Husqvarna 285CD spark help

[brox]

I have a Husqvarna 285CD I am trying to resurrect for a family friend. He has a sentimental attachment to the saw and would love to see it run again. It does not have spark and so far haven’t been able to get there. I bought a NOS ignition from Chris at Saw Salvage thinking that would fix it. Still didn’t have spark with or with the kill switch in the circuit. The insulation on the kill switch wire from the ignition had small cracks in it given the age of these units. I covered the whole wire in heat shrink to seal it up. Only problem is the wire comes through a hole in the ignition and makes a u-turn into the body. I ran heat shrink through the body but wasn’t able to make the u-turn so I coated the wire in several coats of liquid electrical tape. I am confident the kill switch wire is sealed up and not grounding out against the body.

I still don’t have spark when turning the motor over with a drill. There is nothing visual wrong with the flywheel and I have never had one go bad before but I don’t have that much electrical troubleshooting experience. I am debating buying a flywheel to try if I can find one but also wondering how much money to sink in to the CD ignition system. I have read about upgrading to SEM and wishing I had gone that way at this point but have already sank a lot into the CD ignition. Is there anything different about these CD ignitions that I need to check? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Brock

 

[srcarr52]

It's probably the flywheel, the magnets can get weak and no longer create enough current to spark.

They should be able to hold a large sized screw driver that is non magnetized.

 

[brox]

It's probably the flywheel, the magnets can get weak and no longer create enough current to spark.

They should be able to hold a large sized screw driver that is non magnetized.

I noticed they were still magnetic but didn't pay attention to how strong. I'll check that out. Thanks!

 

[thedude74]

I rebuilt a husky 285 CD a couple years back. New p and c, crank bearings, seals, carb kit etc. For parts reference the 285, 2100, 298, and 2101 share most of the same parts. There are if I recall two different types of ignition coils. Which you may already know. Once you get it running i think your going to enjoy it. Mines not even broken in and pulls like a train burried in 24" eucalyptus.

 

[srcarr52]

I rebuilt a husky 285 CD a couple years back. New p and c, crank bearings, seals, carb kit etc. For parts reference the 285, 2100, 298, and 2101 share most of the same parts. There are if I recall two different types of ignition coils. Which you may already know. Once you get it running i think your going to enjoy it. Mines not even broken in and pulls like a train burried in 24" eucalyptus.

Bosch and SEM.

 

[brox]

This one has the Bosch ignition. The part number on the NOS ignition was the exact same as original. I'll get the flywheel pulled back off and give an update on its condition.

 

[brox]

I rebuilt a husky 285 CD a couple years back. New p and c, crank bearings, seals, carb kit etc. For parts reference the 285, 2100, 298, and 2101 share most of the same parts. There are if I recall two different types of ignition coils. Which you may already know. Once you get it running i think your going to enjoy it. Mines not even broken in and pulls like a train burried in 24" eucalyptus.

Thanks - I was able to still get Husky carb/intake gaskets and fuel line. Wasn't able to find cylinder base or case gaskets. It looked like crank seals and bearings were also still available. I decided to get spark figured out before ordering any more parts.

 

[J_M____]

Is it possible someone already tried “fixing” the saw and may have put the wrong coil on? Is there a noticeable difference in flywheels to know which coil it’s supposed to have?

 

[brox]

I'm pretty confident I'm the first one to pull the flywheel. My friend bought the saw new in the late 70s and ran it until it lost spark at some point. It's been sitting in a barn ever since.

I just pulled the flywheel and it's a Bosch with four magnets. All four held a good size screw driver. I'll post pictures

 

[brox]

Bosch flywheel

 

[brox]

Ignition with heat shrink and green liquid electrical tape on kill switch wire.

 

[smokey7]

Are you positive you are turning the engine the right direction with the drill?

 

[redlight066]

I have a Husqvarna 285CD I am trying to resurrect for a family friend. He has a sentimental attachment to the saw and would love to see it run again. It does not have spark and so far haven’t been able to get there. I bought a NOS ignition from Chris at Saw Salvage thinking that would fix it. Still didn’t have spark with or with the kill switch in the circuit. The insulation on the kill switch wire from the ignition had small cracks in it given the age of these units. I covered the whole wire in heat shrink to seal it up. Only problem is the wire comes through a hole in the ignition and makes a u-turn into the body. I ran heat shrink through the body but wasn’t able to make the u-turn so I coated the wire in several coats of liquid electrical tape. I am confident the kill switch wire is sealed up and not grounding out against the body.

I still don’t have spark when turning the motor over with a drill. There is nothing visual wrong with the flywheel and I have never had one go bad before but I don’t have that much electrical troubleshooting experience. I am debating buying a flywheel to try if I can find one but also wondering how much money to sink in to the CD ignition system. I have read about upgrading to SEM and wishing I had gone that way at this point but have already sank a lot into the CD ignition. Is there anything different about these CD ignitions that I need to check? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Brock

I just finished a 285cd this weekend. I went the SEM coil and flywheel route. Never noticed til I tried to install the recoil that the original pulley had two dawgs instead of the three on the new flywheel. Bought a NOS Pulley..... the 2100 pulley is smaller in diameter than the 285. Urrrrgggg. Luckily I had a 2100 starter housing and used the 285 spring. I don't know who was more excited to see it running again. The saw had sentimental value and while parts are still available to upgrade to electronic ignition, had to be patient and it was not cheap. As far as a more in depth trouble shooting of your Bosch coil someone smarter than me needs to chime in.

 

[brox]

Are you positive you are turning the engine the right direction with the drill?

Should be counter clockwise correct?

 

[brox]

I just finished a 285cd this weekend. I went the SEM coil and flywheel route. Never noticed til I tried to install the recoil that the original pulley had two dawgs instead of the three on the new flywheel. Bought a NOS Pulley..... the 2100 pulley is smaller in diameter than the 285. Urrrrgggg. Luckily I had a 2100 starter housing and used the 285 spring. I don't know who was more excited to see it running again. The saw had sentimental value and while parts are still available to upgrade to electronic ignition, had to be patient and it was not cheap. As far as a more in depth trouble shooting of your Bosch coil someone smarter than me needs to chime in.

Thanks for the info, good to know if I end up going that route.

 

[srcarr52]

How are you testing for spark? Spark tester or grounded plug in the boot?

Can you put the recoil back on it? Your drill may not be fast enough.

 

[brox]

I was using the plug against the head. I tried several different plugs with no luck and multiple times/locations on the cylinder. I wondered if the drill was fast enough but it has always worked on other saws and with plug out there isn't much resistance so it seems to turn over pretty fast. I can put the recoil back on and give that a try. I don't have a spark tester but can pick one up to try.

 

[srcarr52]

All things point to that it should work. Maybe you got a dud coil.

Do you have an ohm meter? Check the resistance between the cylinder and the frame of the coil. It should be almost 0.

 

[brox]

All things point to that it should work. Maybe you got a dud coil.

Do you have an ohm meter? Check the resistance between the cylinder and the frame of the coil. It should be almost 0.

I do, I'll give that a shot tonight and report back. Thanks!

 

[Veljko]

There was a tread on AS for fixing ignition. Problem is with condensator in igniton. I have repair four of them that way and they all work with no problem. It is 2 dollar cost.