How would you try and save this coil

[mirage]

Ok thanks

 

[Al Smith]

A simplest test for a coil ,which by the way is in essence an auto transformer one side common ground would be points lead to ground ,spark plug lead to ground .The high voltage side should show more resistance ,more windings .I just checked an auto battery coil with a Fluke digital .Quick test ,it was cold ,still in my PJ's ,lazy day .

 

[Frank bierce]

Might try an electrical sealant called scotchkote. Not sure how it withstands heat though. couldn’t find much information for the heat rating.

 

[Basher]

Anyone try Plasti Dip? I have a can of it here somewhere that I may give it a try on one of my old Pioneer coils.

 

[Al Smith]

If it's the same stuff you might dip tool handles in I'm not so sure it would be a good choice but that's only an opinion .

 

[blacksmith]

The best way is to dip it in varnish and put it under vacuum and then pressure then when it comes out bake it.
That will seal it up real good. If you feel like tinkering here is the directions.

1) Heat till it is at least 125 degrees.
2) Put into the varnish while leaving the lead connections above the varnish.
3) Pull to -30 psi till the bubbles stop (approx 40 minutes).
4) Take the pressure to 72 psi for 40 min. *edit
5) Bake at 300 degrees for 2 1/2 hours to cure.
6) Then let air cool completely. *edit

This is the directions for the type of varnish that I use. Others may have different bake temps and times.

There is also an air cured varnish that you can buy that will hold up well but if the insulating value of the varnish internally is compromised this will not help. If you're worried about the cracking on the outside and moisture getting in then epoxy will be fine but it may be to thick to fit back in where it needs to.

*edit) Weather you are going to use air cure varnish or epoxy I would definitely bake it first before the application at 150 degrees for an hour to get all the moisture out first!

This is what I do for a living. Rewind electric motors and wind coils. I'd say send it to me but I wouldn't want to take a chance on getting caught with it and getting in trouble.

 

[Al Smith]

Glyp is like Permatex and has been around forever and has worked forever .In years past,40 ,I 've made splices on 15,000 volt armored cable exposed to the weather in cable trays .Ohio temps from 20 below to heavens only knows how much in the hot sun that could be 100 degrees .Final layer of 6 wraps of friction tape coated with Glyp .They never failed .
You can look at old open frame gigantic industrial electric motors .Many dating back to the 40's that have never failed and inside of them that reddish paint is Glyptal .

 

[Basher]

If it's the same stuff you might dip tool handles in I'm not so sure it would be a good choice but that's only an opinion .

Thanks Al, I will try it anyway as that is what I do, I try stuff others won`t.

 

[mirage]

Mine is still in the rice. I got the liquid tape .Got it from amazon in less than 24 hours. It was like 6$ . Going to put it in the convection oven around 150 degrees for a couple of hours.

 

[semicabin]

Wow, the other option is to just buy a new one, there’s a place in the states that sells them for $14-15 last time I checked, only issue for me is they won’t send to Australia

 

[Mastermind]

Mine is still in the rice. I got the liquid tape .Got it from amazon in less than 24 hours. It was like 6$ . Going to put it in the convection oven around 150 degrees for a couple of hours.

How did this turn out?

 

[mirage]

I don't know yet . Coil is still in the rice. I got some liquid tape. I have been working on getting the piston freed up . no luck yet. This will be a super dry coil. Thanks for asking.

 

[mirage]

Wow, the other option is to just buy a new one, there’s a place in the states that sells them for $14-15 last time I checked, only issue for me is they won’t send to Australia

Can you please tell me where I can get one for 15.00$. I think they use the same coil on other saws.

 

[Mastermind]

I have been working on getting the piston freed up . no luck yet.

Let's talk about this.

Have you tried heating up the jug? I've had good luck by heat cycling the whole thing several times. This helps to pull the penetrating oil down between the bore and the piston.

I probably missed it, but what are you using for penetrating oil?

 

[mirage]

Right now I am using ATF and acetone. Got crank case as full as I can get it . Got the exhaust port full with a piece of plastic over it. I have filled the cylinder full a few time with it but it does not have any in it at this time. I have put heat to it a few times but not alot. I guess it has been soaking about a week this time.I have tried kroil also. I have rinsed between applications with brake cleaner. The Head is off the cylinder.

 

[mirage]

Thank you for asking Mr Mastermind

 

[Al Smith]

If it's hung above the ports go to the section on the forum and look under Partner , P 100 .I unstuck that saw using that method as well as several 4 cycle engines .Let me see if I can find it

 

[Al Smith]

Try this one starting on page 3http://opeforum.com/threads/partner-chain-saw-thread.765/

 

[Lightning Performance]

@mirage
If your piston is @ or near tdc your in luck. Plumb up a grease gun and go easy. Works most times after atf and acid soaks.

 

[Al Smith]

Oh believe me it will either come or bleed .You put 4- 5,000 PSI on something something has to give .