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Frankinoly

countryhog

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One if the frankinolys i built resists tuning. Replaced seals. Still resists.
On the premise that its sucking air i took the jug off. So its either the gasketless joint between jug and case or its a leak between the carb header block and the jug.
When rebuilt i deleted gasket. Done that on several other saws with no problems. I saw what could have been a break in the yamabond; not sure but could be. So i either try gasketless again or make a gasket from coke can. If i use coke can gasket do i need to use yamabond or can i do it dry?
Inspected the header block, couldnt see any cracks but an edge had chipped. When compared to the carb gasket it may have been leaking there. Went ahead and made new larger gasket that should cover it. Btw, have another header block but can see hairlinecrack from outside to the inside; would that cause lean condition if i used it?
Dont have pressure/vacuum tester which is why i havent tested it. Would have been a lot easier and more exact but i gotta use what i got or dont use what i dont got.
Other than this issue and wear marks this is a solid saw. Thanks for any thoughts and recommendations
 

trooney

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I guess its a saw made of different parts from saws of the same family. I personally would get a header block that is perfect, cant cost that much and is going to save you headaches down the road. If you use a coke can gasket, I'd put sealant on both sides to prevent leaks, but if it got enough squish to run it without it, Since you've got it off get the old sealant off and reseal it. Just because you put new seals in it doesnt necessarily mean they are good. In the absence of a p&v tester, I'd bring it to somebody who has one to eliminate air leak or verify air leak. My 2 cents..
 

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have you tried a different carb?

get a different carb, maybe a P&V tester such as a mitivac...

define "resists tuning" ? is rpm's going up and up and up at wide open throttle? boggy?
 

countryhog

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have you tried a different carb?

get a different carb, maybe a P&V tester such as a mitivac...

define "resists tuning" ? is rpm's going up and up and up at wide open throttle? boggy?
Low end doesnt want to settle in to good idle. Cuts good though. Rom not out of control at wot and not boggy
 
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countryhog

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I guess its a saw made of different parts from saws of the same family. I personally would get a header block that is perfect, cant cost that much and is going to save you headaches down the road. If you use a coke can gasket, I'd put sealant on both sides to prevent leaks, but if it got enough squish to run it without it, Since you've got it off get the old sealant off and reseal it. Just because you put new seals in it doesnt necessarily mean they are good. In the absence of a p&v tester, I'd bring it to somebody who has one to eliminate air leak or verify air leak. My 2 cents..
Unfortunately the saw is over 30 years old so header block is pretty much unobtanium. Could poosibly order from oleo mac in italy but that would cost much more than its worth to me. Its a olympyk 254 made from 3 different carcasses
I truly do need to get a pv tester fer sure. Thanks for yer two cents
 

Mattyo

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I appreciate your enthusiasm to get such a piece running ...but the sheer fact that parts are unavailable would make me shy away from such a model...

But that's just me
 

Mattyo

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I mostly fool with trashed saws, but the saws I keep for myself are ones I can get parts for... just my personal policy.

Old saws have their problems... and benefits too, but their issues can be near impossible to overcome, especially without test equipment.

best of luck gettin her done :)
 

Dub11

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Anyway you can spray some carb cleaner around the intake track while running? It can help you find a leak.
 

67L36Driver

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I loves me a 264. I got three.[emoji15]
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Best purchased as a complete saw only needing fuel system service. And, maybe a spur drum.
 
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