Homemade Cases, Scabbards

[Loony661]

Not really a case, or a scabbard, but this cedar lumber did the trick for keeping my saws upright and separated while driving over all kinds of terrain to and from the work site. Not very pretty, but holds 4 saws in the back of my pickup nicely. And naturally weather resistant.

 

[Shibby]

View attachment 326930

Not really a case, or a scabbard, but this cedar lumber did the trick for keeping my saws upright and separated while driving over all kinds of terrain to and from the work site. Not very pretty, but holds 4 saws in the back of my pickup nicely. And naturally weather resistant.

This is so simple I can't believe I never thought of this. I usually shove my case-less saws between my cased saws. I'd probably add a second board on the bar or handles to keep sharp slides or turns from pinching/bending the bar if the case wants to take a good slide into something and the board doesn't. Now that I type this out I realize I might just have too much crap in my truck bed....

 

[Loony661]

This is so simple I can't believe I never thought of this. I usually shove my case-less saws between my cased saws. I'd probably add a second board on the bar or handles to keep sharp slides or turns from pinching/bending the bar if the case wants to take a good slide into something and the board doesn't. Now that I type this out I realize I might just have too much crap in my truck bed....

It actually surprised me how well this worked! The saws don’t actually move much, even bouncing off road in my ‘99 2500 Ram.. I did find a way I would improve it however: I intentionally left about an inch of “wiggle room” between the wheel wells, and I shouldn’t have. The board eventually does just that: wiggles forward after enough bouncing. If I would have set it tight in between the wheel wells, it would be much harder to do that. Other than that, I wouldn’t change a thing. I cut slots of course where each of my saws go, and along side the slots I ran a wood screw up to hold the board together since it gets real thin there. Ya follow what I’m saying?

 

[Philbert]

Cloth fire hose should still be rubber lined on the inside - so unless the inside got wet, it should be very effective at protecting the bar and chain.

The piece I got had been sitting for a while and smelled mildewy inside. I cleaned it out, and it took forever to dry. Made me think that if I covered a guide bar and chain that were damp (water, rain, humidity) they might end up rusting. The OEM plastic ones allow a little more air circulation.

I know that a lot of guys use old fire hose, but I was not comfortable with it.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

The piece I got had been sitting for a while and smelled mildewy inside. I cleaned it out, and it took forever to dry. Made me think that if I covered a guide bar and chain that were damp (water, rain, humidity) they might end up rusting. The OEM plastic ones allow a little more air circulation.

I know that a lot of guys use old fire hose, but I was not comfortable with it.

Philbert

Old fire hose might work rather well. I have now and then saved the cardboard that covered a chain or bar when shipped and used that in a pinch after cutting it to length. I gave one to a customer and she has used it for two years. Several times I have made them from used corrugated cardboard and duct tape.

Tree service companies beat up more saws with chains bouncing around in a truck bed than you can shake a stick at. Ever notice the scars and rips all over the outer handles?