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Husky Revelations

drf256

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I finally figured it out, they made a special formula for each Hooskie Model.

I cheated and used the 242XP formula on a 262XP.

Ya think that Loctite woulda just made a “2 Series” formula instead of one for each model?

A4CF337D-F092-4E6F-95AD-3A55DF11D123.jpeg
 

drf256

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Lolol...

Here’s a real revelation I hadn’t figured out before.

Meteor supplies F-Cast rings with their single ringed Husqvarna pistons. I finally figured it out last night. Makes sense, as it’s only one sealing ring and a bit more tension would be beneficial. I’ve been installing F-Cast all along with these meteors.

Another pearl, the Meteor 262 piston is actually 1 gram lighter than OEM KS/Mahle slugs. By the look and feel I wouldn’t have guessed that. But the scale doesn’t lie.

7D2D174C-68E1-40D7-AF18-B1374F232491.jpeg 5C77822B-FF0E-48DB-9BE6-2F9B2977CA43.jpeg 54254723-6BC2-4430-84DD-9C962AB84996.jpeg BF5D5D02-4EA7-48C5-B3CF-3067E393D6C4.jpeg 1644F8FE-8639-4A4B-9B3E-76FAF10FAF4E.jpeg
 

beaglebriar

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Lolol...

Here’s a real revelation I hadn’t figured out before.

Meteor supplies F-Cast rings with their single ringed Husqvarna pistons. I finally figured it out last night. Makes sense, as it’s only one sealing ring and a bit more tension would be beneficial. I’ve been installing F-Cast all along with these meteors.

Another pearl, the Meteor 262 piston is actually 1 gram lighter than OEM KS/Mahle slugs. By the look and feel I wouldn’t have guessed that. But the scale doesn’t lie.

View attachment 132868 View attachment 132869 View attachment 132870 View attachment 132871 View attachment 132872
Do you modify the meteor at all Doc?
 

AlfA01

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Lolol...

Here’s a real revelation I hadn’t figured out before.

Meteor supplies F-Cast rings with their single ringed Husqvarna pistons. I finally figured it out last night. Makes sense, as it’s only one sealing ring and a bit more tension would be beneficial. I’ve been installing F-Cast all along with these meteors.

Another pearl, the Meteor 262 piston is actually 1 gram lighter than OEM KS/Mahle slugs. By the look and feel I wouldn’t have guessed that. But the scale doesn’t lie.

View attachment 132868 View attachment 132869 View attachment 132870 View attachment 132871 View attachment 132872

Doc, how do you find the Meteor pistons for finish on the edges? I bought one recently for a J'Red build and thought some of the edges needed relieving to prevent oil wiping in the cylinder. Just curious if they are all that way, or if I got one that wasn't quite finished properly.
 

drf256

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Do you modify the meteor at all Doc?

Doc, how do you find the Meteor pistons for finish on the edges? I bought one recently for a J'Red build and thought some of the edges needed relieving to prevent oil wiping in the cylinder. Just curious if they are all that way, or if I got one that wasn't quite finished properly.

Finish is generally excellent. I used to remove any flash on the piston, but I rarely do for a Worksaw anymore. It’s needless work.
 

AlfA01

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Finish is generally excellent. I used to remove any flash on the piston, but I rarely do for a Worksaw anymore. It’s needless work.

Meteor pistons are usually really good on their fit and finish

I thought so. I usually throw OEM in all my saws. When I bought this Meteor and compared it side-by-side with an OEM, the edges are noticeably sharper on it. I'll probably just hit them with a little emery or brillo on the edges only, just to be on the safe side.
 

huskyboy

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The meteor pistons I got for a 394/385/357 came with normal looking circlips and the pin appeared to be identical to oem on 394/357 but I don’t have a scale to weigh them. The 385 pin was a bit heavier looking than oem. Not a lot of casting flash and nice finish. I did take some off the intake skirt of the 394 piston to give it a bit more duration. Runs nicely. The 357 was a older saw with the smaller small end wrist pin I believe, it’s been tortured by a tree service for 1 year since rebuild and runs good still. I really liked the meteor or even the one hyway piston I’ve gotten. Wouldn’t hesitate to buy over oem and save the extra $ personally. I still like oem cylinders better.
 

beaglebriar

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Finish is generally excellent. I used to remove any flash on the piston, but I rarely do for a Worksaw anymore. It’s needless work.
Yeah I've used a pile of them. Sometimes I'll clean them up, sometimes not. I just like to see what other guys are doing.
 

jacob j.

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I thought so. I usually throw OEM in all my saws. When I bought this Meteor and compared it side-by-side with an OEM, the edges are noticeably sharper on it. I'll probably just hit them with a little emery or brillo on the edges only, just to be on the safe side.

That's good practice. They used to teach beginning engine builders in the automotive world to be on the lookout for sharp edges and potential heat or stress risers on freshly machined or manufactured parts.

My dad was a long time amateur engine builder and he would go through a freshly honed block by hand with oil-based solvent and crocus cloth. His engines usually lived long, healthy lives and a couple
he built in the 70's are still on the road in the hands of family friends.

One interesting note about Meteor pistons - I was going through a 272 for a member and I ended up with both - new slugs (OEM and Meteor), and both were marked "A" pistons and the jug was a used A jug.
The Meteor as miked out was a better fit overall - I ended up going with the Meteor, the new OEM ring, and a Stihl wrist pin (440 I think). It made a great runner.
 
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