Funnest way to firewood big chunks?

[ElevatorGuy]

I love the 462 for noodling so I bet the 441 is equally as fun!

 

[davidwyby]

Do you guys sharpen any differently for noodling? I've noticed sometimes the chain cuts well close to the saw but I have a hard time getting it to bite/cut further out on a longer bar. Feels like I have to dog it harder than I should.

 

[Wilhelm]

I sharpen the same for bucking and noodling!
The trick is to noodle level to the grain and the chain will pull itself through the cut making long noodles.
For a good noodling performance You will want Your bar to stick out the other end of the round.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Agree with Wilhelm. And, that usually means the nose has to drop as well to set up the noodle-cutting action. So, rocking a little will be required. If done correctly, noodle cutting won't wear the bar out much faster than buck cutting across the grain.

I used to collect the noodles in grass sacks and save them for kindling. One day a horse rancher stopped by, saw what I was doing, and gave me $20 for three big bags of noodles. He said the horses loved them in the stable.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Always saving this work for saw break-in runs or tuning.

The 90cc or bigger saw always gets the nod.

A seven pin rim and off the reel chain or something set up for hardwood. Softwood chains put a lot of stress on the clutch and stuffs imo. Most times the spike drags so having a slide vs a spike helps. Turn up your oil pump to max. Running a 41 or 42" bar doubles your cut. Blocks between them clears the cut better. My built milling saws finish the big nasty chunks laying around with a 36" when not testing. Large Y's get the same treatment. I'm not spitting those.

Screw up one depth gauge and you will need to go find that cutter and shorten it. That's all I got.

 

[Bigmac]

Funnest way?

 

[drf256]

Funnest way?

They win for sure.

 

[davidwyby]

That might not go over well in the midst of the cabins at the bed n breakfast.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Grandpa used to fell big trees that way when chainsaws were in the embryonic stage. He was a dynamite wholesaler. The ground would shake. Most of the time, however, he used the dynamite to blow rocks buried in the ground apart or skyward.

 

[drf256]

Grandpa used to fell big trees that way when chainsaws were in the embryonic stage. He was a dynamite wholesaler. The ground would shake. Most of the time, however, he used the dynamite to blow rocks buried in the ground apart or skyward.

Probably a pretty safe way to do them. You could get way the hell outa the way.

The Nobel committee would surely thank us for the income.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Funnest way?

Even more funner if you do a few and fuse them together...

 

[davidwyby]

It was kinda fun. I’m beat. Mostly 2166 28”, little 3120 42”. maybe should have swapped bars and used the 395.

 

[jakethesnake]

Funnest way?

The music in the background made it even better

 

[davidwyby]

Always saving this work for saw break-in runs or tuning.

The 90cc or bigger saw always gets the nod.

A seven pin rim and off the reel chain or something set up for hardwood. Softwood chains put a lot of stress on the clutch and stuffs imo. Most times the spike drags so having a slide vs a spike helps. Turn up your oil pump to max. Running a 41 or 42" bar doubles your cut. Blocks between them clears the cut better. My built milling saws finish the big nasty chunks laying around with a 36" when not testing. Large Y's get the same treatment. I'm not spitting those.

Screw up one depth gauge and you will need to go find that cutter and shorten it. That's all I got.

I wish I had come back and refreshed on your destructions before I went out. Started out with full comp 28”, wasn’t biting and got dull. Didn’t want to sharpen all those cutters in the field so I switched to skip I got from @Benwa up in softwood land. Dummy head me, it was pretty grabby noodling dry oak...

What seemed to work at least to start was dropping in bar tip down almost 45*. Once horizontal, sometimes it would just slam to a stop like I’d hit the brake or a big spike in the wood. Pull it out and the cut would be full of noodles but not the clutch cover or choked between the bar n chain. I think it was what you’re saying about rakers too far down. Difficult to modulate pressure to keep it cutting but not grab.

I also think there might be something funky with these tsu bars...had similar funkiness with the 24” noodling on the 2159 once.

I may go back with the 395 and a new 24@ chain on a good std bar and educate mineself....or confirm what I already been told!

 

[Lightning Performance]

I wish I had come back and refreshed on your destructions before I went out. Started out with full comp 28”, wasn’t biting and got dull. Didn’t want to sharpen all those cutters in the field so I switched to skip I got from @Benwa up in softwood land. Dummy head me, it was pretty grabby noodling dry oak...

What seemed to work at least to start was dropping in bar tip down almost 45*. Sometimes it would just slam to a stop like I’d hit the brake or a big spike in the wood. Pull it out and the cut would be full of noodles but not the clutch cover or choked between the bar n chain. I think it was what you’re saying about rakers too far down. Difficult to modulate pressure to keep it cutting but not grab.

I also think there might be something funky with these tsu bars...had similar funkiness with the 24” noodling on the 2159 once.

I may go back with the 395 and a new 24@ chain on a good std bar and educate mineself....or confirm what I already been told!

Possibly

 

[Basher]

Power drill and auger bit, electric blasting caps makes quick work of it.

 

[davidwyby]

 

[Mastermind]

That is bad ass.

 

[davidwyby]

That is bad ass.

No more work.

I could build that easily. But I ain’t got a ‘hoe. So maybe a forklift mounted splitter

 

[Stihl036]

That was fun!