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Gasification VS conventional OWB’s

woodfarmer

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This is part of my question, I don’t always have 2-3 years worth of wood worked up. I also don’t like the idea of filling the stove for 12 hour burns. Are the gassers that finicky or can I load for a 24 hour burn regardless of temp?
Go back and read my reply again!
 

Deets066

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Redfin

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2 years minimum.

Fred Seton the designer of the oversized boat anchor in my garage says a little moisture in the wood actually doesn't hurt a thing. Since I burn large rounds the moisture content is gonna be higher than split wood. Like I said there may be better designs out there.
Id bet its way higher % than you think. Ive split rounds open after two years and they are higher than 30%.
 

beaglebriar

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Id bet its way higher % than you think. Ive split rounds open after two years and they are higher than 30%.
The stuff that's stacked in the yard under a tarp probably. The stuff that's been cooked under the barn roof I'd guess is fairly low. Regardless I don't notice much difference in consumption between the two.
 

Deets066

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I have a gasser in the garage and still use 10-12 cords of good seasoned hardwood per year. No different than several guys around here running conventional OWB's. I'm looking at tearing it down a for a rebuild again, 2nd time since new in 2008. I don't see the benefit but I'm sure there's better designs than what I have. Plus the smoke is rancid and smells like chit.

If I were able to go back in time I would choose a Harmon indoor boiler(no longer made). I do love having it in the garage aside from the fly ash that gets all over everything. Keeps the vehicles nice and toasty through winter.
I’d hazard to guess they are more efficient now.
Surprised you could even get a gasser in 08
 

EvilRoySlade

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Break it down to what you want from it and how much you want to give to it. The whole purpose of gasser is to move the peak btu from a fuel into a much easier to control medium, usually water. Burn the dry wood at full throttle, get max temp per pound and capture. Controlling water is way easier than a fire, but doing it great means 1-2000 gallons of it. Sure you start a fire over and over but you start them with the sole purpose of going full rage. Sure you can’t chuck any old thing that resembles wood in either, that’s quite alright. There’s a reason they make all varieties of wood incinerators, pick one that matches your space to store wood, your wood species around, install location etc. Point is everyone has an opinion but you are the one managing it every day, what works in your life then go that route.
 

SpaceBus

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This is part of my question, I don’t always have 2-3 years worth of wood worked up. I also don’t like the idea of filling the stove for 12 hour burns. Are the gassers that finicky or can I load for a 24 hour burn regardless of temp?
I'm no expert, but I do like to browse the OWB and indoor gassifier threads on the hearth. With an indoor gasser it burns full bore for the whole burn and transfers almost all of the energy into 500+ (1,000 is better) gallons of water which is then pumped through the heated structures. The OWB Gassers seem to burn full bore and then modulate back to an idle when there is no call for heat. Without dry wood, you might as well use a conventional boiler, I just cringe at the smoke. Honestly I don't really get the idea of a wood boiler that doesn't use storage.

If you do get a few years ahead on your wood and keep everything smaller than 8" diameter you will use less wood and have to keep less wood put away.
 

Lightning Performance

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Never owned one but the hearth guys gave me links to videos on youtube of building and maintaining the systems. If you could burn wood chips or other mediums it changes your gassers set up for a feed system. Figure out things like zone valves or not. I prefer just pumps no valves. The main thing was your secondary being compatible with the primary. Gas or lp seemed like the best back up system. Clean burn and easy to set up imo.

I find it interesting that setting it up for DC power was easier imo to move water on those systems. DC blowers and pumps are available. No need to convert a battery bank to AC for the circulator pumps. This setup keeps the system online indefinitely with solar panels or a gen charging the bank.

A down draft gasser built in the corner of a shop, going down to the storage system with exhaust running under the floor and out through an insulated indoor chimney pipe was a sure winner. He set up a system like a Russian masonry heater to start the draft on a cold system near the draft pipe. Water based and you'd be hard pressed to make it freeze. It's takes weeks to trickle down. Another guy had his indoors with an insulated door in his wall. This lead to his awning packed with wood and a draft pipe pulling air through to feed the beast. Yet, another guy used a draft inducer with a thermocouple and a switch to start it. Once it's running there is no smoke on either end. It did have a draft flap to feed the fire box hooked up to a thermocouple for after fire box temps on some kind of control device. The fire boxes were all steel filled with brick or masonry built or dropped in the floor. Massive storage in the water tanks, the ground and the concrete.

Water storage under a garage floor was the best one I've seen. You could store even more in your basement or crawl space. Those gassers just crank out massive amounts of high heat. Go for building one or at the least design your system from top notch parts with extra storage. Having a good mentor will help.
 

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I have considered it. But one thing I don’t have is time. Also, these new gasification stoves are all 409 stainless with refractory bottom. I could do all of that but the money and time invested just doesn’t work for me at the moment.

Joined the Hearth forum, they’ve pretty much talked me into a gasification over the conventional style. My main decision now is between Crown Royal stoves or Heat Master.
 

Lightning Performance

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I have considered it. But one thing I don’t have is time. Also, these new gasification stoves are all 409 stainless with refractory bottom. I could do all of that but the money and time invested just doesn’t work for me at the moment.

Joined the Hearth forum, they’ve pretty much talked me into a gasification over the conventional style. My main decision now is between Crown Royal stoves or Heat Master.
Your system will be bad ass!
 

SpaceBus

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I have considered it. But one thing I don’t have is time. Also, these new gasification stoves are all 409 stainless with refractory bottom. I could do all of that but the money and time invested just doesn’t work for me at the moment.

Joined the Hearth forum, they’ve pretty much talked me into a gasification over the conventional style. My main decision now is between Crown Royal stoves or Heat Master.
I would go Heat Master if it's in the budget, I think you will be very impressed.
 

Ryan Browne

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I have considered it. But one thing I don’t have is time. Also, these new gasification stoves are all 409 stainless with refractory bottom. I could do all of that but the money and time invested just doesn’t work for me at the moment.

Joined the Hearth forum, they’ve pretty much talked me into a gasification over the conventional style. My main decision now is between Crown Royal stoves or Heat Master.

Don't need much detail, but I'd love to hear the cliff notes of what made you decide the gasifier would work best.
 

Deets066

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Don't need much detail, but I'd love to hear the cliff notes of what made you decide the gasifier would work best.
It’s hard for me to get away from the conventional style after knowing the ease of use, and type of wood it can handle.
The gasser requires more attention, dryer wood, & little more cleaning. But I’m going to be heating a lot more now than I used to. So about 1/3 less wood is huge.
 
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