Husky 372XP Excessive Bar Oil Leakage

[Bada_Bing13]

I have a clone kit saw, Husky 372XP with a Big Bore Kit in it, Walboro Carb, 28" Forester Bar, Genuine Husqvarna Fuel & Oil lines that was sent out to be Professionally Built, Ported and Tuned.

I'm noticing that there's A LOT of excessive bar oil that leaks out after I shut the saw off. I'm used to a little bit of oil pooling underneath it but this seems to be way too much.

Now I've already tried to fix it by using silicon to seal the lines & the rubber grommets to the pump and case. This has cut down a bit on the amount of oil but it hasn't stopped completely.

I'm wondering if there's a fix for this?? Maybe would a genuine Husqvarna Oil Pump + Oil Gear, new grommets & lines help to fix this ?

I'm open to all suggestions, Any & All help is appreciated very much

( YES the bar is receiving plenty of oiling )

Bless you and may the saw gods be ever in your favor!! Thanks Again

 

[Wilhelm]

Dump the B&C oil out of the tank before storing the saw?

When storing the saw in question jam a cotton cloth under the clutch cover?

Both of the above works for me on some of my leaky saws.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I have a clone kit saw, Husky 372XP with a Big Bore Kit in it, Walboro Carb, 28" Forester Bar, Genuine Husqvarna Fuel & Oil lines that was sent out to be Professionally Built, Ported and Tuned.

I'm noticing that there's A LOT of excessive bar oil that leaks out after I shut the saw off. I'm used to a little bit of oil pooling underneath it but this seems to be way too much.

Now I've already tried to fix it by using silicon to seal the lines & the rubber grommets to the pump and case. This has cut down a bit on the amount of oil but it hasn't stopped completely.

I'm wondering if there's a fix for this?? Maybe would a genuine Husqvarna Oil Pump + Oil Gear, new grommets & lines help to fix this ?

I'm open to all suggestions, Any & All help is appreciated very much

( YES the bar is receiving plenty of oiling )

Bless you and may the saw gods be ever in your favor!! Thanks Again

Personally I would Ditch the clone pump. I tried everything to fix them in the past only to be let down. Replace the rubber components as well. OEM is the only thing I've had that's worked without leaking. I only know 1 person who had success with a dukes pump but I did not.

 

[qurotro]

Take the clutch off and see where is the leak.

 

[Gord]

might be your oil pickup line not sealing up to the pump itself because the lip is too short on the hose and make sure your handle bar bolts are not too long under the oil tank or they will punch a hole in the casting over time- change the pickup line to oem for starters- chineese are great copiers but don't seem to get it completely right in most cases - imo

 

[Bada_Bing13]

Take the clutch off and see where is the leak.

I have before when I used the silicon to seal it up. I determined that the leak was from either the pump itself or possibly even a missing o-ring

I'm not sure which one as I cannot find a proper diagram for it because it seems like they've used different parts and pieces from all the 372's produced over the years.

 

[Bada_Bing13]

might be your oil pickup line not sealing up to the pump itself because the lip is too short on the hose and make sure your handle bar bolts are not too long under the oil tank or they will punch a hole in the casting over time- change the pickup line to oem for starters- chineese are great copiers but don't seem to get it completely right in most cases - imo

Ok, I'll just buy OEM lines all the way around and the grommets if I can find them too.
I'm just having a hard time locating a OEM Husqvarna Oil Pump and Oiler Gear but I've only looked for about 90 minutes so maybe I'll come across one if I keep at it.

Thanks for your tips

 

[qurotro]

I believed the pump itself has sloppy tolerance and leaks front the piston shaft. There isn’t much parts that would go wrong actually.

 

[Woodwackr]

Ok, I'll just buy OEM lines all the way around and the grommets if I can find them too.
I'm just having a hard time locating a OEM Husqvarna Oil Pump and Oiler Gear but I've only looked for about 90 minutes so maybe I'll come across one if I keep at it.

Thanks for your tips

You need to figure out exactly where the oil is coming from, first.

 

[Duce]

That's an issue with many 372's. Do not fill oil before storing. Do not fill when it's cold and store in warm area. Lay it with pump side up.

 

[farminkarman]

I think the AM oil tank vents are rather inconsistent as well. If the vent isn’t working well, your tank will be pressurized when the saw is hot, and it will puke oil everywhere when you shut it off.

 

[qurotro]

I think the AM oil tank vents are rather inconsistent as well. If the vent isn’t working well, your tank will be pressurized when the saw is hot, and it will puke oil everywhere when you shut it off.

Hm.. I disagree with that. 372 oil tank vent is a check valve. Only allow air in not out. Even the OEM one would build up pressure and puke oil.

 

[hacskaroly]

I'm open to all suggestions, Any & All help is appreciated very much

Typically when I am trying to chase down a leaky saw, is to take apart as much as possible and give it a good cleaning. put it all back together and set it on a piece of cardboard. Wait a day and check to see if you have any leakage. Wipe it again and set it on a new piece of cardboard, wait a day and see if there is any leakage. If there is no leakage the second day then most likely you just had a bunch of residual oil that gravity was pulling out, otherwise, if you do still have leakage, you should have a better idea of where it is coming from and what parts you might need to throw at it.

Trying to chase down oil leaks can be a slow and tedious process. Of all of the saws that were brought in as "excessive leakers" only one had a malfunction o-ring on the oiler adjustment screw...all the others were just dirty saws that kept leaking oil from all the crap left in them and all of the crevices that didn't get cleaned out.

 

[farminkarman]

Hm.. I disagree with that. 372 oil tank vent is a check valve. Only allow air in not out. Even the OEM one would build up pressure and puke oil.

Well, all of the clones I have had my hands on use a sintered bronze vent, so no check valve.

 

[qurotro]

Well, all of the clones I have had my hands on use a sintered bronze vent, so no check valve.

There’s a duck bill behind it. At lease the oem one does. Older one case use spring ball check valve though. There’s 2 type of vent on oem case I assume the clone one copy the sintered type.

 

[Wilhelm]

Filtered and settled charred pitch black engine oil to easier and faster find the leak!

It is not like You are going to run gallons of it through the pump.

 

[qurotro]

Filtered and settled charred pitch black engine oil to easier and faster find the leak!

It is not like You are going to run gallons of it through the pump.

Used diesel engine is recommended! So black it will stain everything it touch lol..

 

[Wilhelm]

Used diesel engine is recommended! So black it will stain everything it touch lol..

I could have suggested oil pigment fluid, but it will discolor paint, rubber, plastics.

Charred/burn black oil can be cleaned.