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Husqvarna o ring substitutions

Ronie

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I've heard of guys using all kind of stuff here. At this point I prefer having the oem o ring, but I've heard everything on this from using nothing, to using grease, loctite, threebond ... etc. it doesn't take much to seal it up, the oem o ring makes most sense to me because its easily dismantled later :)
In my 371 I used a thick o ring I picked up at Napa.
 

Ronie

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Found some 288 o rings on Amazon. I tried to post a link but it gets replaced with an Amazon ad.

upload_2020-3-24_9-49-55.png
 
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wcorey

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Instead of gratuity here, I'm getting whining that I'm not feeding you guys in the way you like to be fed.

:confused:

Seems kinda rude to me

My apologies for being an impatient, rude old f>cking whiner Matty but you know we always appreciate the info.

Don't know why but I'll read through pages of stuff for a few small tidbits but can't get myself the sit through youtube vids.
I think maybe because I can skim over text at my own pace and hover where needed but with videos I feel stuck in first gear with the occasional braking and jamming into reverse...
 

Mattyo

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You can speed up the vids if you like. 1.5 to 1.75 speed helps sometimes.
 

Lightning Performance

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Wtf is all this O ring talk?...
I don't work on ohfortyfo much.
Seems these Peskys have rings all over. These bishes cheap or can I just go to the HVAC stash and have no worries?

I'm building 394-5 and 288. Need I be concerned beyond the fuel caps? Idk...

If your talking about crank bushing O rings I don't use them.

Clue an old guy in...
 

Mastermind

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My apologies for being an impatient, rude old f>cking whiner Matty but you know we always appreciate the info.

Don't know why but I'll read through pages of stuff for a few small tidbits but can't get myself the sit through youtube vids.
I think maybe because I can skim over text at my own pace and hover where needed but with videos I feel stuck in first gear with the occasional braking and jamming into reverse...

For me it is about being able to go back to this thread and read the information. When it is in writing, we can copy and paste to search, or save to our notes for future reference. If it is in a video, it is much less useful.
 

Mattyo

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394 395 288 272 etc use an "xring" on the oiler to seal the oiler output to chassis oil inlet.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...dt9cwykhshrqchsisbjdwob_rnvpuhbhociasqavd_bwe

Jacks has it at about 5 bux a shot. They really are pennies a piece.


288 has an o ring that seals the oiler to the crankcase at the outer race of the bearing. Same with 272.... again...o rings are saw specific and usually husky charges 4 or 5 bux a shot when they are only pennies each from a supply house.

Annoyingly....these o rings are required to be changed when doing a rebuild yet they are not included in gasket / seal kits.
 

Lightning Performance

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For me it is about being able to go back to this thread and read the information. When it is in writing, we can copy and paste to search, or save to our notes for future reference. If it is in a video, it is much less useful.
Great point with all that youtube stuff going down
 

Lightning Performance

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394 395 288 272 etc use an "xring" on the oiler to seal the oiler output to chassis oil inlet.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...dt9cwykhshrqchsisbjdwob_rnvpuhbhociasqavd_bwe

Jacks has it at about 5 bux a shot. They really are pennies a piece.


288 has an o ring that seals the oiler to the crankcase at the outer race of the bearing. Same with 272.... again...o rings are saw specific and usually husky charges 4 or 5 bux a shot when they are only pennies each from a supply house.

Annoyingly....these o rings are required to be changed when doing a rebuild yet they are not included in gasket / seal kits.
Franks for update. These wrecks may not even have anything left in them. My 394 oil pumps were minty and the rubber case bushing pin thingy :)
 

Mattyo

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all these rubber bits add up... husky / stihl / whoever price all this stuff towards blatantly unreasonable so they can get the cost of a rebuild so high as to not be worth it ...vs a new saw. AND they don't include these in gasket sets... dunno why other than it just makes rebuilds more difficult ... needlessly. I've waited weeks for these stupid o rings to be in stock / shipped/ backordered / whatever which means productivity is lost.

so, the solution is to figure out how to do the same exact job, easier, cheaper, faster ... at the same quality level. now the snag i've run into is that I don't really KNOW what the husky oem material is for the orings. I don't think they are fancy enough to be using viton, but technically Buna N isn't as gas resistant and it probably should be for these applications.

???


the 044 has a pto bushing similar to 372/371, and the 372 uses a tiny tiny tiny thin thin thin o ring to seal it up, and it would make sense that the 044 440 does similar, but I've never seen it on an ipl.




i'm doing my level best to share relevant information with this community, and it gets met with whining. I think that'd annoy anyone. if anyone wants to help further the study here thats awesome, I'm all ears, especially in regards to the proper o ring material here.
 

qurotro

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I'm no exper or smart ass, how about FKM rubber? I've read they tolerate high temp better. I bough bulk FKM rubber hose as fuel lines. 3mm x 6mm for husky.
 

angelo c

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I'm no exper or smart ass, how about FKM rubber? I've read they tolerate high temp better. I bough bulk FKM rubber hose as fuel lines. 3mm x 6mm for husky.
Yer not much of a "smart ass" as I would know....I'm the North East Regional "S.A" Rep....and I know one when I see one...
You can refer to the S.A. handbook Pg 214/chpt 14 for standards and regulations required for qualifications and certifications.
thank you
 

angelo c

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angelo ... I don't know if stihl shows an o ring for that application, i've never seen one on an ipl

for the old guys who are impatient, ... but also know more than me about o ring materials, is there anything wrong with BUNA N material in this case?

i'd prefer viton I think, due to better gas resistance, but I can't find it in as many sizes as Buna N ...

also not sure what the oem material is, though if I had to guess I'd say Buna N or similar
Never seen one...that's why I asked. Doesnt mean it ain't there....just means I'm gittin old and muh eyes only see young blonde gurls
A
 

Johnmn

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I just did some reading on buna vs viton.
For chainsaws in my opinion buna is perfect it's good up to 250*f I'm guessing the case doesn't get close to that during operation. Plus buna seals down to - 22*f which viton only seals to 5*f but its good up to 400*f. During operation if your case gets over 250 degrees your saw is F-ed anyway.
 

Lightning Performance

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Here's what I know to be true Matty.
I leave speculation to others.
It's lunch time here.
My 288 is an open bearing on the pto side, no nutin... with crank and cases together. Not much else there.

Better materials of high quality usually improve performance in sever applications involving heat and vicious possibly corrosive, caustic, acidic or degrading (changing) fluids.
Heat just speeds up the process most times.
Cold is whole nuther thing.
Outright friction wear, and combating it, is a science of complete composition control of the correct materials applied accordingly in the correct environment. All BS... just replace it.

Buna is a no go on 20%+ eth gas.
10% eth is a slippery slope with it in fuel systems involving natural or synthetic rubbers.

I run eth pump fuel in my OEM Stihl saws with AM fuel lines... the good ones... they need replacing every year or three. Saws that go out get all OEM everything if it is customer requested. Everyone is informed of what you pay for.. like most places. The carb diaphragm in my saws get soaked in twosmoke oil every time I do fuel lines. Yours would get replaced with your choice of parts available today, new. Eth makes impulse lines hard over time. :nusenuse: Rarely change them on my Stihl saws but I don't cut with dull chains. Does the opposite to fuel lines... they melt in the wet or the tank and hardened outside the line... dry rot as the material is dehydrated. Just keep replacing the line/o ring/bushing or buy the newer lines/o ring/ bushing and don't store with eth fuel period.
Storage is a period of none use for three weeks in this environment here at my stable. Fuel caps and seals seem to be affected very little. I have an idea why but this was about facts.

I'm sure all these old Husky saws could use O ring updates to better materials appropriate for the task at hand. Buna does compress better than most if you use oversized ring thickness. Not always wanted or welcome in certain applications. Others it may be an improvement.
Buna rings are OK imo on fuel with ten percent ethanol or less if if the tool is used on a regular basis. All my equipment is stored with aviation ll100 with or without oil mixes... VP oil is my choice for long term storage and the mill saws... storage is longer than one month.
Tools in storage here come out ready... serviced before storage. I have zero issues with stuffs at start up. Store it with eth and you replace the fuel system.

Husky is all new to me.
O rings have never been an issue... I see few husky saws.
Friction is a *b-word.

If your rubber is exposed to oil, gas, diesel or liquidcoal, methanol or other fuels like JPL stuffs... make sure you have the right "rubber" for the right environment and operating conditions as well as temps.

Remember Columbia?

Some material might be bad in the cold or the heat. Manufactures make choices for reasons based on lots of factors:nut:

I'll go away now. The sun is out and these logs don't move themselves.

Afternoon everyone
:nusee:
 

Mattyo

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The 288 o ring attaches to the oiler.... and mates at the outer race / crankcase


The concern of Buna n isn't temp. ..it's the gas resistance
 

Johnmn

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The 288 o ring attaches to the oiler.... and mates at the outer race / crankcase


The concern of Buna n isn't temp. ..it's the gas resistance
I'm guessing it's the ethanol, I run e-free fuel in all my small engines
 
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