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Echo 2511T fuel tank repair

4CornersPuddle

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I have a crack and fuel leak at the base of the support post for the brake flag on one of my 2511s. The saw was dropped from "way up there" resulting in several damages. It is the flywheel side. Replacing the entire tank is way down on the list for me.
A slight bit of flexing can open the 3/8" long curved crack maybe 1/32".How might I go about sealing this? What adhesive might seep in there and stand up to contact with fuel and also resist the small bit of side pressure that setting the chain brake requires? Some degree of runniness is necessary; the viscosity of typical epoxys would be too great.
Thanks for your help.
 

singinwoodwackr

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I have a crack and fuel leak at the base of the support post for the brake flag on one of my 2511s. The saw was dropped from "way up there" resulting in several damages. It is the flywheel side. Replacing the entire tank is way down on the list for me.
A slight bit of flexing can open the 3/8" long curved crack maybe 1/32".How might I go about sealing this? What adhesive might seep in there and stand up to contact with fuel and also resist the small bit of side pressure that setting the chain brake requires? Some degree of runniness is necessary; the viscosity of typical epoxys would be too great.
Thanks for your help.
Pics?
 

EFSM

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I have a crack and fuel leak at the base of the support post for the brake flag on one of my 2511s. The saw was dropped from "way up there" resulting in several damages. It is the flywheel side. Replacing the entire tank is way down on the list for me.
A slight bit of flexing can open the 3/8" long curved crack maybe 1/32".How might I go about sealing this? What adhesive might seep in there and stand up to contact with fuel and also resist the small bit of side pressure that setting the chain brake requires? Some degree of runniness is necessary; the viscosity of typical epoxys would be too great.
Thanks for your help.
Use the tip of a solder gun to plastic weld it after applying a vacuum to the tank.
How much do you use the chain brake?
 

dangerousatom

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Super glue it shut clean off any excess glue when dry and then get the same plastic to drip seal/patch it.
What this is, is basically lighting on fire the plastic and letting it drip onto the crack. Do not touch it to the tank while dripping or you will get strings of plastic or worse the plastic of the tank will melt from too much heat. The plastic will melt into the surface of the saw and seal But it has to be the same plastic as the tank.
And OBVIOUSLY drain the tank and give it a swish out cleaning with denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol & time to air out before sealing.
 

4CornersPuddle

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Thanks for the replies. I'd considered the superglue fix and melting the plastic. I wasn't sure of the techniques. I'll combine the glueing with dripping some molten plastic onto the area.
In my saw boneyard I've got plenty of Stihl plastics, Husqy pieces, Dolmar chunks, Shindawa stuff, but no Echo parts. Any guesses if anyof these could be more compatible than others?
I very often use the brake on a climbing saw when in a tree, and rarely on a ground saw.
BTW dangerousatom, I grew up in Berks County Pa., near Boyertown. That was back in the 50s and 60s.
 

Ketchup

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Changing the tank assembly takes a bit over an hour. Don’t waste your time trying to weld the tank. It will just end up cracked again IF you manage to get it sealed, which is harder than you think. And you’ll spend nearly as much time welding it as replacing it.
 

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Changing the tank assembly takes a bit over an hour. Don’t waste your time trying to weld the tank. It will just end up cracked again IF you manage to get it sealed, which is harder than you think. And you’ll spend nearly as much time welding it as replacing it.
Those saws are specifically designed with tank replacement in mind.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I'd considered the superglue fix and melting the plastic. I wasn't sure of the techniques. I'll combine the glueing with dripping some molten plastic onto the area.
In my saw boneyard I've got plenty of Stihl plastics, Husqy pieces, Dolmar chunks, Shindawa stuff, but no Echo parts. Any guesses if anyof these could be more compatible than others?
I very often use the brake on a climbing saw when in a tree, and rarely on a ground saw.
BTW dangerousatom, I grew up in Berks County Pa., near Boyertown. That was back in the 50s and 60s.
My dads family comes from near Myerstown.
 

singinwoodwackr

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Changing the tank assembly takes a bit over an hour. Don’t waste your time trying to weld the tank. It will just end up cracked again IF you manage to get it sealed, which is harder than you think. And you’ll spend nearly as much time welding it as replacing it.
You take all the fun out of trying, lol
 

DillonBuck

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I’d superglue. Then roughly scuff the outside.
Use any good plastic friendly epoxy in a thin layer, and fiberglass cloth. Several layers of each, a smooth layer of epoxy on the outside to seal it. It’ll seal, and be strong.
 

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This thread has a lot of great Ideas/procedures to choose and or combine when a tank needs repaired. I have 2 Jonsered tanks needing help. One is a 2186 by a boss for a handle mount. I REALLY like the vacuum to pull the filler/bonding "STUFF" into the crack (Post #3) and Denatured alcohol rinse also caught my eye (post #5).
The "Crazy/Super glue" and "Fuel Resistance" has a lingering memory some where and I THINK have read Resistant but not PROOF. It might have been in a thread pertaining to gasket sealants. Can anyone clarify to settle my mind (as if that is a possibility) The tank boss for the handle AV mount will be a VERY stressful area. This is a very informative thread. Thanks to everybody.
 

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I’d superglue. Then roughly scuff the outside.
Use any good plastic friendly epoxy in a thin layer, and fiberglass cloth. Several layers of each, a smooth layer of epoxy on the outside to seal it. It’ll seal, and be strong.
Using the Super Glue will seal the tank crack and protect the epoxy from the tank side of crack. Do you or anyone have an epoxy preference to suggest?
 

dangerousatom

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Any epoxy that is fuel safe, but a tank sealer epoxy is best...the kind you put in a tank that has a leak/hole and roll the tank around for full coverage.. Usually you can find the mixing ratio or figure it out via the oz/CC on the two part bottles. Id us a syringe for measuring as you will need only a few CC.. Also If it were me I think Id integrate a bit of metal screen or small wire mesh for reinforcing in between 2 coats of epoxy. As always with epoxy ruff the surface and clean thoroughly with Alcohol.
 

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Any epoxy that is fuel safe, but a tank sealer epoxy is best...the kind you put in a tank that has a leak/hole and roll the tank around for full coverage.. Usually you can find the mixing ratio or figure it out via the oz/CC on the two part bottles. Id us a syringe for measuring as you will need only a few CC.. Also If it were me I think Id integrate a bit of metal screen or small wire mesh for reinforcing in between 2 coats of epoxy. As always with epoxy ruff the surface and clean thoroughly with Alcohol.
Will RED KOTE adhere to plastic? I never thought of using it. If so do you think it would stick to the inside as a small patch area like put in a small amount and position the tank so the patch area is coated then let it dry/cure.. I'll need to look if this is possible or if the fill hole spoils my idea.
 

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Will RED KOTE adhere to plastic? I never thought of using it. If so do you think it would stick to the inside as a small patch area like put in a small amount and position the tank so the patch area is coated then let it dry/cure.. I'll need to look if this is possible or if the fill hole spoils my idea.
I don’t think so. There are better ways to fix plastic tanks.
 

Junk Meister

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I don’t think so. There are better ways to fix plastic tanks.
I agree. I was looking on the net about Red Kote and so many places said metal tanks - rust - pinholes . Nobody suggested plastic. My brother has a plastic welder for car bumpers he hasn't used for years. I might try it along with some of the suggestions above. May be a while. The tank isn't high on the list for now.
 

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Red Kote specifically says not for plastic tanks. I use some UHMW PE plugs on tanks from time to time and the Red Kote peals off of them pretty easily.

"Warnings: Red-Kote is only for use lining the inside of fuel tanks containing gasoline or diesel fuel. Do not use with tanks larger than 50 gallons. Do not use with biodiesel fuel. Do not use with racing fuels unless you have discussed your particular mixture with our chemist to find out if it will work. Do not use with water/water-based substances, especially not with potable water. Red-Kote cannot be sprayed, even after thinning. Do not use Red-Kote on fiber-glass or any plastic."

Mark
 

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Red Kote specifically says not for plastic tanks. I use some UHMW PE plugs on tanks from time to time and the Red Kote peals off of them pretty easily.

"Warnings: Red-Kote is only for use lining the inside of fuel tanks containing gasoline or diesel fuel. Do not use with tanks larger than 50 gallons. Do not use with biodiesel fuel. Do not use with racing fuels unless you have discussed your particular mixture with our chemist to find out if it will work. Do not use with water/water-based substances, especially not with potable water. Red-Kote cannot be sprayed, even after thinning. Do not use Red-Kote on fiber-glass or any plastic."

Mark
Thank You I didn't (Should Have) read the can Label. I was going to check NAPA for a good epoxy. Any ideas from the expert?
 
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