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SELLING MS260

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Majorpayne

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Nice saw. Clear tank model. I love my 026 saws.

BTW: An IP address can pretty much be located anywhere. I used to be with HughesNet, and they were out of Phoenix, AZ. All my emails and stuff came from Phoenix, though I was here in Oregon. Hughes is a scam though, and I do not recommend them to anyone. Slow DSL is WAY better, faster and cheaper. My IP address now is someplace else in Oregon, where the phone company is located. Just the way it is.
One of the happiest days of my life was telling Hughes to stuff it. I just suspected the guy being a scammer cause he had 4 posts on the forum and starts making offers on a dead thead.
 

Windthrown

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Oh, I was not knocking the scam alert. Noobs that stir shyte like that are to be avoided. I was just pointing out that IP address locations can be pretty meaningless.

Hughes is really bad, and to be avoided at all costs. When I left them, they claimed that I did not return the radio and router. But I have a return parcel form from UPS saying that they signed for it. They charged my CC for $300. Calling their Hindi center was useless, and they just said that if/when I returned the equipment they would refund it. I called the bank, they refunded me the CC money, but Hughes then just charged my CC again the next month! So I posted complaints with the Oregon PUC, and with the BBB in Virginia (where Hughes HQ is 'officially' located, even though the main company is in SoCal). The BBB posted my complaint online. The PUC investigated my claim. Within a week Hughes posted a reply on the BBB boards that they had found the radio and router and were "sorry for any inconvenience". Phut. I got a letter form the PUC as well saying that they had opened a complaint and Hughes had complied. A week later my CC account was credited. No apologies from Hughes directly though. They keep sending me upgrade options and junk mail. I use it to start stove fires with here.
 

RI Chevy

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Is this a 44mm or 44.7mm saw?
 

Windthrown

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Unless its one of the very few early 44mm MS260 saws that had the 026 jug and slug, it should be a 44.7mm. Unless you swapped out the P&C? They (the 026 and the 260) P&C can be swapped back and forth with no other changes. I have a later model 026 with a 260 44.7mm P&C that I swapped onto it. It runs fine.

Is it 3/8th std or .325 B&C? Or Picco? Length of bar? Inquiring minds want to know. And it bumps the thread.
 
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Majorpayne

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Unless its one of the very few early 44mm MS260 saws that had the 026 jug and slug, it should be a 44.7mm. Unless you swapped out the P&C? They (the 026 and the 260) P&C can be swapped back and forth with no other changes. I have a later model 026 with a 260 44.7mm P&C that I swapped onto it. It runs fine.

Is it 3/8th std or .325 B&C? Or Picco? Length of bar? Inquiring minds want to know. And it bumps the thread.

It is 16 inch, .325, I said earlier it was 50 gauge but I think it is probably 63. I can check in the morning. The rear handle is a Farmertec as the original was cracked.
 

Cracker Boy

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I built both 44 and 44.7 saws stock and i have personaly found the 44 mm with the non decompression cylinder runs better has more torque in the cut with same bar chain and carb ,and on the 44 mm the pistons are doamed im not sure but i can only assume its timing number .just saying and i dont want to open a can of worms either.and i have heard this from others saying 026 cuts better then 026 pro
 

Cracker Boy

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I actually switched my 44.7 woods ported cylinder and piston on my pro saw with another 44 mm stock 026 saw i built to sell cuz the. Stock 44 mm 026 i built had same carb flywheel etc and ran better then my woods ported 44.7 with adjustable oiler
 

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.just saying and i dont want to open a can of worms either.and i have heard this from others saying 026 cuts better then 026 pro

There is really zero difference between the Pro and non pro saws in performance. The 026 and 026 Pro have the exact same 44mm engines (as do the 260 and 260 Pro with a 44.7mm), but the Pro saws have a decomp valve and an adj oiler. That is it. I have owned a half dozen of these saws and cannot really tell the difference between the 44mm and thee 44.7mm P&C. I run them with Picco low profile B&C and they SCREAM!
 
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BTW: There have been many comparisons between the 206/260 pro and non pro saws over the years, mainly over on AS. The oilers will puddle at idle on the non-pro 026/260 versions, but they keep the bar good and oiled. Many prefer the non pro oilers. No one that I know believes that these saws ever needed a decomp valve, and over the years I have been replacing more of my decomps with bolts. Mainly because on the 361 they tend to flood when cold using the decomp. Also decomps tend to leak over time. I think that my 441 blew because of an air leak in the decomp valve (overheated and lightly scored, I replaced the P&C and sold it, and then I sold the jug on AS to a guy that refurbished it).

At any rate, IMO the PRO is pretty meaningless on the 026/260 and 036/360 Stihl saws. On the 036/360 the only difference is that the PRO models had the decomp. Those all had adj. oilers. And in the end, these are all professional saws. Decomp or no decomp (actually, no decomp might be considered more professional?)
 

huskihl

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Never seen an 026 with a domed piston. Only one I know of is an 028 super
I think all 026/260 are domed, but it's over the entire piston. The center is higher than the edge. The 028 super has a flat piston with a round nipple in the middle.

Get your own pics of the nipple
 

huskihl

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I knew my 026 had the dome, but I couldn't tell. It ain't much
 
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