if I understood my JRed correct it was more like -20 to -30 they had had issue, extreme cold days.I was using it in -5 to -10 °C
Very interesting. I have a 2015 saw that I got in Dec. of 2015. It had the same bog problem from new just like Steve. I quit using it till I could send it to Randy because I intended to get it ported anyway. When I got it back the problem was gone. Thing runs mean! It's been fine till this last weekend when I had it out cutting wood. It was as cold or colder than when I got the saw new & had the problem. It started happening again. When I got it back from Randy weather had gotten quite a bit milder. Now you guys have me wondering if it is in fact temperature related. I'm guessing based on what Tor said that mine could have the problem carb. on it based its year of manufacturing which is 2015 based on serial number. Any comments from you fellows would be appriciated.
I understand. I was just wondering if anyone could tell which carb. my saw had on it if it was made in 2015I can't really comment until I run it this weekend. It will be about 40°F
AT7 is what your 2015 model should have.I understand. I was just wondering if anyone could tell which carb. my saw had on it if it was made in 2015
I've been really torn on which new 50cc saw to buy. Stihl is the priciest. Husky seems to be the most nimble and zippiest. Dolmar the least exciting, but maybe the most dependable.
This thread has helped me refine my feelings about the Husky. I want to want one, but the idea of a new saw that is finicky is worrisome when I'm buying from a dealer in another state.
Thank you sir. The AT12 is the more desirable of the two correct?AT7 is what your 2015 model should have.
AT 12 came in 2016.
I was using it in -5 to -10 °C
I was using it in -5 to -10 °C
Thanks Bob! I completely forgot about that little blue boot that came with the saw. It was around 14 degrees when the saw was exhibiting the problems. I'll have to remember that when it's cold & I run it again. Thanks again!At those temps, it would be a good idea to install that blue thing that covers the lower half of the starter to reduce cold air intake. That's why it's included with 550's, but hardly any of them ever get put on the saws in reality. But the owner's manual does recommend it at those temps.
Carb? There's a stupid amount of carbs. AT7, AT7A, or AT7B? See what I mean? LOL When doing a firmware update it does ask which one. That "hidden screw" was only on the early AT1 carbs, so don't bother looking for it on the 7's. The AT12 did come out in 2016 as Tor posted.
The AT12 fuel inlet nipple exits the carb at a different angle; pointing downward; not directly forward into the fuel line anchored in the intake boot flange. The fuel line just comes up into the carb like most saws. This of course requires a different, shorter fuel line. Other option is to trim 26mm off the original fuel line. If you don't it will kink and choke off the flow of fuel.
Most saws don't have these problems. My guess is that this could be either the cold, or that fact the saw is not fully broken in yet, or the combination of the two. Just run it some more and see wher it goes. You've got a good dealer, so a little more time on the saw won't be a problem for him and will make it easier for him to sort out what ever he might need to do.
thanks Bob, you are better to explain then what I am.At those temps, it would be a good idea to install that blue thing that covers the lower half of the starter to reduce cold air intake. That's why it's included with 550's, but hardly any of them ever get put on the saws in reality. But the owner's manual does recommend it at those temps.
Carb? There's a stupid amount of carbs. AT7, AT7A, or AT7B? See what I mean? LOL When doing a firmware update it does ask which one. That "hidden screw" was only on the early AT1 carbs, so don't bother looking for it on the 7's. The AT12 did come out in 2016 as Tor posted.
The AT12 fuel inlet nipple exits the carb at a different angle; pointing downward; not directly forward into the fuel line anchored in the intake boot flange. The fuel line just comes up into the carb like most saws. This of course requires a different, shorter fuel line. Other option is to trim 26mm off the original fuel line. If you don't it will kink and choke off the flow of fuel.
Most saws don't have these problems. My guess is that this could be either the cold, or that fact the saw is not fully broken in yet, or the combination of the two. Just run it some more and see wher it goes. You've got a good dealer, so a little more time on the saw won't be a problem for him and will make it easier for him to sort out what ever he might need to do.
I completely agree. So many knowledgeable people from all over the world. When I'm dealing with a problem like this I'm typically apt to draw the worst conclusions then someone like Spike 60 come along with a logical thing to try that makes complete sense! It might cure the problem & it might not but I would've never thought about it myself. Thanks to all for your insight!Thank you Spike60. I was hesitant to put the blue thing on because It may have warmed up above the max temperature on the cover and I would have fried my new baby! I feel there is more information in this thread then the autotune/m tronic thread in the tech section!
Where did you get that? What length, gauge, etc.? Looks sharp together!I got my sugihara bar today! Yay!
View attachment 49499
Where did you get that? What length, gauge, etc.? Looks sharp together!