jakethesnake
I Am The Snake
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53cc
Probably similar to my DCS540, one of the most enjoyable firewood saws I have ever owned! I will approach 55's with an open mind, and see what I can come up with...A 55 is a good, solid firewood saw. Not a spectacular performer. Lots of available parts for cheap.
53cc as stated by others. A solid and dependable saw. The weakness is the intake and impulse connection. If monitored manual and paying attention to the tune, mute point.What does a 55weigh pho? 55cc I assume. Pretty good saw,by most accounts?
Regretfully I may have overlooked this family of saws, based on my lack of knowledge and relating them to box store type saw's.
Exactly. I'd grab one any day over a 450/455/460 junk sold at the box stores these days. Intended market is actually the same but in 20 years quality has dropped to maintain a price point comparative in a disposable society. A 55 will put up with lots of abuse.A 55 is a good, solid firewood saw. Not a spectacular performer. Lots of available parts for cheap.
I want one that says "Xtra pee" is small letters across the bottom...
"Piss Injected?"
Another nice 55 thread. Great pics, Jimmy. Out of all the tossed out and beat to hell saws, the 55 is always worth grabbing for a rainy day project if you run across one. Always seem to clean up respectably..., at least the mag parts. Some mighty hard paint on those rascals. Plastics are everywhere if ya need em.
A couple minor observations; The open port 55 is 53cc's (46mm). The closed port is 51cc's (45mm). The aftermarket "closed port" kits are 46mm and typically have a pretty tight combustion chamber, but excessive squish as do the OEM. Hard to guess what the actual displacement is with the kits. I've used several different ones and always seem to end up in the 160~165 psi neighborhood with gasket delete. Seems like just about any ol' AM kit works fine on a 55. LOL My last one was a NWP from DDave that was very reasonably priced and looked real nice, too.
I usually assemble the intake bulkhead to the cylinder before bolting the cylinder down. Seems easier for me to get the impulse and intake rubbers lined up that way without possibly pinching and deforming that damned impulse grommet...,which I've done. I also put the grommet in the cylinder and the intake sleeve on the bulkhead to mate them up. Get the impulse pipe started into the grommet at a slight upward angle and then rock the bulkhead/sleeve upward onto the intake flange. Pretty much ensures the impulse won't go in crooked creating a problem you may not be able to see afterward if trying to install the bulkhead straight on after the cylinder is already in place.
As for lost chain adjusters, the subject came up recently in another Husky thread. Seems like that wafer type printed circuit board material Husky used for the bolt retainer always ends up breaking and disappearing regardless of what saw it is. A light bulb went off in my head a few years ago to thread a piece of fuel line onto the bolt to keep it from backing out and it worked great. Definitely my 'go to' solution now when I run into that problem. Won't help the pin from getting mashed or the bolt getting bent by the bar being cranked down on top of it, tho.
Hooray 55?