Husqvarna 350 wont run

[oologahan]

I can get it to start for a few seconds, but it dies right after that, only starts and runs for a few seconds on choke or half choke, when I push the choke off, it dies. If I leave it running with the choke on it dies in a few seconds as well. I have a factory rebuilt carb on it and all the fuel lines check out ok. There is a brass perforated collar that goes into the rubber boot and it actually ran a little longer when I forgot to put it in. I found no cracks in the intake boot, but it was really hard to tell with the boot on, could it be the boot or maybe crank seals Thanks

 

[EFSM]

Use a can of carb cleaner or ether with a straw preferably and spray around the crank seals, base gasket, and intake boot. If it runs longer or dies as soon as you spray at a certain place, good chance you've got a leak there.

 

[oologahan]

Use a can of carb cleaner or ether with a straw preferably and spray around the crank seals, base gasket, and intake boot. If it runs longer or dies as soon as you spray at a certain place, good chance you've got a leak there.

Thank you, that helps a bunch

 

[old guy]

Hows the impulse line?

 

[oologahan]

Hows the impulse line?

Its good, I've sprayed carb clear around the intake boot and the saw runs as long as keep spraying, I have a air leak at the intake boot/partition

 

[oologahan]

Use a can of carb cleaner or ether with a straw preferably and spray around the crank seals, base gasket, and intake boot. If it runs longer or dies as soon as you spray at a certain place, good chance you've got a leak there.

Would you know how to remove the partition and intake boot, I've tried but I don't want to break the parts taking them off

 

[Woodslasher]

Would you know how to remove the partition and intake boot, I've tried but I don't want to break the parts taking them off

Gotta pull the jug to get those parts off.

 

[cuinrearview]

Clogged up carb or muffler screen?

 

[Coupe]

Sounds like a blocked carby. Take it to bits and give it a good clean spray plenty of carb cleaner in it
and if you have a set of carby cleaners give it a clean with them. Be careful if you use them though don,t
break one off in a jet.
I have had saws do that and by giving them full choke thay will run and the reason why is the sucking every bit of gas they
can through the carb. Soon as you push the choke to off can,t get petrol.

 

[oologahan]

Clogged up carb or muffler screen?

Nope all clean and like new, it's the intake boot and a surrounding parts

 

[oologahan]

Sounds like a blocked carby. Take it to bits and give it a good clean spray plenty of carb cleaner in it
and if you have a set of carby cleaners give it a clean with them. Be careful if you use them though don,t
break one off in a jet.
I have had saws do that and by giving them full choke thay will run and the reason why is the sucking every bit of gas they
can through the carb. Soon as you push the choke to off can,t get petrol.

Its an OEM rebuilt carb, leak down tests fine, plenty of fuel getting to the carb, it has a massive air leak at the bottom of the intake boot

 

[hacskaroly]

Its an OEM rebuilt carb, leak down tests fine, plenty of fuel getting to the carb, it has a massive air leak at the bottom of the intake boot

Here is a video of a 350 tear-down, might give you an idea what you need to do to get to the intake boot.

Like @Woodslasher stated you most likely will need to take the cylinder off. I have worked on a couple of Husky saws and it is much easier to have the cylinder off to attach the intake boot or block than it is trying to monkey it on or off with the cylinder still on the saw.

This gives you an opportunity to give that area a good cleaning and inspect the cylinder and piston for unusual wear marks.

 

[oologahan]

Here is a video of a 350 tear-down, might give you an idea what you need to do to get to the intake boot.

Like @Woodslasher stated you most likely will need to take the cylinder off. I have worked on a couple of Husky saws and it is much easier to have the cylinder off to attach the intake boot or block than it is trying to monkey it on or off with the cylinder still on the saw.

This gives you an opportunity to give that area a good cleaning and inspect the cylinder and piston for unusual wear marks.

Thanks a bunch, that makes perfect sense. I went ahead and loosened all the screws on the cylinder and will blow it off and clean it before completely pulling the cylinder. I looks like the intake boot might have come loose at the bottom. I see the cylinder gasket is broken and I'll pick up one of those along with the rest of the intake parts. BTW, is there ANY gasket between the carb and the boot?

 

[hacskaroly]

Here is what the IPL is showing for parts in this section:


The entire IPL can be found at this link: Husqvarna 340/345/360 IPL

Edit: I reread what you wrote and highlighed the wrong area. It appears the carb matches up to part 537 42 21-01 with the ring 537 02 90-01 in between. I imagine the ring fits through 537 42 21-01 and fits in the boot 503 86 63-01. But no standard gasket to speak of.

 

[Woodslasher]

Thanks a bunch, that makes perfect sense. I went ahead and loosened all the screws on the cylinder and will blow it off and clean it before completely pulling the cylinder. I looks like the intake boot might have come loose at the bottom. I see the cylinder gasket is broken and I'll pick up one of those along with the rest of the intake parts. BTW, is there ANY gasket between the carb and the boot?

Nope, the rubber boot seals against the aluminum carb body, no gasket required.