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Gasification VS conventional OWB’s

Deets066

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Past 11 years I’ve been running a Timber Ridge OWB. Well built, big firebox, no issues at all aside from damper solenoids.

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So, I have recently bought a new house and am looking at new gasification boilers. In particular the Crown Royal 7400. Seems like more maintenance and a little finicky how you load em.
The old stove didn’t give 2shits what or how you put it in. Any of you guys had a non gasification stove and then upgraded to one? Thoughts?
 

woodfarmer

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I bought a Garn, supposed to be the Cadillac of boilers.....but not exactly. I’ve had a few small issues with it that they keep updating. I like that it’s out in my shop and not outside. Wood has to be split and dry to get the proper gasification. Wood consumption is cut in half. The 900 gallons of water surrounding the fire box.
The few downsides are that I burn a hot fire to get the water up to temperature and then the fire goes out, so there is always relighting, once per 24hrs in the fall. 2 burns in 24 in winter and occasionally 3 when the temps get below 0*F.
There is only water in my system so when I go away the backup propane boiler is also now heating the boiler water as well.
 

SpaceBus

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As Angelo said, check out the Hearth.com forums, which is how I got sent here. You will learn more about wood heat than you probably wanted to know, but it's worth it to burn less wood and work less for your heat.
 

Johnmn

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@Deets066 I'd buy a heatmaster if I bought a gasser. I have a conventional heatmaster and it seems well built.
Lots of info on
outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com
 

Deets066

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@Deets066 I'd buy a heatmaster if I bought a gasser. I have a conventional heatmaster and it seems well built.
Lots of info on
outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com
I’m definitely looking at those too.
They look like a very similar build.
 

SpaceBus

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Drag the old one along with you to the new place. You'll be happier. Fuggin EPA has to jerk off all over everything....
Why would he want to use a boiler that needs more wood for less heat?
 

EvilRoySlade

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If I was doing from scratch it would be gasifier. Done right it’s way less wood but you do need something for backup to heat water when away, also 100% electric to keep water moving. Again minimal if planned correctly.
 

beaglebriar

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Why would he want to use a boiler that needs more wood for less heat?
I have a gasser in the garage and still use 10-12 cords of good seasoned hardwood per year. No different than several guys around here running conventional OWB's. I'm looking at tearing it down a for a rebuild again, 2nd time since new in 2008. I don't see the benefit but I'm sure there's better designs than what I have. Plus the smoke is rancid and smells like chit.

If I were able to go back in time I would choose a Harmon indoor boiler(no longer made). I do love having it in the garage aside from the fly ash that gets all over everything. Keeps the vehicles nice and toasty through winter.
 

SpaceBus

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I have a gasser in the garage and still use 10-12 cords of good seasoned hardwood per year. No different than several guys around here running conventional OWB's. I'm looking at tearing it down a for a rebuild again, 2nd time since new in 2008. I don't see the benefit but I'm sure there's better designs than what I have. Plus the smoke is rancid and smells like chit.

If I were able to go back in time I would choose a Harmon indoor boiler(no longer made). I do love having it in the garage aside from the fly ash that gets all over everything. Keeps the vehicles nice and toasty through winter.

How long is your wood cut and stacked before you burn it? I went from a conventional 70's wood stove to a 2015 reg EPA stove and reduced my wood by almost half. If you don't have seasoned wood, no type of EPA/modern stove will work. My cookstove even has bottom fed air but won't get a hot burn without wood with less than 15% water content. Gassification stoves of any type require dry wood to function properly.
 

Deets066

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How long is your wood cut and stacked before you burn it? I went from a conventional 70's wood stove to a 2015 reg EPA stove and reduced my wood by almost half. If you don't have seasoned wood, no type of EPA/modern stove will work. My cookstove even has bottom fed air but won't get a hot burn without wood with less than 15% water content. Gassification stoves of any type require dry wood to function properly.
This is part of my question, I don’t always have 2-3 years worth of wood worked up. I also don’t like the idea of filling the stove for 12 hour burns. Are the gassers that finicky or can I load for a 24 hour burn regardless of temp?
 

beaglebriar

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How long is your wood cut and stacked before you burn it? I went from a conventional 70's wood stove to a 2015 reg EPA stove and reduced my wood by almost half. If you don't have seasoned wood, no type of EPA/modern stove will work. My cookstove even has bottom fed air but won't get a hot burn without wood with less than 15% water content. Gassification stoves of any type require dry wood to function properly.
2 years minimum.

Fred Seton the designer of the oversized boat anchor in my garage says a little moisture in the wood actually doesn't hurt a thing. Since I burn large rounds the moisture content is gonna be higher than split wood. Like I said there may be better designs out there.
 
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