ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

[av8or3]

. Unless of course it was a nice Sachs-Dolmar 112 Silver Star.

I can fix you up!

 

[STOVE]

Here’s a dumb question. The echo decomp plug comes with 4 copper washers. Am I replacing that washer every so often or only if I see a leak?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Here’s a dumb question. The echo decomp plug comes with 4 copper washers. Am I replacing that washer every so often or only if I see a leak?

I honestly don’t think a slight weep would make any difference really not that it will probably leak anyway. But if worried I bet a little dab of high temp loctite would seal the threads. Saws are honestly so air tight and some are more than others, small constant air leaks that don’t change can be tuned out and actually won’t affect anything. Some saws have spots they leak as part of the design it’s not that they were designed to leak but the engineer had a feature they wanted that caused a small constant leak that could be tuned out so it actually isn’t a completely air tight case though completely fine. Don’t remember the exact models but I believe it was a few huskies for sure and maybe even a Stihl that won’t hold vacuum 100% because of design.

 

[EFSM]

Here’s a dumb question. The echo decomp plug comes with 4 copper washers. Am I replacing that washer every so often or only if I see a leak?

That is because it is considered a service tool (for plugging valves during P/V tests). I have never seen an issue with an Echo decomp valve and would not use a plug.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I don't even think about the decomp on my Echoes, including the ported one.

 

[heimannm]

I am in need of a good IPL for a QV8000.



While disassembling this saw, I discovered two pieces on the bench that mysteriously appeared. If anyone has an idea where these came from I welcome your input.



Mark

 

[old 040]

I am in need of a good IPL for a QV8000.

View attachment 479195

While disassembling this saw, I discovered two pieces on the bench that mysteriously appeared. If anyone has an idea where these came from I welcome your input.

View attachment 479196

Mark

PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

We are committed to providing you with the largest selection of OEM parts from the best brands, the best diagrams and part search tools anywhere.

www.partstree.com

 

[ray benson]

I am in need of a good IPL for a QV8000.

View attachment 479195

While disassembling this saw, I discovered two pieces on the bench that mysteriously appeared. If anyone has an idea where these came from I welcome your input.

View attachment 479196

Mark

Got it about a year ago.

 

[heimannm]

Ray is the greatest of all times!

Thanks Old 040 as well.

I have already been able to find that bumper in the photo above on the IPL so I have some idea where it goes. Now I have to figure out where that spring came from.

Mark

 

[EFSM]

It looks like that spring could be from an oiler system, but I don’t remember what those oilers look like. Unless it’s from a throttle lock.

 

[heimannm]

I have a local guy volunteering in the shop these days, he searched through the IPL and found 18 springs, but all were accounted for in the saw...

Mark

 

[echo510s]

Here’s my personal top handle.

 

[heimannm]

I believe I found the spot for that spring, not shown on the IPL but the only place I could come up with.



Putting the saw back together was a lot easier that taking it apart since I could actually see where things were supposed to go. Before being fit with a 32" bar for cutting wood it had obviously been used as a fire/rescue/vent saw and no one ever bothered to clean it along the way. There were a number of odd/missing/just plain wrong screws used but I was able to find enough correct ones to finish it off.

One day next week when the Red Kote fully cures I will fuel it up and verify that everything works as it should. Bench testing showed both the manual and automatic oilers working, throttle, choke, throttle latch all function as they should. I did pressure and vacuum test and it passed, piston looks almost new.

Mark

 

[EFSM]

I believe I found the spot for that spring, not shown on the IPL but the only place I could come up with.

View attachment 479333

Putting the saw back together was a lot easier that taking it apart since I could actually see where things were supposed to go. Before being fit with a 32" bar for cutting wood it had obviously been used as a fire/rescue/vent saw and no one ever bothered to clean it along the way. There were a number of odd/missing/just plain wrong screws used but I was able to find enough correct ones to finish it off.

One day next week when the Red Kote fully cures I will fuel it up and verify that everything works as it should. Bench testing showed both the manual and automatic oilers working, throttle, choke, throttle latch all function as they should. I did pressure and vacuum test and it passed, piston looks almost new.

Mark

I feel stupid for not catching that. I just worked on a QV 8000 that someone sent out from PA for me to put on a new rear handle/tank (casualty of a skid loader) and give it some much overdue TLC. Whoever had installed the carburetor last had failed to fit the needles into the grommet and it was sucking dirt badly there. He was using it on a tree care crew and claimed it was his favorite saw.

 

[FergusonTO35]

So, dumb question time. I was cutting with my CS-303T and CS-400 today, temperature was 28 F. Both of them started just fine, but acted really lean as soon as they warmed up. The 303 kept dying in the cut, the 400 wasn't much better. Both wanted to idle high too. Last time I ran these saws it was around 75 and both ran great. I haven't changed anything on them since then, fuel tanks full and I didn't see anything obvious amiss. I don't remember any of my saws ever acting different due to cold, but I'm always willing to learn something new. Any suggestions here?

 

[Duane(Pa)]

So, dumb question time. I was cutting with my CS-303T and CS-400 today, temperature was 28 F. Both of them started just fine, but acted really lean as soon as they warmed up. The 303 kept dying in the cut, the 400 wasn't much better. Both wanted to idle high too. Last time I ran these saws it was around 75 and both ran great. I haven't changed anything on them since then, fuel tanks full and I didn't see anything obvious amiss. I don't remember any of my saws ever acting different due to cold, but I'm always willing to learn something new. Any suggestions here?

Cold air is denser, holds more oxygen molecules. That means more fuel is needed to have the correct tune. I would turn the high screw ccw about 1/4 turn and see if things normalize. Might need to fatten the low jet too if it's idling high... It may be fat in warm weather, but that is not as dangerous as a lean condition.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do!

 

[EFSM]

So, dumb question time. I was cutting with my CS-303T and CS-400 today, temperature was 28 F. Both of them started just fine, but acted really lean as soon as they warmed up. The 303 kept dying in the cut, the 400 wasn't much better. Both wanted to idle high too. Last time I ran these saws it was around 75 and both ran great. I haven't changed anything on them since then, fuel tanks full and I didn't see anything obvious amiss. I don't remember any of my saws ever acting different due to cold, but I'm always willing to learn something new. Any suggestions here?

How old is the fuel?

 

[FergusonTO35]

Maybe five months. All my OPE fuel gets a full ounce of stabilizer per gallon and is always stored in a sealed can.

 

[EFSM]

Maybe five months. All my OPE fuel gets a full ounce of stabilizer per gallon and is always stored in a sealed can.

So in other words, it wasn’t winter blend.
Were the saws also 28* when you tried using them, or had they been somewhere climate controlled?