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Logan's 2nd 7.3 powerstroke progress thread

LAWN BOY

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Here we go again, although this one isn't nearly as clapped out as the 1996 I had on a short lived thread like this. 2001 f250 7.3 4 door short bed, 328,000 miles, very little rust, 3 sets of wheels and tires, straight piped, tuner with high idle/eco/stock/plus 2 higher levels, aftermarket radio, basically 0 blow by, automatic transmission rebuilt 18 months ago, 4x4. It drove almost 3 hours home fine, although 1st to 2nd is a bit jerky but got better after adding some ATF cuz it was a bit low, came with extra hubcaps and extra grill and winter grill cloth cover, seats are rlly nice, has gooseneck rails, makes a weird noise from the dash or tranny under acceleration, windshield is cracked, was vibrating in the front but found out the front hubs were locked in so unlocking those fixed that for the most part. Bed is newer. Was gonna do 3k plus my 16 foot trailer I have $600 into, original price was 5k, seller has a friends son deal with me cuz he was working, I pointed out the several issues and asked if there was wiggle room and he said he was told just to let me keep my trailer if I tried talking him down, so yeah, I think I gotta a pretty good deal. Plan is to daily it. And make it nicer after going thru it good.1000010971.jpg1000010972.jpg
 

OnlyStihl

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So effectively a bigger Subaru Brat? I don't understand short beds on trucks, unless you are a Californian using it to get groceries or make Costco runs... 🤣

Trailer. Equipment in the bed, trailer for cargo (in my case firewood). With my 5.7 bed I can barely fit the truck in the garage.
 

LAWN BOY

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So what did you pay?
Also have you taken the radiator cap off and also looked in the overflow?
Paid 3k, no I hadn't.
So effectively a bigger Subaru Brat? I don't understand short beds on trucks, unless you are a Californian using it to get groceries or make Costco runs... 🤣
I really wanted a long bed...
 

LAWN BOY

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Pretty sure the weird noise is either the turbo or torque converter from what research I've done, it only is present under normal or heavy acceleration, slow acceleration or revving is totally normal, which made me lean towards torque converter, but then again maybe the turbo needs the load to make the bad noise if its bearings and bushings going bad which could soon send metal shrapnel into the engine...
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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Pretty sure the weird noise is either the turbo or torque converter from what research I've done, it only is present under normal or heavy acceleration, slow acceleration or revving is totally normal, which made me lean towards torque converter, but then again maybe the turbo needs the load to make the bad noise if its bearings and bushings going bad which could soon send metal shrapnel into the engine...
How bad is it to rebuild/replace the turbo? Probably wouldn't be a bad idea even if it didn't need it.
 

LAWN BOY

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How bad is it to rebuild/replace the turbo? Probably wouldn't be a bad idea even if it didn't need it.
It's not terrible, I watched a few videos, seems that KC is by far the best highly recommended brand for rebuild kits and aftermarket turbos, even preferable over stock in almost all cases. Their basic rebuild kit which should be all I actually need is only like $80, or for a total of $450 i could have a new wheel too. Or for 1,400 total I could get a whole new stage 2 turbo from them... I was thinking about doing it anyways yeah
 

mainer_in_ak

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$5.89 a gallon of diesel. $200 fill up.

Yep the kc turbos rebuild kit is a good one. The balanced assembly gives good low-end boost down to 1600 rpms. The waste gate has to replaced as well, the springs get loose and they start dumping boost way below 20 psi . While everything is apart, the up-pipes must be replaced. They all leak due to old, flawed donut gaskets. Kc turbos sells those as well. The new gaskets are a much better design.

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mainer_in_ak

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I would think that getting after that rust would be a more responsible path than pissin away money on expensive aftermarket turbos. Phase 1: chase oil leaks.

Anyhow, another component u shouldn't overlook is the exuahst break pedestal valve. Its one of those deals that while you're in there and everything is already removed, its only $120 to reseal it:
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Regarding yer hard 1-2 shift and/or 2-3 shift, built 4r100 transmissions are supposed to have crisp, harder shifts, less heat. You won't notice the hard shifts when loaded with weight. The only atf fluid that anyone should be using in the 4r100 is mobil 1 atf. This was told to me by by my tranmission builder. No need to do that flush stupidity. Just drain the transmission pan every time u do an oil change. A simple 6 qt refresh.
 

LAWN BOY

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I would think that getting after that rust would be a more responsible path than pissin away money on expensive aftermarket turbos. Phase 1: chase oil leaks.

Anyhow, another component u shouldn't overlook is the exuahst break pedestal valve. Its one of those deals that while you're in there and everything is already removed, its only $120 to reseal it:
View attachment 488736
View attachment 488737
Regarding yer hard 1-2 shift and/or 2-3 shift, built 4r100 transmissions are supposed to have crisp, harder shifts, less heat. You won't notice the hard shifts when loaded with weight. The only atf fluid that anyone should be using in the 4r100 is mobil 1 atf. This was told to me by by my tranmission builder. No need to do that flush stupidity. Just drain the transmission pan every time u do an oil change. A simple 6 qt refresh.
Thank you for the info. From what I've seen online it's recommended just delete that exhaust valve and get the delete pedestal. What I added in terms of ATF was oreilys brand stuff, which was included with the truck.
 

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View attachment 488739
Upon inspection the shaft has no side to side or up and down play like everything I have read online told me I would find if the bearings were failing in the turbo.
Check for exhaust leaks if you hear a noise under acceleration, look over your up pipes
 

Bill G

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Pretty sure the weird noise is either the turbo or torque converter from what research I've done, it only is present under normal or heavy acceleration, slow acceleration or revving is totally normal, which made me lean towards torque converter, but then again maybe the turbo needs the load to make the bad noise if its bearings and bushings going bad which could soon send metal shrapnel into the engine...

If you remember back to your first 7.3 that would not not move I tried to lead to it being a torque converter issue.....ya remember? If you keep this truck long enough and it holds together wait until it is -20F ...hell 20F and see if she moves cold.
 

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Thank you for the info. From what I've seen online it's recommended just delete that exhaust valve and get the delete pedestal.
EBPV deletes are foolish in a cold weather climate. The exauhst brake is an excellent feature at warm-up.
 
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