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Angore

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Hey folks , my stubbornness has got the better of me as usual and I'm taking another crack at this old saw .
My cylinder pressure is around 165psi .
I have installed new crank bearings and seals .
I'm convinced my problem lies in carburation .
I struck out with a cheap Amazon carb (wrong choke lever placement).
I can't seem to find the correct choke hole placement on any aftermarket carb so I ordered a used Ebay carb with the correct configuration (see last pic , OE carb is on left).
I added some pics of my hose placement and believe they're correct .
Please chime in if you see something amiss .
Thank you for your help .
-Gene


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hacskaroly

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I have a Poulan Woodshark that is about the same size as this one. I know it uses two different sizes of fuel line, not sure if that can be part of the problem. From the Craftsman IPL this is what I found:

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The larger line size is: OD: 3/16" ID: 3/32"
The smaller line size is: OD: .140" ID: .080"

Chickanic on YouTube just went through a Poulan Wild Thing (very similar if not the same thing as your Craftsman) and there might be something she hits on that might help out:
 

heimannm

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You have the location of the fuel line and return line reversed but that won't make any difference as long as you have them connected correctly which your notes say that you do. I always drill out the small hole in the tank and use the same 3/32x3/16 fuel line for all three.

You have not given us any description of what the saw is or isn't doing, tough to help if we don't know what the problems are.

Did you test the crankcase for pressure and vacuum? That would be a good place to start.

Mark
 

Angore

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Thanks Mark .
The best description I can give is its a mid 90s Craftsman 42cc model .
It doesn't make sense to me to have the return line exit in a lower point in the fuel cavity , but I have switched them back to their original routing.
The only reason I can see for the smaller line is the flexibility. The larger diameter line is much more rigid and may not let the filter sit correctly in the tank 🤔.
Either way , I got the used carb today and I'm very positive. It looks great and still has the limiter caps on it .
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Angore

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Just for giggles , I pulled the old Champion plug and put a new NGK in .
It runs but is not perfect ....

 

redneckhillbilly

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any chance your fuel can is contaminated?
go cut with it, you can only tune them so much without actually using them to cut.
 

Angore

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any chance your fuel can is contaminated?
go cut with it, you can only tune them so much without actually using them to cut.
I guess there's always that chance but I'm 99.9% sure everything is good . That is an empty Tru-Fuel can I keep around for ATV season when I don't need an entire can riding with me .
It was completely empty . I measured out 32 oz of the 2 week old Non E 89 octane I use for the snowblower . I measured 24 milliliters of Klotz 2 cycle sled-oil and mixed well .
I normally mix with Red Armor but I don't use any 40:1 from Nov - April so I used the sled stuff . Maybe it doesn't like it ?
I'm very happy this runs . Come spring , I'll take it down on the 1st ATV ride ( with some fresh Red Armor mix ) and play with it in the forest .
Thanks really for all you people that helped . This was a challenge to me to get running by one of my riding buddies.
...when it cuts wood , I will be able to say "I WIN" !

Now I may have to un-retire this old girl !

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Angore

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I watched a couple Walbro rebuild vids on YouTube.
They recommend the needle lever height to be set flush with the top of the carb body .
Does this seem correct to you guys ?
The levers contact point seems to be sitting well below that .
Can the lever height be set with a machinists rule and feeler gauges or should I order the Walbero tool ?
Thanks folks !
 

hacskaroly

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They recommend the needle lever height to be set flush with the top of the carb body .
What is the Walbro type carb you have? Generally you can use a tool that will straddle the body of the carb and you line up the side that is noted for the carb and the lever should just touch the tool side, if the lever catches, bend the lever lower a bit, if the lever misses, bend it up until it touches.

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EFSM

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I watched a couple Walbro rebuild vids on YouTube.
They recommend the needle lever height to be set flush with the top of the carb body .
Does this seem correct to you guys ?
The levers contact point seems to be sitting well below that .
Can the lever height be set with a machinists rule and feeler gauges or should I order the Walbero tool ?
Thanks folks !
Zama C1 carbs are flush with the top of body. Almost all Walbros are flush with metering chamber floor.
 

Angore

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What is the Walbro type carb you have? Generally you can use a tool that will straddle the body of the carb and you line up the side that is noted for the carb and the lever should just touch the tool side, if the lever catches, bend the lever lower a bit, if the lever misses, bend it up until it touches.

View attachment 476916
WT-391
 

hacskaroly

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Ok, since you have a WT, using this tool, you would look for the "WT" on the tool, then flip it down like this. The blue lines area will rest on the carb body while the green line should rest on the metering lever (not pushing it down). If the tool is pushing the metering lever down, then you will need to adjust the metering lever lower. If the metering lever is not touching the tool, then you will have to adjust it up. Makes it pretty quick and easy to double check heights or to make adjustments. As you can see, this will work with several different Walbro carb variants. Zama has a similar tool for their carbs.

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