Husqvarna 61 oiler problem

[Boomer2230]

I picked up a basket case 61 for 60 bucks, got it all cleaned up and running now, runs and sounds great, but its not pumping any oil onto the bar. The plastic worm gear is in good shape, not missing any teeth, and the top gear it tight to the shaft and turning properly.

Is there a way to take the oil pump apart? Or is it a replace piece when it wears out?

 

[Boomer2230]

I have tried to push out the stopper pin on the left side of the steel round gear and it won't move for me.

 

[Tugg]

On the 266, which they are the same or very similar, the is a larger screw (maybe 288) and a very small screw, and the working parts all come out of it. If I remember correctly. If your saw had issues with gas varnish in the tank you might check your oil pickup and hose to make sure they aren’t plugged. They are serviceable if something is wrong. If the gear on the pump moves and the orifices are not clogged they usually work. They are pretty common used and aftermarket. And your bearing seal, oring and another small oring are all part of the pump. I have a 266 the little screw came out on and bent the shaft on the the plunger gear. I replaced it and put loctite on the screw.

 

[Boomer2230]

Oil tank line was taken out and checked, and the brass filter, I've tried to get the pin out but I think I might just get another and go from there.

 

[Boomer2230]

Can anyone confirm that the original pumps were painted orange? The oiler on my 162se is orange, and the 61's is not painted.

 

[slackinoff]

Original, as in OEM? I think only the very early saws and the 66s had painted orange pumps.

I belive you have to undo a very small screw on the metal round gear to take them apart. I've heard it can be very difficult to do. I'd also try spraying some wd40 into the oil pump entry port or the exit port and spin the gear to see if you can get it pumping. Not sure which direction, but you will see if it's pumping pretty quick one direction or the other.

Also try adjusting the oil flow screw. See if that helps. I forget how to tell which way is max or min.

 

[slackinoff]

Oh and as a reply to what you mentioned in my thread -

That is a special "x ring" type oring. See link below for info. They have them on ebay as well but are pricey for what they are, but meh. Sometimes they sell them with the large oring that goes on the oil pump as well.

See link below for that xring and also the two large orings that seal oil pump and the crank oil seal holder on flywheel side. You might want to replace that large oring on the oil pump side while you have it apart. Or you can motoseal it.

Scroll halfway down first page for specifics unless you want to watch the video.

@Mattyo did a heck of a good job getting this info put together. Saved me a lot of grief on my build


https://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-o-ring-substitutions.19975/

 

[Boomer2230]

Original, as in OEM? I think only the very early saws and the 66s had painted orange pumps.

I belive you have to undo a very small screw on the metal round gear to take them apart. I've heard it can be very difficult to do. I'd also try spraying some wd40 into the oil pump entry port or the exit port and spin the gear to see if you can get it pumping. Not sure which direction, but you will see if it's pumping pretty quick one direction or the other.

Also try adjusting the oil flow screw. See if that helps. I forget how to tell which way is max or min.

Yea the 78-162se has an orange oiler.

I was able to get the screw out of the round metal gear, but the gear doesn't move and I can't get the pin beside the gear to move.

 

[slackinoff]

@Boomer2230 - oh I see. Did the plastic gear get torn up? Seems like if that metal gear is frozen it would tear up the plastic drive gear. At least both of those parts are easy and cheap to find on here or ebay.

 

[Boomer2230]

@Boomer2230 - oh I see. Did the plastic gear get torn up? Seems like if that metal gear is frozen it would tear up the plastic drive gear. At least both of those parts are easy and cheap to find on here or ebay.

I think I'm going to just replace the entire unit, new one has all the rubbers and gears with it.

 

[slackinoff]

@Boomer2230 - good idea!

My oiler stays adjusted to the max and oils really well. Id suggest probably doing the same as long as it's not too crazy. Also note on how proud the crank seal is. Just so know its right. Only takes a min to measure it with calipers.

 

[Boomer2230]

The aftermarket oiler came in, robbed the o-ring off it and put it back together and its working good now. Missing rubber was the fix. Now I have 2-62cc saws to play with on the wood pile.

 

[Boomer2230]

@Boomer2230 - good idea!

My oiler stays adjusted to the max and oils really well. Id suggest probably doing the same as long as it's not too crazy. Also note on how proud the crank seal is. Just so know its right. Only takes a min to measure it with calipers.

I'll probably put the ones you sent me on the saw when they arrive.

 

[Boomer2230]

Well if it isn't one thing it's another, recoil starter *s-word the bed on me, going to have to get a new one. Hopefully I can find a decent used oem one.

 

[slackinoff]

They are available on eBay. It's one of those items that is priced higher than you would think. Not sure why.

Chainsawr.com has them and the recoil parts for cheaper than ebay. The starters are pretty simple on these if you wanted to find what part *s-word the bed.

 

[slackinoff]

Also check the starter pawls. I have two saws recently that have had the pawl bolts loosen up and cause issues.

 

[Boomer2230]

Ok, well after working on the 61 today, got her up and running strong, and I think I figured out my oiler problem. Apparently the threads on the plastic worm gear got messed up and there were just 2 straight teeth. Going to pick up some tomorrow at the local shop.

 

[Boomer2230]

Oh and as a reply to what you mentioned in my thread -

That is a special "x ring" type oring. See link below for info. They have them on ebay as well but are pricey for what they are, but meh. Sometimes they sell them with the large oring that goes on the oil pump as well.

See link below for that xring and also the two large orings that seal oil pump and the crank oil seal holder on flywheel side. You might want to replace that large oring on the oil pump side while you have it apart. Or you can motoseal it.

Scroll halfway down first page for specifics unless you want to watch the video.

@Mattyo did a heck of a good job getting this info put together. Saved me a lot of grief on my build


https://opeforum.com/threads/husqvarna-o-ring-substitutions.19975/

Ok after more time sober working on things, what do you mean by x-ring?
And do you have pics of it in place?
Thanks

 

[slackinoff]

@Boomer2230 -

See below pics.

Here is what an x-ring looks like. Its a oring that has an x shape.



Here is where it goes. See red arrow pointing to oiler output.

 

[Boomer2230]

Ok got everything installed on the OEM oiler and went out to the wood pile, after a tank of fuel, I might have only used 1/4 a tank of bar oil. I have the line on the adjustment thing at the 4 mark. At that setting the metal gear goes its full stroke. Am I doing something backwards?
I have the 162se set at the same mark and it pumps about 1/2 to 2/3rd's of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.
The only thing I haven't changed is the oil line into the pump.