help IDing hydraulic hose ends for log splitter

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Hi,

I bought a Chinese log splitter

Performance Built 37 ton
Model: LSP37B

and I want to add a pressure gauge, but, I am not sure of the hose ends.

The male thread measures almost an +- inch, about 16 threads an inch, and part of the fitting is marked #12. It looks like it seals by an O-Ring (brown 14x2.5) at the end that mounts in the male end of the fitting. Looks like it seals by the thread too? I thought maybe it was NPT or maybe ORFS, but, it does not look like the pictures of ORFS ends on Surplus Center. I almost think it is SAE O-ring fittings.

I am used to SAE car fittings and class 7/8 truck fittings, so, this has me a bit stumped. The idea is to earn enough money with this for an Eastonmade or to make a box wedge splitter myself.

I am actually short firewood, so, I needed something cheap and fast to make firewood before the end of the month, but, I am having pressure troubles. I think I foamed the AW32 fluid too much by overfilling. So, I let it sit overnight, but, I would like to know the pressure in case I have to call again (arrived with a nicked hose).

Thanks!

 

[dall]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/ORFS-Face-Seal/

 

[dall]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/SAE-O-ring-to-SAE-O-ring/ seals on the outside not in the flat face of the fitting

only difference i see between your pictures and the ones at surplus center is the ones you picture doesnt have a inner rib to hold the o ring in place which in my opinion could let the o ring swell enough to get pushed into the center allowing a leak

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Hi,

> doesnt have a inner rib

That is the confusing part, the O-ring is roughly .75" wide, about .11 tall, and sits inside the flat part of the male fitting.

This set up matches the plastic plugs used for the hoses (cyl comes filled) too. It almost looks like ORFS, except no tube down the middle, so, I do not see how effective that seal would be. They send you teflon tape, I used it to prevent galling, I am not sure it actually does anything beyond that except maybe prevent loosening.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...aight-FF6400-12-12-Adapter-9-FF6400-12-12.axd

I confirmed the pressure is turned all the way up in the splitter valve, it just is very jerky when moving and builds absolutely no pressure, it did before I overfilled it. I rather not spend another $60 replacing the AW32 fluid, though I might go with Dextron this time.

I do not think there is any air in the system as it is pumping fine, though the fluid looks foamy and not clear.

Thanks.

 

[dall]

air in system means cavitation
what size pump is on the splitter ?
there wont be much pressure until under a load then it should be atleast 2500 psi
if it is jerky then that means pump is not producing a consistant amount of fluid like its sucking air

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

air in system means cavitation
what size pump is on the splitter ?
there wont be much pressure until under a load then it should be atleast 2500 psi
if it is jerky then that means pump is not producing a consistant amount of fluid like its sucking air

Hi,

17 GPM pump, 8 gallon tank, 5" cyl with a 2.25" rod, 306 cc B&S (10 HP?)

After reading your post, I decided you were right and the dipstick was wrong:

> if it is jerky then that means pump is not producing a consistant amount of fluid like its sucking air

I added 2.5 gallons of Dextron and except for some foaming still present, it built up enough pressure to kick off the detent valve and to split some small pieces of dried red oak. I do not think I overfilled it, I think the problem was it was on slightly uneven ground so the return line/filter was above the fluid level and the vent was at the lower end. Which was why it was foaming? User error I guess, though I never had a problem like this with my 37 ton Northgate splitter from Northern Tools. Though that was $2300+ four years ago and this was only $1500.

I am going to let it sit for a while and check the level. The return hose is almost to the top of the tank, so, it looks like you have less then 1" for air space and hot fluid expansion. I do not think the dipstick/plug is meant to be turned in to measure fluid level, just lightly placed in the hole. Which is not how my other splitters were/are.

Thanks.

Though my head hurts from all this O-Ring stuff trying to add a simple gauge. Looks like a simple female to male flat o ring surface "T" with a NPT for the gauge does not exist.

If I build mine it will be NPT threads and couplers.

I did build my own trays and winch platform out of scrap metal. Probably spray paint those tonight.

 

[dall]

the fittings on the valve and cylinder may be npt im not sure but would be a good guess but then youd have the expense of redoing the hoses so im not sure id worry about a pressure gauge or not until it had problems
most factory splitters using the axle area as tanks need to be pretty well full as you said a inch from the top is good when cold

 

[Al Smith]

You get into that Asian stuff it stands a good chance everything including the hoses are metric .You can do some research on the net and probably figure it out and if so Surplus Center probably is your best option to find adapters if that's what it takes . Don't feel so all alone though because I have 5 gallon buckets full of fittings and every so often I have to get on the net to figure things out .
Recently it was for replacement of old hoses on an Oliver crawler made in 1954 that used fittings that have not been made in about 30 or more years .Tying to salvage what I could and replacing the rest without spending a kings ransom doing it .Surplus Center came though in grand style with reasonable prices and timely shipping .I gave up on Northern Hydraulics some time ago .They seemed more interested in selling extended warranties than selling product .They also had a bad habit of back ordering stuff they said at the time they had in stock Imagine a warranty on a hydraulic fitting of all things ,good grief .

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> Imagine a warranty on a hydraulic fitting of all things ,good grief .[/QUOTE]

Yes, most warranties range from ridiculous to worthless including the "life time" warranty on auto parts at O'Reillys. Though I might get the Harbor Freight ones on cordless batteries. They have been good swapping out dead and broken stuff to outright refund when asked.

I did manage to find the exact fitting needed in Canada, costs $21 to ship it to the USA. (F) ORFS x (M) ORFS x 1/4" NPT Female for the gauge.

I keep wondering why these fittings use such a O-Ring compared to other ORFS connectors. All I can think as previously posted, so they do not blow out for the lack of a fitting to keep them in place.

Well, it is going to be a learning experience, I never even knew these fittings existed,

If I can build a firewood processor, my next project will be a hydraulic motor 6x6 buggy. I learned to fix the hydraulic tran-saxles in a Toro zero turn. Not a big fan of those, especially them needing a fan, though you get to see cut costing in action. Was designed with two supports to keep it aligned, ships with one, so, it wears out and breaks other parts.

I do keep a bucket of black iron nipples and pipe fittings myself. Along with a small bucket of pneumatic fittings. Junk to most people, but, has saved me, and one bucket I actually bought for less then scrap price at an auction.

 

[Al Smith]

Before I retired I had access to an almost unlimited supply of all kinds of fittings .o-rings and such things .Since I have to buy them .Not nearly as easy to figure out .Strange as it might seem I found some metric hydraulic banjo fittings have the same threads as the flywheel pullers for Stihl chainsaws .Plus internally they had the correct size to tap out for Ford M11 cylinder head bolts .I made several and got paid to do it .

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> I made several and got paid to do it

Sweet, that is how I try to get my trees for my sawmill and firewood, get paid to remove them.