Dolmar 64xx/73xx/79xx series, smurfs and solo 665/675/681 thread

[dahmer]

It's a straight shot down into the carb, it has to make a turn but it's just as smooth as the stock filter setup. I think it's internet rumor personally.

If you heard it on the Internet it has to be true!

 

[mettee]

Vs

The inlet to the carb is .900" on either elbow, thus that will be the flow limiting factor. And the HD elbow is a much much better transition. Intake performance is all about velocity. Turbulence is not good for metering either.

The two bumps in the low filter set up are abrupt and the back wall is a 45 degree slope.

The HD elbow is smooth and the two bumps for the screws are minor.

 

[AlfA01]

I got curious after reading a couple of posts here and was thinking of some stuff I had that may work to 'bolt' a K&N to the HD assy.

These are sanitary fittings I bought when I was building my moonshine still and for beer brewing equipment.

They feel nice and firm and don't move once positioned on the HD flange. They are too thick to fasten the filter clamps, but I think by making a relief grind in the conical part of the flange would allow the clamps to be secured.

These are SS and are 1.75" where the filter would attach. And, they would give over 1/2" of clamping space where the filter would grab on.

Haven't worked out how to maximize velocity yet. A filter of 2.25" tall is ideal for this particular piece.

 

[mettee]

I will be having these made if we are all interested, I can do a batch, if we all can agree on a price I will put it in motion.

Not looking to make money on these I will be glad to make this to give back to the community.

Im guessing 22-25 bucks shipped but dont quote me.

 

[mettee]

I got curious after reading a couple of posts here and was thinking of some stuff I had that may work to 'bolt' a K&N to the HD assy.

These are sanitary fittings I bought when I was building my moonshine still and for beer brewing equipment.

They feel nice and firm and don't move once positioned on the HD flange. They are too thick to fasten the filter clamps, but I think by making a relief grind in the conical part of the flange would allow the clamps to be secured.

These are SS and are 1.75" where the filter would attach. And, they would give over 1/2" of clamping space where the filter would grab on.

Haven't worked out how to maximize velocity yet. A filter of 2.25" tall is ideal for this particular piece.



View attachment 141184 View attachment 141185 View attachment 141187 View attachment 141193 View attachment 141195

You could use that piece, use some epoxy to form a velocity stack. As long as the filter fits. The problem is getting it under the cover.

 

[AlfA01]

You could use that piece, use some epoxy to form a velocity stack. As long as the filter fits. The problem is getting it under the cover.

We've got a ton of scooter shops around, so I'm gonna go and dig around and see what I turn up.

 

[AlfA01]

I got these gems in the mail today from my forwarding company. Thanks @dustinwilt68

Time to make the little 630's nards drop.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Np glad they made it there safe!

 

[AlfA01]

Well, they are both 7910's now...


.

 

[RI Chevy]

Nice. Looks like one is a 7910 XD. lol.

 

[TreeLife]

Nice. One is a 7910 XD. lol.

Lol Jeff...its like you know you want one too!

 

[RI Chevy]

Yessir

 

[TreeLife]

Yessir

They really are excellent to use. When I get another I can send it to you to spend some real time with one if you would like

 

[RI Chevy]

I may have one hy then! [emoji54]

Thank you for the offer. I may have to take a trip out to see you.
You can show me how to fall trees correctly. LOL

 

[TreeLife]

I may have one hy then! [emoji54]

Thank you for the offer. I may have to take a trip out to see you.
You can show me how to fall trees correctly. LOL

I think by now you can probably dump trees pretty well, Jeff

 

[huskyboy]

I posted this in the oil pump mods thread but thought it was fitting to post it here for those interested in doing a oiler mod. The oiler is very easy to disassemble (the end screws off) and steepen the angle on the ramp (the end of the long middle part with gear splines on it). Only steepen the low part, don’t touch the high side. The goal is to lengthen the stroke of the oiler. I steepened it by about .010. A dremel cutoff wheel or sandpaper on a flat surface works well. Make sure there are no burrs before you reassemble it. I am testing it out today and will report back. Seems to soak the bar like a husky now after a few piss revs.

 

[huskyboy]

I also installed the newer updated green oil line that goes behind the pump and put 3 bond 1184 sealant I had handy on all the fittings, especially the one that goes into the tank as that one tends to weep. Well see how it does now as before it leaked a little oil sitting. Here’s some interesting info I dug up online...

 

[mettee]

Well I started the work on my 7910 cylinder. I'll do the exhaust side next.

The stock squish is .025, what do yall think, will that work without cutting the band or is it better to uniform the band and take that ridge out?

 

[huskyboy]

Well I started the work on my 7910 cylinder. I'll do the exhaust side next.

The stock squish is .025, what do yall think, will that work without cutting the band or is it better to uniform the band and take that ridge out?

I used this to tighten the squish on mine. Reinforced it with some 518. 5$ at Napa for a small roll that will do many saws.

 

[huskyboy]

The lowers are slightly miss-matched to the base on the exhaust side. You’ll see the imprint the gasket left that tells you how far to grind. It’s not a lot of material. Just nipped the corners to smooth the transition. I feel it makes a difference. I can’t take credit for this, learned it in Randy’s and Carl’s latest threads on porting these saws.