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Husky 390 help

Terrence Jefferson

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20200206_044116.jpg 20200206_044121.jpg 20200206_044131.jpg this is the exhaust. I didn't raise or lower either of these ports just widened tbem. I also pulled the piston this am when i took these and the skirt fully covers the intake port. I agree its a timing issue but im completely lost. This saw was toast and the piston crank and culinder are all new from husqvarna
 

drf256

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Yea. Your going to want those flames shooting back into the cylinder. With out them, you wont have any compression. Those flames are your compression escaping, that's how s 2 stroke works.
Amazing. Best answer material.

And don’t forget, it’s the atmospheric pressure that’s flowing through that engine, the piston is a passive bystander.
 

beaglebriar

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View attachment 222434 View attachment 222435 View attachment 222436 this is the exhaust. I didn't raise or lower either of these ports just widened tbem. I also pulled the piston this am when i took these and the skirt fully covers the intake port. I agree its a timing issue but im completely lost. This saw was toast and the piston crank and culinder are all new from husqvarna
What other saws do you own? If you have a 372/365/2171/2172/2165 available you can swap the flywheel and coil over to the 390 for troubleshooting. As long as the ports are reasonably covered you probably didn't go too wide but baby steps would have been a better approach.

I would focus on getting the flywheel right as that's the most likely culprit. Followed by the coil as previously stated. What are your carb settings and is the carb in good working order? You basically have to go down the list...
 

Spladle160

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It's also very important to torque the flywheel nut properly. Service manual shows 35 Nm. I will torque the nut, back it off once and torque it again to ensure the tapers are seated.

Just my amateur 2 cents here as most of these guys are more experienced than I am. More important than properly torquing the flywheel is proper cleaning and fit. the 95% of what's stopping the flywheel from spinning on the crank is the friction between the flywheel and shaft. Yeah, the nut needs to be tight but a tight nut on a greasy mis-matched angle connection will just keep shearing keys.

I don't know how others feel about it but I have used some lapping compound to on the shaft and flywheel to make sure they mate cleanly then thoroughly cleaned and de-greased. No more slipping after that.
 

Mastermind

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Yea. Your going to want those flames shooting back into the cylinder. With out them, you wont have any compression. Those flames are your compression escaping, that's how s 2 stroke works.

You're quickly becoming my new hero.
 

Stump Shot

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Yea. Your going to want those flames shooting back into the cylinder. With out them, you wont have any compression. Those flames are your compression escaping, that's how s 2 stroke works.

@Termitebuffet is working on rerouting the exhaust to the carburetor for even more compression.
I think this is wonderful, finally a saw that can literally GFI.
 

ucm931

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Sounds like Robert Krogh and Stump (with Termitebuffet consulting) may have stumbled upon the operating theory for a matter/anti-matter 2 cycle chainsaw with EGR and and reverse.
:sisi3:
:thinking:
 
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