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Ms260 Rebuild by a beginner

Kiwioilboiler

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So take a ball hone to it lightly and look at the possibly scored area again?
TC the Mastermind method referenced by Canadian Farm Boy is the industry standard, but I have had good success with a piece of 120 grit emery tape lubed with a squirt of wd40. Use your finger of choice to rub the emery paper on the transfer and check often. Up and down, side to side. Good cylinder feels slippery with the wd40, ally piston transfer not so much.
 

drf256

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So take timing numbers with and without a gasket, figure out the squish, and get some fuel resistant sealant? Also, do you see the scored area in the last pic? It looks like it’s through the plating if my eyes don’t lie
Take them the way you will eventually run the saw. I can tell you that the ex will be 95ish, this intake floor around 68-70 and the uppers 127ish with the gasket.
So take a ball hone to it lightly and look at the possibly scored area again?
Please don’t, use the sanding method above, most damage below the exhaust roof usually doesn’t matter. You won’t have any irregularity of the bore where compression occurs. The rings stop riding on the plating near the exhaust floor. You just need to make sure there isn’t any transfer left and that any other damage isn’t proud to the bore.
 

Sagebrush33

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Oh the little pic. I dont think I have ever changed mine.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Dang my absent mind ...LOL
Could have sworn it was sometin else.
May be time to lock me up in a funny farm soon. I think I may be loosin my mind. LOL
 

Cooper264

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I’m with you on the not skimping. What are some good brands of compression testers?

If you have another use for them ide say SNAPON, but I bought OTC as I have no other needs for a compression tester. Very good quality and fairly cheap priced for the quality. Proto sells nice ones but they are a little old style, mityvac has some nice ones as well
 

Tinkerer Carver

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Take them the way you will eventually run the saw. I can tell you that the ex will be 95ish, this intake floor around 68-70 and the uppers 127ish with the gasket.

Please don’t, use the sanding method above, most damage below the exhaust roof usually doesn’t matter. You won’t have any irregularity of the bore where compression occurs. The rings stop riding on the plating near the exhaust floor. You just need to make sure there isn’t any transfer left and that any other damage isn’t proud to the bore.
Alright, so I finally got around to watching the mastermind videos, work has been crazy and taking my time. I have one question. Why is it necessary to go through sandpaper and then scotchbrite at the end? Could I just get a more coarse scotchbrite and go through the grits that way?
 

RI Chevy

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I'm guessing its like honing the cylinder walls. Smooth out any sanding lines, etc.
 

Redfin

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Alright, so I finally got around to watching the mastermind videos, work has been crazy and taking my time. I have one question. Why is it necessary to go through sandpaper and then scotchbrite at the end? Could I just get a more coarse scotchbrite and go through the grits that way?
You will be sanding for days with scotch brite depending how thick the transfer.
 

Mastermind

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Alright, so I finally got around to watching the mastermind videos, work has been crazy and taking my time. I have one question. Why is it necessary to go through sandpaper and then scotchbrite at the end? Could I just get a more coarse scotchbrite and go through the grits that way?

After doing a BUNCH of these......well, just trust me here. LOL
 

Tinkerer Carver

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Managed to find a spare hour or so tonight to work on the 260. Haven’t made the degree wheel yet, so it was just some grinding. Ground some ridges in the intake the way Tinman does, cleaned up the exhaust and cleaned up the lower transfers. No timing was harmed in the making of these photosE181D2F7-802E-4A02-B941-E8A11715F999.jpeg105E3758-EF44-4DB0-A93D-984024388A89.jpeg61E740B3-2E49-4D54-97B5-D56C238AF52F.jpegD10FE3EC-2A04-4F33-99B9-B128673451D1.jpeg
 
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