Gasket delete

[Lightning Performance]

Not using gasket

518

 

[countryhog]

Last question, I think, is it better to leave the motoseal, or equivalent, in a “string” or knocked down to cover mating surfaces?

 

[Mkinslow]

Last question, I think, is it better to leave the motoseal in a “string” or knocked down to cover mating surfaces?

Spread it ,that way you know it's where its supposed to be and doesn't just make a mess

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[countryhog]

Okay, I lied. One more question. as I previously stated I have done gasket delete on several saws with mostly success and have testing and building saws for a good while. When I removed the jug I had to use a rubber mallet.
my experience leads me to some conclusions regarding the low compression. None of which I want. Since I sometimes can suffer from tunnel vision I’m soliciting group consensus regarding what else could cause low compression.
FYI, The piston and cylinder are in good shape. Jug has had alum removed. Ring grooves were not clogged. No slip in rods, wrist pin, etc.
TIA

 

[Lightning Performance]

Very low radial tension on the rings. That goes away at operating speeds.
Poor ring seating or glazed cylinder walls with new rings installed with out breaking the shiny face down some.
Leaking decomp during testing.
Bad test gauge or Schrader valve.

 

[countryhog]

Very low radial tension on the rings. That goes away at operating speeds.
Poor ring seating or glazed cylinder walls with new rings installed with out breaking the shiny face down some.
Leaking decomp during testing.
Bad test gauge or Schrader valve.

Thanks, How do you “break the shinny face down some”?

 

[cuinrearview]

Thanks, How do you “break the shinny face down some”?

I like red scotchbrite

 

[cuinrearview]

I should also add that I'm in the "both surfaces" crowd when it comes to sealant. I slide the jug just over the rings, tip it to the intake side and paint both surfaces thinly with a q-tip. Tip it towards the exhaust and paint the other halves. Slide the jug home. No waiting.

 

[MG porting]

Very low radial tension on the rings. That goes away at operating speeds.
Poor ring seating or glazed cylinder walls with new rings installed with out breaking the shiny face down some.
Leaking decomp during testing.
Bad test gauge or Schrader valve.

That pretty much sums it up.lol or egg shaped cylinder or piston.

 

[Lightning Performance]

320 400 paper wet or a hone. Scotch Brite red as stated. Wash it in soap and hot water... rinse well.

 

[countryhog]

I’m a little confused here. Are you talkin bout breaking down the jug or the new rings. If jug I really worked it over with 320 emery cloth, nice and shinny. Ok, I’m almost understanding. Thing is, other than last question that’s how I been doin it. Thanks to all for all the help and verifications

 

[Lightning Performance]

I’m a little confused here. Are you talkin bout breaking down the jug or the new rings. If jug I really worked it over with 320 emery cloth, nice and shinny. Ok, I’m almost understanding. Thing is, other than last question that’s how I been doin it. Thanks to all for all the help and verifications

1500 to 2000 isn't shinny... yet.
400 dry is pretty rough.... good paint prep. Wet keeps the paper clean and your work but makes a mess.

A well prepared cylinder wall will break in used rings that shine. They will reseat but it's normally not done unless its close to race time and you don't have new ones. Plus new rings will follow the bore shape faster imo. Changing rings to different pistons during swaps is common practice where I'm from while tuning the engine to your liking. Mostly dome or weight changes. Rings stay with that cylinder/sleeve in the same position or they get replaced.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I'd be looking to compare with the reading from another gauge.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I will add.... when the deglazing of a cylinder is done, the oil in the fuel has a place to stick, this then helps with compression...

there’s a lot going on at 10k+ in that cylinder...