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MS460 compression

Fruecrue

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117D4C59-9854-4AD1-8048-5665E3480CFE.jpeg B0C5BEAE-F19A-4C63-8B1C-0F2771050165.jpeg Exhaust was 104ish without gasket, transfers begin to open at 125ish viewing through ex. Port, 127ish viewed through plug hole. Once I cleaned the carbon, squish was a little bigger, though still too tight for my liking.
I sanded the piston a bit and threw it back together.
 

Fruecrue

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Cool idea. Then you can experience each modification and see first hand what they do.
Yes, and I’d like to start comparing saws while I have the degree wheel on them.
This one, when the motor rolls in running direction, the first flywheel magnet pulls the motor and holds it at 20 dergrees before TDC.
My Chinese 660 would hold at 12 degrees BTDC.
May not be too scientific, but I’d like to see if I can see a pattern.
This saw has always been a runner, was my big saw for some time.
When I first built the stock Chinese 660, I was none too impressed and I bet the 460 was stronger.
 

drf256

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I'm not sure you can get a good reading on transfer port timing through the exhaust. I'd look through the spark plug hole. They're probably higher than thought.
My experience as well. I’ve been severely off by this method.

The only accurate way I’ve found is to pop a ring in the cylinder and creep up on the transfer roof.
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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This is one Stihl model that can run very well with little to no machine work.

In a Hemi chamber, I usually take .015-.020 out and get near 200 psi with a .020 squish. I’m not sure how this saw is 195+ stock with no machine work. Oil in cylinder?

If you don’t have a Right angle tool, you can stack cutoff wheels and use those to raise the uppers. You can also nip the piston.

Ideally, you want the uppers to open in the 118-120 range.
 

Fruecrue

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This is one Stihl model that can run very well with little to no machine work.

In a Hemi chamber, I usually take .015-.020 out and get near 200 psi with a .020 squish. I’m not sure how this saw is 195+ stock with no machine work. Oil in cylinder?

If you don’t have a Right angle tool, you can stack cutoff wheels and use those to raise the uppers. You can also nip the piston.

Ideally, you want the uppers to open in the 118-120 range.
Definitely a good bit of assembly oil in the cylinder. I have a new set of cabers but opted to use the original rings.
I plan on going back in at some point.
I also plugged the de-comp.
 

drf256

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I think I forgot to tighten the intake boot clamp.

:facepalm:
At least you put It on. Yeah, been there and done that :pesas:.

After the new year, I’ll have more time. Send that jug down, and a Meteor whenever you want Dave. I can just machine it, just do the upper transfers, the full boat, whatever you want.
 

Al Smith

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You can get the upper transfers with a straight shafted die grinder,Dremel type .If you look around they make round nose burrs in longer lengths like 2 and longer inches .Keep in mind though that far away you have to be careful they don't get away from you .This is not a race ,slow the grinder down .You need good illumination working in a blind ended hole .As well it's not like you have to get it done in one fell swoop .Stuff like this will work on your fingers,take a break every so often .
 

Fruecrue

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At least you put It on. Yeah, been there and done that :pesas:.

After the new year, I’ll have more time. Send that jug down, and a Meteor whenever you want Dave. I can just machine it, just do the upper transfers, the full boat, whatever you want.
How do you turn down an offer like that?
Thanks Al!
 

Fruecrue

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Ran the saw today.
Christmas and what not, no time to touch up the chain, and it sure does need it.
85FD3219-014C-4A5C-B4BE-DF319B71ABB5.jpeg

Ran it anyway, 25” bar, 30” ash.

 

RI Chevy

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Ok. Cool. Do you follow the witness marks when you square file?
Looks like you are right on.
 

RI Chevy

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OK. That's what I thought. A little less angle. [emoji106]
 
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