembly. I can only think that the piston bearing has loosened after running it or it has slight piston slap. Neither make sense to me as the piston was spotless and the bearing was in good condition.

Another question is are the carb settings 1 1/2 on both as a base line? It's a long time since I've touched a small old husky. I've had numerous 365/2's 346/7's and a few 281/8's but it's been 7 years since I had a 254xp and never touched one of these so I'm fairly rusty with these.

And on a last note, why change out the 2 shoe clutch? Surely it's along the same route as the 3 series style?

But I like.. a lot

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1/3 of the key Adam. I've been a tad over that too but I wouldnt say it did much extra.
Do a squish test to eliminate piston slap Adam. If you have removed the head gasket your squish may be to tight.
Carb settings is 1 turn out from the factory, if my memory is correct all my 242/246's seems to end up around H 3/4 setting.
2 shoe vs 3 shoe, most of the time I get a 2 shoe 133/234/238/42/242, it seems it has had a spring failure in its time, hence why I use a 3 shoe clutch on a runner. I wouldnt stress with the clutch yet though.
Spikes or not, in US & Germany they where normal, in Scandinavia they was rare, if I owned a farm with more spruces I would maybe consider a bumper more then spikes on a 42/242.

 

[Simondo]

Cheers Simon. I have found a genuine kit for £12.99. I also hav a few spare filters. I shall try another sort and a new kit and report back!

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If you went with this listing ? I hope you looked at the small print.

 

[Adamski]

If you went with this listing ? I hope you looked at the small print.
View attachment 204459

I havnt bought anything yet, but it looks the one. What does the small print say?

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[Adamski]

Just read it. How can you put genuine in the title and aftermarket in the small print. What bulsh..

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[Simondo]

I havnt bought anything yet, but it looks the one. What does the small print say?

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[Simondo]

Just read it. How can you put genuine in the title and aftermarket in the small print. What bulsh..

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Thats why my advice was to get a aftermarket kit...I have used many and they are fine .
This is a good place ...

 

[Adamski]

Thats why my advice was to get a aftermarket kit...I have used many and they are fine .
This is a good place ...View attachment 204462

Okies [emoji106]

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[82f100swb]

I get a kick out of the desire for a felling spike on these little guys. If I was running anything at all it would just be a bumper, there isn't the torque there to really lean on one of these guys, they cut faster self feeding with a good chain.
The spike/bumper was one of the first things my old man ditched when a new saw came home. He felt being able to use all of the bar was of more use to him(he ran 15's) than "one of those useless things that just gets in the way." But, cutting/limbing/blocking 8 foot pulpwood for the forwarder to pick up is not exactly the way most of us use these saws anymore.

1995 242 on the right, and Dad's last new saw on the left, 1997 246. The 242 easily has 4000 cords on it, the 246 is probably in the 3000 range.

 

[Adamski]

1/3 of the key Adam. I've been a tad over that too but I wouldnt say it did much extra.
Do a squish test to eliminate piston slap Adam. If you have removed the head gasket your squish may be to tight.
Carb settings is 1 turn out from the factory, if my memory is correct all my 242/246's seems to end up around H 3/4 setting.
2 shoe vs 3 shoe, most of the time I get a 2 shoe 133/234/238/42/242, it seems it has had a spring failure in its time, hence why I use a 3 shoe clutch on a runner. I wouldnt stress with the clutch yet though.
Spikes or not, in US & Germany they where normal, in Scandinavia they was rare, if I owned a farm with more spruces I would maybe consider a bumper more then spikes on a 42/242.

Hi @Tor, I have figured out the knocking on the rotation of the crank. It seems that the piston pin is quite free on the piston and the bearing quite stiff on the pin. Do you 1. know if the bearing is used on any other models as my source for 242/42 stuff is quoting an expensive bearing. And also do you have a pin diameter that I can get some callipers to check to. I will then figure out if it is a new piston or pin that is needed. Hopefully a pin as OEM are extortion. Are meteor any good on these? I know meteor quality are good but the measurements are not always great on some models I have used them on.

Cheers as always.

 

[82f100swb]

• 503414101 is the current small end bearing number from my notes. Looks like It fits some trimmers and top handle saws as well as the 136/141, so it should be readily available.

 

[Adamski]

• 503414101 is the current small end bearing number from my notes. Looks like It fits some trimmers and top handle saws as well as the 136/141, so it should be readily available.

Cheers I have found one at £11.50 rather than £22. Any idea on the pin as a single item? Can’t seem to find a p/n for that all I can get hold of is the genuine piston assy. [emoji106]