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Husqvarna problems 372 X-torqs & 570-576's

Cutmaster

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What's a a base gasket delete? You use a silicone or what?

pro94lt
Yes, I buy all of our saws in quantity.

I had a huge problem 3 years ago when I bought 26 Dolmar PS-7900's.
I Went on AS & everyone though I was nuts, turns out Eric Copsey
was extremely puzzled by this as he believed these were decent saws,
so I shipped him one, the day he got it he emailed me with pics showing the carb
with some kind of white flaky dust in the carb.
He rebuilt the carb and problems solved!
He asked me to look a few other carbs on these new saws and they were all like the first.
Long story and many Hours of work by Eric we concluded this was not Dolmars fault,
but the way the dealer I bought them from stored them.
He didn't store them in a nice building, he stored them for years in a steel building
sitting on a pallet with a dirt floor & leaky roof, hot humid weather to -20 below until I bought them.
My sons and I work 16+ hours a day so I ordered brand new carbs for all of the other saws along with the HD air filter kits
and everything was fixed perfectly.
I actually had Eric work his magic on the one saw I sent him just to see what a modded saw was all about WOW!
That SOB was a mad dog! However I sold it a couple months later to pay for all the new carbs & have kept most of the others.

No way no how am I saying Husqvarna or Jonsered is to blame for my issues.

OK, went to my Local Husqvarna dealer to buy a some 390XP's and like always he doesn't stock anything other than occasional use small saws and firewood saws.
So, I called a Jonsered dealer and he said he would buy back a CS-2172 & CS-2188 if I didn't like them.
I told him about my problems with all my 372 X-Torq saws & he said Walbro had a problem with a limited number of 2010 372X-Torq saws running lean exactly the year my 372 X-torqs are, don't know if they are in the serial number range or not since we've moved farther north since I purchased them.
He said I may want to purchase a new Walbro RWJ-4-1 carb and see if that fixes the problems, less than $100 it's worth a try.
My new Jonsered CS-2172 & CS-2188 both run perfect, especially the CS-2188, awesome power, lightweight awesome saw!
I may just order a lot of Jonsered CS-2188's especially if the new Walbro RWJ-4-1 carb fixes our 372 X-torqs.

As for the 570's-576's I'll sell them on Ebay.
 

XP_Slinger

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What's a a base gasket delete? You use a silicone or what?

Not silicone. You MUST use a sealant specifically designed to be oil and fuel resistant such as 3-Bond 1194 or Yamabond. If you use anything else the sealant WILL breakdown from exposure to fuel and the subsequent vacuum leak will burn the saw down. If done properly, the increased compression of deleting the base gasket gives a noticeable gain in lugging torque. Best thing about it is its darn near a free upgrade. The only cost is $10 for the tube of sealant and about an hour of bench time.

My X-torq is a 14' model and that may be why I haven't had the carb issues you've experienced.
 

Cutmaster

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Ok, the same stuff we use on the grand kids Yamaha YZ85!
We use Yamabond 4 on our snowmobiles too! Awesome stuff!

OK, we've run the new CS-2172 & CS-2188 at least 60 hours now with not a single issue, great saws!
Going to order a number of CS-2188's or 390xp's these are awesome saws & will replace our 394xp's.

New question on a Carb swap may need MasterMind to get involved with this one:
Instead of using Walbro RWJ-4-1 carbs with 19.05mm venturi that some of you advised above, I think this is my problem with my 372XT's, pulled the mufflers off of all of them on sunday and pistons & rings are scratched, not horrible but not good either, so I may as well just do the entire swap new cylinder kits & carbs and be done.
I would like to use Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs with 18.25mm venturi in the 371xp's, 372xpw's & 372XT's
I have a drawer with 13 brand new Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs. I "think" they were for my 394xp's maybe 395xp's not sure.

In a nutshell, can I replace Walbro HD-12 carbs 17.46mm venturi with Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs 18.25mm venturi on OE 372xp's?
Or, do I have to buy all new Walbro HD-12 carbs?


Anyone know what the diff is with these cylinder kits is?
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503626473
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503939372

I cannot reach Baileys to price check them. Baileys blocked all viasat customers.
 

decableguy2000

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Pretty sure the WJ71 are for a 394 and no external pulse port.
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503939372 = EPA 2 ring
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503626473 = Non EPA single ring

Jeremy
 

mdavlee

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I used black rtv once for sealant. Lasted over a year and probably 15-20 gallons of fuel. It just has to be clean and dry when you apply it.
 

idiotwithasaw

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I would just use your xtorq carbs, get a kit for them and run them through the ultrasonic. Get am clean and they should work great. I like making what I have work save a lot of money that way. By the time you buy a bunch of new carbs and all the intake setup you would be getting close to a new saw when you factor in the cylinder kits too. If you use the rwj-4 all you would need is the boot.
 

38f20

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I've never used the decomp button on my x-torq and it has always started like any other saw. I did remove the stops on the carb adjustments, too lean from the factory, and it idles well too. Not ported these saws seem to sip fuel with pretty good performance.
 

beaglebriar

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Ok, the same stuff we use on the grand kids Yamaha YZ85!
We use Yamabond 4 on our snowmobiles too! Awesome stuff!

OK, we've run the new CS-2172 & CS-2188 at least 60 hours now with not a single issue, great saws!
Going to order a number of CS-2188's or 390xp's these are awesome saws & will replace our 394xp's.

New question on a Carb swap may need MasterMind to get involved with this one:
Instead of using Walbro RWJ-4-1 carbs with 19.05mm venturi that some of you advised above, I think this is my problem with my 372XT's, pulled the mufflers off of all of them on sunday and pistons & rings are scratched, not horrible but not good either, so I may as well just do the entire swap new cylinder kits & carbs and be done.
I would like to use Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs with 18.25mm venturi in the 371xp's, 372xpw's & 372XT's
I have a drawer with 13 brand new Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs. I "think" they were for my 394xp's maybe 395xp's not sure.

In a nutshell, can I replace Walbro HD-12 carbs 17.46mm venturi with Walbro WJ-71-1 carbs 18.25mm venturi on OE 372xp's?
Or, do I have to buy all new Walbro HD-12 carbs?


Anyone know what the diff is with these cylinder kits is?
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503626473
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503939372

I cannot reach Baileys to price check them. Baileys blocked all viasat customers.
WJ 71 1 definitely doesn't look like a good replacement for the HD-12 to me. Unless you are having issues with your current HD-12's ID leave them. If you want to replace the RWJ-4 carbs after switching to the OE top ends you could try a couple aftermarket HD-12 knock offs to save some coin. I know people here have used them with good results.
 

Cutmaster

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I rebuilt 2 of our ( my ) 372XT's
372xp Cylinder Kit # 503626473
De-comp valve deleted ( never use them anyway )
Aftermarket unlimited ignition coil
Aftermarket intake manifold
cylinder base gasket deleted
dual port muffler ( All of our saws get the muffler mods on day 1 )
HD-12 carb caps removed
WSR6F plug
40:1 mix
Both run like a charm!
Cold start = 3-4 pulls
Hot start 1 pull
I'm happy!
Thanks for all the help everyone!
 

Keith Gandy

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Sure blows that you need to go back to an older design on your newer saws to make them run right and last, what's that saying for technology!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad my 1st 372xp is a 2007 OE!!
 

Brush Ape

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Exactly, they all run very lean.
I like a nice "tan" color on the spark plug like I get from my 371's, 372's, & 2171's
You can 4 Stroke these Phase 1 saws no problem, you can get them to run so rich at WOT it's like sending smoke signals.
All X-Torque saws have a very light touch of tan but mostly yellowish white color on the plugs,
No matter what we do they won't stay running the least bit rich.
When running in red oak Tune the saw so it's slightly rich, after 1 tank of gas saws go right back to running lean, re tune to run slightly rich and saws go right back to running lean. Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.
Maybe this will help:
I own a Logging & lumber company I started it back in 1982, between 3 & 8 men running saws at least 10hrs a day 6 days a week.
In winter temps reach -20 ( Northern Minnesota ) Summer temps reach upper 90's.
These saw run Hard all day everyday non stop.
371, 372, 2171 = # 503281805 = Walbro HD-12 Carb / Remove Limit Caps & Can Tune Easily
372 X-Torq = 522858701 = Walbro RWJ-4 Carb / Remove Limit Caps & Will Not Stay In Tune, Runs Very Lean Again,
On 1 Saw my Dealer replaced Cylinder, Piston & Carb. Saw Ran Great for a week, then started running lean again,
even melted the blue cap off the decompression valve.
Anyone know if I can replace the Walbro RWJ-4 Carb with the Walbro HD-12 Carb?
570, 575, 576 = 580735801 = Zama C1M-EL28 Carb / Remove Limit Caps & Cannot Stay In Tune, Runs Very Lean Again.
576 XP Auto Tune I'll just sell these, they don't run for crap, 1 stalled & died on me felling an 80' white oak, it damn near killed me.
I cannot believe these Auto Tunes are Professional Logging saws.
Also, All X-Torq saws loose compression very fast, say 175PSI new drop to 140-130PSI after 60-70 Hours.
I'm sure this is because these saws are running too lean / hot.
Stihl guys are going to say to buy Stihl, however I have always had 2 problems with Stihl.
Closest dealer is 2 hours away & I need to buy my parts online, very hard to find IPL's for Stihl, beside that I have roughly 50 of these X-Torq saws, I'm in these too deep.

please step away from the crack pipe.....
 

Ron660

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How do u like husky compared to Stihl?
I haven't ran that Husky enough to be a fair comparison. I've used less than one tank but so far I REALLY like it. I'll run it next weekend on several oaks so I'll have a better answer then. I'm bringing the 660 along for backup. I'll let you know which one gets the cigar.
 

Locust Cutter

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My NEW 372x-torq starts easy and runs strong. But I never ran it stock...only ported.[/QUOTE

I've never run a stock 372 AFAIK, but mine has always started hard when cold, especially after not being run for a month or two. To get around this, I dribble a bit of mix down the stack before I try to fire it up, which greatly hastens the process. Warm it's usually a one pull (or 1/2 pull) affair. I think it has to do with the amount of Timing advance that Stumpy gave it.

I haven't ran that Husky enough to be a fair comparison. I've used less than one tank but so far I REALLY like it. I'll run it next weekend on several oaks so I'll have a better answer then. I'm bringing the 660 along for backup. I'll let you know which one gets the cigar.

Now comparing a 372 to a 660 is a bit like a 355 Chevy to a Dodge 440, but in proper trim a good 372 will give a 660 a good run (or spanking) in 20" wood and smaller. Both are good saws though.
 
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