jug wo base gasket

[huskihl]

Do you find Motoseal better than Dirko for lasting in the tube? My last tube of Dirko went hard, but may have been a case of not having enough chainsaws at the time.

I’ve never used Dirko. Heard enough on here though to know that sometimes it gets hard in the tube. It’s basically high temp silicone so that makes sense

 

[Woodwackr]

I've had Hylomar Blue washout on an ill-fitting base adapter and haven't touched it since, at least for sealing bases anyways. It probably has other better suited uses than that.

I’ve only used it as insurance on crank seals, especially if there is any doubt on the seal seat, like scratches.

 

[Woodwackr]

I’ve never used Dirko. Heard enough on here though to know that sometimes it gets hard in the tube. It’s basically high temp silicone so that makes sense

I’ve only used it on clamshells. Moto on all others.

 

[huskihl]

I’ve only used it on clamshells. Moto on all others.

Against the advice of what others have said, I’ve used motoseal on probably 20 clamshells and don’t know of any failures.

 

[Stump Shot]

I keep my opened tubes of sealant and epoxy in a widemouth canning jar, it helps keep them fresher than if out in the open air.

 

[Chainmale]

I keep my opened tubes of sealant and epoxy in a widemouth canning jar, it helps keep them fresher than if out in the open air.

Good idea. I think I'll start doing that.

 

[drf256]

I prefer Dirko to all. It’s the smoothest and easiest to remove if you pull the jug. Only downside is the entire tube hardening.

I’ve used Donnieboy’s trick of petroleum jelly at the tip when done. It works, but is a PITA.

Moto seal became my go to. The issue is that it seams to dry before assembly and gets a bit uneven. Not bad to remove if needed.

518 works well, but a huge Beoch to remove if ever needed, at least for me.

Besides the sealant, there are some saws being built with very close tolerances that won’t allow a BGD without other mods. Sometimes the cylinder extension will hit, others times the jug seating will be inhibited by something on the case.

For instance, the Husky 562 either needs case relieved for the transfer cover screws, or the screw heads relieved. Otherwise the base of the jug won’t fully seat.

 

[Shane¹]

This kinda sounds like an oil thread lol. Besides 518 sucking to take back apart has anyone had any significant failures with it? I get it for free from work is it worth trying on a 350 cylinder base or just buy a tube of dirko or others?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Against the advice of what others have said, I’ve used motoseal on probably 20 clamshells and don’t know of any failures.

I’ve not had any issues with motoseal on clamshells other than one 250 and that wasn’t the sealers fault the pan wasn’t flat and after the 4th time apart i found that out and switched it. Saws been good for 2 1/2 years now and I saw it about every 2-3 months for awhile. Made no money on that one just knowledge to check the pans for being warped.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

This kinda sounds like an oil thread lol. Besides 518 sucking to take back apart has anyone had any significant failures with it? I get it for free from work is it worth trying on a 350 cylinder base or just buy a tube of dirko or others?

I’m sure it will be fine it’s just when it’s a pain to remove or clean up some of the guys especially when working up a recipe probably want fast and easy when pulling the cylinder a half dozen or more times when changing things small amounts.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

This kinda sounds like an oil thread lol. Besides 518 sucking to take back apart has anyone had any significant failures with it? I get it for free from work is it worth trying on a 350 cylinder base or just buy a tube of dirko or others?

518 will only seal/fill a .001-.002 gap. I’ve had it fail on cylinder bases where the case surfaces have scratches and imperfections.
I switched to HT dirko and haven’t had an issue. I apply it very lightly with a q tip.
Surface prep is key for any sealant. Clean clean clean and dry. Any oil residue will on the surfaces will ruin your day

 

[Shane¹]

Sounds like just by the dirko and not have to worry about it

 

[MAF143]

I've had the same tube of Permatex Motoseal for 6 years and it's still like the day I got it. I put it in a rolled up ziplock baggie to keep it sealed up tight. I've done clamshells and pro saws (anything I work on, mowers etc...) but only use it on maybe 2 or 3 saws a year cuz I'm just a weekend hack. I usually wait overnight to fire up the saw, but I've had no failures of it yet.

 

[jacktheripper]

I use motoseal for base gaskets and dirko for case halves/clamshells. Since motoseal cures so fast, I just fire up the saw when I get everything back together. I have had no issues with this method.

 

[EFSM]

I use The Right Stuff (permatex) and it works well, but dries very fast.

 

[Duce]

I use The Right Stuff (permatex) and it works well, but dries very fast.

Right stuff is not gasoline stable, per Permatex. Oil yes, gasoline no.

 

[whitesnake]

Right stuff is not gasoline stable, per Permatex. Oil yes, gasoline no.

I think you’ll be ok. Except you might need a slide hammer to get the cylinder back off lol.

 

[dangerousatom]

Ive used RTV-High Temp Copper 81878 without fail so far. One saws going on 5-6 years at Id guess 70-80 tanks.
.
.

 

[EFSM]

Right stuff is not gasoline stable, per Permatex. Oil yes, gasoline no.

Correct. I don't know if I have ever run across a truly fuel resistant sealant (Dirko included).

I think you’ll be ok. Except you might need a slide hammer to get the cylinder back off lol.

@whitesnake Sounds like you know the stuff.

 

[Duce]

Correct. I don't know if I have ever run across a truly fuel resistant sealant (Dirko included).


@whitesnake Sounds like you know the stuff.

That’s why I have used it to rebuild a Muncie 465 transmission used in my Jeep. Worked well.