Cerberus
Cerberus the aardvark, not the hell-hound!!
- Local time
- 7:22 PM
- User ID
- 11523
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2020
- Messages
- 292
- Reaction score
- 120
- Location
- Florida (tampa area)
A couple of my units, the right-side one is most-visible (top of the airbox, that spray-painted-orange metal-mesh-grille covers an air-filter, all-other ports to the airbox are sealed so the filter gets maximal, clean air!)
[lol yes I still put eyeballs on my saws, "Watch your hands/self!!" ;D ]
I've seen "Frog Skinz" used on some Stihl 6*0 builds (googling will show what I mean, basically it's just "Cut/grind an opening into the plastic airbox casing, line with a filtration-material, so that your airbox/air-filter can pull more air than before")
I've been doing this for a long time, to all of my saws....am still unable to understand why, on so many climbsaws, why the airbox is inside a "plastic coffin" I mean if you look those boxes/filters are often in a tightly closed place which, bad enough as that is, it's also under-vacuum from the flywheel area!!! I'd always figured that lil portage from the airbox area to the flywheel was pushing air **into** the airbox, giving you "pressurized air" (probably 'boosted' air, albeit 0.000000001lbs PSI lol), my brain just couldn't comprehend it when, curious what my new saw's "G-Force" feature was, I learned that those lil ports are actually PULLING-FROM the airbox not pushing-to it!!!! (link, set to exact second to show what I mean:
)
So......anyone modifying airboxes routinely? I see modding a chainsaw like most things, you "eliminate bottlenecks" and, sure, the muffler's an obvious one and people are right to want to unlock that power but, when the machine is being choked/bottlenecked both at the muffler **and** the airbox, doing 1 w/o the other is almost silly in fact I've done muffler-only mods and they didn't seem to do much more than making the unit louder, muffler & airbox on the other hand always makes a marked difference in both cut-speed *and* in how hard&fast I can bury a bar w/o bogging/stalling it out!!
Thanks a ton for any&all contributions here, know I'm not the only one doing this but would love to hear others' thoughts, see what you guys do to your airboxes, etc so thanks in-advance for any contributions here
(PS:
#1 - Running Lean: Had always tuned "to perfect-sounding, then richen a lil from there", because "that's best for the engine".....but, obviously, running leaner (to a degree!!) means more-power.....I imagine hot-saw guys have-to ride this line between maximizing the "bang-per-ounce" of their fuel while still ensuring it lubes/piston doesn't seize....for practical use, I get that slightly-rich is best if/when you want your saw to be good in 5yrs time, but have heard enough comments now from people along the lines of "Just slightly-lean isn't dangerous, maybe you'll lose compression 20% faster than you otherwise would've but you won't see a seizure, you're basically going to trade-off getting a small power boost at the cost of **some** longevity, say a 5-10% power bump for a 20% shorter product-life" Gotta say, I think I'd stop running-rich if I knew it wasn't that serious (already run canned fuel, would bump it to 45:1 in such a case...my 266 polesaw doesn't have H&L adjustments so after modding the airbox I held-off on the muffler, not wanting to finish my mods/have it "high-throughput" when I couldn't richen it, now I'm considering doing it anyway and seeing how long the engine runs in that quasi-lean state!)
#2 - Retailers/brands/sources for filter material? I'll use anything to line the holes I make in the airboxes, they only need to stop large particles, but the actual filter-element right-before my carb's intake, often the OEM ones are lackluster, would LOVE if I knew some sight that sold (and explained PPI/sizing!) proper filters so I could swap most of mine!!
[lol yes I still put eyeballs on my saws, "Watch your hands/self!!" ;D ]
I've seen "Frog Skinz" used on some Stihl 6*0 builds (googling will show what I mean, basically it's just "Cut/grind an opening into the plastic airbox casing, line with a filtration-material, so that your airbox/air-filter can pull more air than before")
I've been doing this for a long time, to all of my saws....am still unable to understand why, on so many climbsaws, why the airbox is inside a "plastic coffin" I mean if you look those boxes/filters are often in a tightly closed place which, bad enough as that is, it's also under-vacuum from the flywheel area!!! I'd always figured that lil portage from the airbox area to the flywheel was pushing air **into** the airbox, giving you "pressurized air" (probably 'boosted' air, albeit 0.000000001lbs PSI lol), my brain just couldn't comprehend it when, curious what my new saw's "G-Force" feature was, I learned that those lil ports are actually PULLING-FROM the airbox not pushing-to it!!!! (link, set to exact second to show what I mean:
So......anyone modifying airboxes routinely? I see modding a chainsaw like most things, you "eliminate bottlenecks" and, sure, the muffler's an obvious one and people are right to want to unlock that power but, when the machine is being choked/bottlenecked both at the muffler **and** the airbox, doing 1 w/o the other is almost silly in fact I've done muffler-only mods and they didn't seem to do much more than making the unit louder, muffler & airbox on the other hand always makes a marked difference in both cut-speed *and* in how hard&fast I can bury a bar w/o bogging/stalling it out!!
Thanks a ton for any&all contributions here, know I'm not the only one doing this but would love to hear others' thoughts, see what you guys do to your airboxes, etc so thanks in-advance for any contributions here
(PS:
#1 - Running Lean: Had always tuned "to perfect-sounding, then richen a lil from there", because "that's best for the engine".....but, obviously, running leaner (to a degree!!) means more-power.....I imagine hot-saw guys have-to ride this line between maximizing the "bang-per-ounce" of their fuel while still ensuring it lubes/piston doesn't seize....for practical use, I get that slightly-rich is best if/when you want your saw to be good in 5yrs time, but have heard enough comments now from people along the lines of "Just slightly-lean isn't dangerous, maybe you'll lose compression 20% faster than you otherwise would've but you won't see a seizure, you're basically going to trade-off getting a small power boost at the cost of **some** longevity, say a 5-10% power bump for a 20% shorter product-life" Gotta say, I think I'd stop running-rich if I knew it wasn't that serious (already run canned fuel, would bump it to 45:1 in such a case...my 266 polesaw doesn't have H&L adjustments so after modding the airbox I held-off on the muffler, not wanting to finish my mods/have it "high-throughput" when I couldn't richen it, now I'm considering doing it anyway and seeing how long the engine runs in that quasi-lean state!)
#2 - Retailers/brands/sources for filter material? I'll use anything to line the holes I make in the airboxes, they only need to stop large particles, but the actual filter-element right-before my carb's intake, often the OEM ones are lackluster, would LOVE if I knew some sight that sold (and explained PPI/sizing!) proper filters so I could swap most of mine!!
