Frustrated 026

[Jags]

Was having problems with idle after warmup. The saw is 24 yes old but not used alot of hours. Purchased vac/pressure pump. Blocked intake at carb flange and exhaust. Tested. Could see the needle move and drop. Then replaced crank seals. Now I can't get anything on the pump. Is there any reason you can't go through the pulse line where the carb connects? Thanks for any help

 

[hacskaroly]

Welcome to the forum!! I don't see why you can't pressure through the impulse port. Do you have a decomp? If so did it happen to get pressed? If you can, can you post an image of how you have the intake and exhaust blocked? One thing you can do is spray down the mating surfaces of the cylinder, oil seals, intake, exhaust, decomp and spark plug hole with soapy water and re-pressure, where you get bubbles, will be your issue.

 

[Jags]

I understand. Was able to do before seal replacement. I used gasket material with a metal core for block off. Spacer tube's for carb studs. No decompression. Piston is at TDC. Feels like the pump wants to work but no reading. Does the pulse line ever get blocked?

 

[hacskaroly]

Does the pulse line ever get blocked?

It is possible, but since it is a straight shot into the cylinder, you should be able to use a pipe cleaner or small carb brush to run through and clear anything (or confirm that there isn't anything blocking).

 

[Jags]

That's a idea!! I will try that. I'll have to get some or find something close. I will let ya know the result. Thx.

 

[Jags]

Ok, I ended up taking the handle off. The pulse line was clear. After many soap and water checks discovered it was the block on the exhaust. Remade a block plate. All checked good. Happy at this point. Started to reassemble and got to the flywheel and then the thread on the crank broke. Now I'm bummed. SOB... Not sure what to do at this point.

 

[hacskaroly]

Started to reassemble and got to the flywheel and then the thread on the crank broke

That sucks!! Here is an aftermarket option. I have bought a bunch of stuff from this site and have been very happy with what I have gotten. Its not OEM, but it can get your saw going again!



Link to site page: 026 Crankshaft

Edit: If you go this route, replace the bearings too while you are at it.

 

[Jags]

Thanks for the info. I saw at hl supply is 80 bucks but that's a aftermarket as well. Any suggestions on which aftermarket? I'm sure there all made in China. Woops did I say that?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Thanks for the info. I saw at hl supply is 80 bucks but that's a aftermarket as well. Any suggestions on which aftermarket? I'm sure there all made in China. Woops did I say that?

How did you manage to snap the threads off? I’m sure I have a used oem 026 crank here. I see by your profile your in mn so am so will probably be pretty easy to get you a used crank. I’m north of Duluth

 

[hacskaroly]

Any suggestions on which aftermarket?

I have bought from both HL and Duke's and am happy with what I have gotten from both sites, both are sponsors of this forum. I know with Duke's, if you use the code "Sawsalvage10" at check out, you get 10% off. I think you automatically get 10% off if it is your first order with them.

 

[Jags]

Thanks guys. Now the burning questions. 1. Is used oem better or as good as new aftermarket? 2. What is the torque for the flywheel. 3. What is the torque for the case halfs?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Thanks guys. Now the burning questions. 1. Is used oem better or as good as new aftermarket? 2. What is the torque for the flywheel. 3. What is the torque for the case halfs?

I don’t know off the top of my head but should have the 026 manual in the shop. I just make sure taper or clean and snug it up good is all. Never had any problems. Also saws lot older than 24 years old unless it’s a ms 260. But you said no decompression ect so probably over 30.

 

[hacskaroly]

1. Is used oem better or as good as new aftermarket?

If you can get a good used OEM, I would use that over new aftermarket. As for torque, I go tight and then just a little more, but not too much more, don't want to snap anything off

 

[Jags]

Yeah, sounds right. Snapping cranks is NOT cool. Lol on the on the comment. Stab what are you looking to get? Probably have to ship it and also if you could find the torque specs that would be fantastic

 

[Basher]

Thanks guys. Now the burning questions. 1. Is used oem better or as good as new aftermarket? 2. What is the torque for the flywheel. 3. What is the torque for the case halfs?

flywheel 25 - 26 ft lbs, case bolts 6.6 - 8 ft lbs.

 

[Jags]

Thanks basher. I will right that down. I don't believe I put more than that on the flywheel.

 

[Mad Professor]

Thanks basher. I will right that down. I don't believe I put more than that on the flywheel.

Could it have got damaged when removing the flywheel?

 

[Jags]

I bought it. I used a puller for that

 

[Jags]

Sorry dought it

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I bought it. I used a puller for that

You buy the proper puller? Or grab the outside of flywheel with regular jaw puller. The stihls have two sizes of internal threads the puller threads into and then a pusher bolt runs against crank to pop it.