Landing Saw Sharpening, Lil' Help Please!

[toolmaker]

I have been sharpening landing saw chains for a logger in a trailer set up at the landing for a repair shop.
Using an Oregon chain grinder and a new diamond 5/16 semi round wheel.
Don't know what size the chains are, but the cutters are huge compared to my 3/8-.050"-84 DL chains for my built 462C.

The landing saw chains have 96 drivers, I think they are about 5' long.

I can get pics if needed.

I'm having a problem:
When a chain is in the grinder and taking in consideration of the rotation of the wheel, there is a side that we would call grinding from inside out (left-hand cutter), and a side that we would call grinding from outside in (right-hand cutter).

The RH cutters grind up very nicely because the wheel rotation pushes the burr to the inside and not toward the cutting edge.

I have a LOT of trouble with the LH cutters because the wheel rotation pushes the burr to the outside of the cutter and it hangs on to the cutting edge.

The only way I can see to cure this is to reverse the direction of the motor rotation so that the LH cutters are also cutting from outside in; or, find a way to flip the chain around so it would be cutting from outside in.

Yes, I have tried everything I can think of to try and reduce the burr. Dressing the wheel, light cuts, heavy cut, slow down feed on motor, fast down feed on motor, rough pass then light finish pass, non-diamond wheels, you name it, I tried it...................................
Still getting a burr on LH cutters.

I am certain someone else has seen this also.

Ideas?

Thanks guys.........

 

[Philbert]

Not a big deal. The burr should disappear within a second, in use, if you are grinding correctly.

How are you ‘dressing’ a ‘diamond’ wheel?



Philbert.

 

[Wilhelm]

You may have to rewire Your grinder so You can spin it in reverse too if the burr bothers You.
Beware, the sparks will fly Your way.

I am very pleased not having this issue with my AMA Maxx as it comes with a reversible chain vice so that both LH & RH cutters are ground from the outside in and the sparks always travel away from me.



Chain bigger than .404" (right)?
Most likely 1/2".

 

[Wilhelm]

Not a big deal. The burr should disappear within a second, in use, if you are grinding correctly.

How are you? ‘dressing’ a ‘diamond’ wheel?



Philbert.

I find burr creating chains (soft chains) annoying to grind as the burr interferes with visual confirmation of the cutters being sharp.

Maybe he just doesn't like the look of the cutters having burrs.

 

[Wilhelm]

...

How are you? ‘dressing’ a ‘diamond’ wheel?



Philbert.

I think I received a small grey square "dressing stone" with each of my Diamond wheels.

So, there is that.

 

[Stump Shot]

I have been sharpening landing saw chains for a logger in a trailer set up at the landing for a repair shop.
Using an Oregon chain grinder and a new diamond 5/16 semi round wheel.
Don't know what size the chains are, but the cutters are huge compared to my 3/8-.050"-84 DL chains for my built 462C.

The landing saw chains have 96 drivers, I think they are about 5' long.

I can get pics if needed.

I'm having a problem:
When a chain is in the grinder and taking in consideration of the rotation of the wheel, there is a side that we would call grinding from inside out (left-hand cutter), and a side that we would call grinding from outside in (right-hand cutter).

The RH cutters grind up very nicely because the wheel rotation pushes the burr to the inside and not toward the cutting edge.

I have a LOT of trouble with the LH cutters because the wheel rotation pushes the burr to the outside of the cutter and it hangs on to the cutting edge.

The only way I can see to cure this is to reverse the direction of the motor rotation so that the LH cutters are also cutting from outside in; or, find a way to flip the chain around so it would be cutting from outside in.

Yes, I have tried everything I can think of to try and reduce the burr. Dressing the wheel, light cuts, heavy cut, slow down feed on motor, fast down feed on motor, rough pass then light finish pass, non-diamond wheels, you name it, I tried it...................................
Still getting a burr on LH cutters.

I am certain someone else has seen this also.

Ideas?

Thanks guys.........

Harvester chain is usually 3/4" you can measure center to center across three rivets to tell.
I guess I would have to ask the operator if there's any cutting issues, if not the burr may not be worth worrying about.

 

[beaglebriar]

Get the grinder wheel spinning real fast in the opposite direction then turn it on. It’ll keep running that direction. ( Think cordless drill with an Allen key chucked up for spooling it up) This works with my Tecomec. Oregon grinders are just rebadged Tecomecs.

 

[Brad Button]

You should not be using a Diamond wheel on a steel chain. You need to use a CBN wheel that is made for steel. Diamond is for the Carbide chain. https://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html

 

[Junk Meister]

A LOT of Good information for only 8 posts.

 

[Junk Meister]

Get the grinder wheel spinning real fast in the opposite direction then turn it on. It’ll keep running that direction. ( Think cordless drill with an Allen key chucked up for spooling it up) This works with my Tecomec. Oregon grinders are just rebadged Tecomecs.

I never gave this a thought Thanks I may give it a whirl (Or Unwhirl/LRIHW)
Had a Class Mate hit the cold start button at idle on an IH tractor. The motor made some serious noise then the motor was turning "BAAKERTZ". Didn't realize it and when he took off He ended up backing halfway over the disc before he got it shut down. I never heard how bad an ARSE Chewing he got.

 

[EFSM]

If the burr is more than what you can scrape away with your fingernail, then the cutting surface is overheating. If you have access to compressed air, you could mount a nozzle blowing on the chain. To make it even more effective, use a Venturi setup to pull some water into the air stream.

 

[Wilhelm]

Maybe the diamond wheel is too fine for a chain that big.

Have You tried grinding with a coarse grit stone wheel?

I got these "used up" band saw Weiler wheels and made a contact plate to make them fit my AMA grinder.
They carry steel really well and do not seem to glaze like the pink wheels do.
These are being used "dry" grinding industrial band saws, as such I bet the make of the wheel is quite specific for grinding Speed Steel alloys.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Also need to grind with little bursts so you don’t heat up or discolor the tooth

 

[Wilhelm]

@Philbert

Wheels say diamond on them and they have been purchased as being such.

 

[Philbert]

‘Diamond’ brand sells both diamond abrasive, and CBN abrasive plated wheels. Causes a lot of confusion.

I LIKE your ‘repurposed’ wheels! Great to be / know a machinist who can take advantage of those opportunities!

Might be helpful if the OP can post some clear, close up, photos of the cutters, burrs, etc.

Philbert

 

[hdyk]

I never gave this a thought Thanks I may give it a whirl (Or Unwhirl/LRIHW)
Had a Class Mate hit the cold start button at idle on an IH tractor. The motor made some serious noise then the motor was turning "BAAKERTZ". Didn't realize it and when he took off He ended up backing halfway over the disc before he got it shut down. I never heard how bad an ARSE Chewing he got.

use CBN when you do reverse rotation. normal could explode suddenly sometimes. pieces will hit your face or body

 

[Junk Meister]

use CBN when you do reverse rotation. normal could explode suddenly sometimes. pieces will hit your face or body

Thanks for the safety tip Many accidents happen from not being aware of potential safety risk(s).

 

[blades]

the non reversible deal on grinders was instituted years ago (OSHA) due the flinging of grinding dust at the operator. silicosis. Course the other difficulty is that an improperly tightened wheel running in reverse could come loose .

 

[Philbert]

the non reversible deal on grinders was instituted years ago (OSHA) due the flinging of grinding dust at the operator. silicosis. Course the other difficulty is that an improperly tightened wheel running in reverse could come loose .

And sparks. And damaged wheels ‘exploding’.

If you’ve never witnessed the latter, it’s really exciting, even with smaller wheels.

With larger wheels, I have had employees point to marks 20+ feet high on the ceiling, showing some resulting damage.

Philbert

 

[EFSM]

My grandpa started our shop as a sharpening service in the early 80s. Ever since, we have sharpened all manner of tools with all manner of stones and have never to my knowledge had one shatter. It is a possibility but is very unlikely if you handle the stones carefully. Franzen tells you to check the integrity of the stone by suspending it with a screwdriver through the center and knocking the outer rim. It should “ring,” not thump.