Flywheel Removal Problem

[AVB]

I got a small problem on my hands here. I need to remove the flywheel on a Husqvarna 353. The problem is that the customer used JB Weld to put it on because he sheared the flywheel key. It probably a lost cause as the compression is down to 105 psi but I need if it is an ignition timing problem alone or a combination of problems.

I'm little leary of hitting the flywheel knocker too hard and damaging something else. Should I try a little heat to see if I can soften the JB weld? If I can get the flywheel I can then install a used one. I just don't know how close the ignition is but seems to firing late.

 

[Frank bierce]

Seems to me, heat may be your best bet here.

 

[e.fisher26]

Somthing hotter then propane maybe..



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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
Husqvarna 36

 

[huskihl]

Heat will help, but it'll take quite a bit. Probably have to hit 500° before it softens the jb weld. But the expansion might pop it before then

 

[Mattyo]

PB Blaster and heat to the flywheel. use the knocker if ya got it...hold the whole saw in the air my the flywheel and whack the knocker.

 

[Mattyo]

The file a keyway in the flywheel . ..and insert a diy copper key made out of romex.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

jb doesn't bond well to hardened steel with a mirror finish so give it a good whack and make sure you have some good pressure applied to the backside with a flathead or pry bar.

 

[AVB]

Tnx, for the ideas.

First I do have a custom made Stainless steel flywheel knocker, plenty heat available ace/ox torch at hand. I just never ran into flywheel that was JB before though I did run into a push that carburetor was glued together with this junk. Forgive me as that just my personal opinion of JB Weld. I firm believer in doing right the first time as usually cost less in the long run.

I went with trying Jim's method first as I had a good pry bar at hand along a 2 lb brass hammer. I got the fly to break loose. Good thing it never ran that JB junk was down on the crankcase seal. As I expected the timing was off by two key widths to the left when looking from the outside (nut side). Customer has already screwed up the keyway to a point that replacement is the only route to go. It like taking one step and two back. Well at there are few used ones on Fleabay.

But first I got to put an estimate together that include a carburetor rebuild too and see if the customer wants go this route.

Again tnx for the tips.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Ignition timing will not effect the compression reading

105psi is horrible.

Do you plan on a complete rebuild?
Crank
Piston
Rings
Seals
Bearings etc....

You said yourself, do it right the first time

 

[AVB]

I will need find out from the customer if he willing. As you know the customer is the boss and decision maker. If was mine yes I do a complete rebuilt the saw looks good paint and plastic wise. I agree 105 is horrible as most time saws here will not even start when down in this range. I am putting togther a rebuild quote but fairly certain the customer not going want to do this...Just got that impression yesterday.

 

[Mattyo]

That clutch side seal bearint is $40 fyi...

If you are going to do it up its going to add up fast . ...glad the flywheel is off!

 

[pro94lt]

If you hit it, put the nut on just below flush. it will protect the threads if you miss. cheaper to replace a nut than repair the crank threads...

 

[AVB]

If you hit it, put the nut on just below flush. it will protect the threads if you miss. cheaper to replace a nut than repair the crank threads...

I had a knocker specially made for doing this last year. Much like the Stihl version except to my specs. Gives as much threads as I can get with one turn out from seated. Also keeps me from hitting the fins.

 

[pro94lt]

Well that should have you covered